So I pulled the forks off and took them to the local bike shop to have seals and fresh oil put in. I realize now I made some a mistake when I didn't discuss in detail what I wanted as far as oil goes, I assumed they would defer to the manual. Anyway when I got home and looked over my receipt I saw that they had put in 10w oil. I am not a suspension guy but I knew this a stiffer oil than I had seen recommended in the manual but I figured I would be able to compensate by backing down the compression and rebound damping. With the damping adjusters wide open I can't get the forks to move more than about 3/4 of an inch when I lock the front brake bounce down on the front end and it feels like it is dead solid when it hits that point. Now bear in mind I cross the scales at about a deuce and a quarter so when I romp down on ya ya know you been romped down on. So what my question is, would the 10w oil alone cause this or is it more likely that they have put to much oil in them and would to much oil cause the forks to lock up like this?
Suspension question- forks
- Thread starter ronn954
- Start date
Way too much oil may cause the forks might cause the forks to stop compressing
As far as the preload goes I didn't mess with it, I have about four and a half lines showing on the preload adjusters. I have only had the bike for a couple of weeks and it has been scattered around the garage for most of that time. As for the compression and rebound dampers I backed them out (counter clock wise) all of the way. I will look at the manual again but I believe that is the right direction to lessen the damping.
Preload won't change the stiffness of the fork it will only change the where the fork stops in it's travel.
ProMechA Motorcycle Sag and Preload
Motorcycle Sag, Preload, Rebound,Springs, Damping, How and Why
www.promecha.com.au
I will give it a try.
What do you mean by air gap? Does that pertain to the oil level?
Backed off the preload, still the same result. Very little travel when bouncing and hard lock up.
Cantab
Registered
There is a measurement from the top of the oil level to the top of the tube.
Berlin Germany
Registered
@ronn954
read the manual
and sorry what gen do you have? 1or 2 ?
the manuals differ in case of forks a bit and shouldn´t be mixed or so.
the gen1 e.g. want a 2.5-5 W (for usual weigths) and NO 10W oil as the manual say if i remember corr.
if you got a 350 pounds body weigth 10W might fit
is your "shop" a suzuki one or a "free" one and if free do they have the to your busa fitting manual available?
if they worked at ur fork without the manual they are fu..ing damn stupids .
my strong recom. was
the heck do the job yourself with the right viscosity of the oil.
learn the job
because the oil needs to be replaced every 4th year or after 15 000 mi !
later it is overaged / bad
it will smell not nice up to it stinks and got dark like black ink
- basta -
so
get the manual
get the special fork tools as described at my homepage
1. disasssembling
2. adjust the fork oil level
3. eventually you rebuild my so called 3rd hand what makes the job so much more easy if you´re alone in the workshop
see the metric drawing there and click the video link at the end of page - ok in german but the movie alone will tell you a lot.
read the manual
and sorry what gen do you have? 1or 2 ?
the manuals differ in case of forks a bit and shouldn´t be mixed or so.
the gen1 e.g. want a 2.5-5 W (for usual weigths) and NO 10W oil as the manual say if i remember corr.
if you got a 350 pounds body weigth 10W might fit
is your "shop" a suzuki one or a "free" one and if free do they have the to your busa fitting manual available?
if they worked at ur fork without the manual they are fu..ing damn stupids .
my strong recom. was
the heck do the job yourself with the right viscosity of the oil.
learn the job
because the oil needs to be replaced every 4th year or after 15 000 mi !
later it is overaged / bad
it will smell not nice up to it stinks and got dark like black ink
- basta -
so
get the manual
get the special fork tools as described at my homepage
1. disasssembling
2. adjust the fork oil level
3. eventually you rebuild my so called 3rd hand what makes the job so much more easy if you´re alone in the workshop
see the metric drawing there and click the video link at the end of page - ok in german but the movie alone will tell you a lot.
Last edited:
Yes. Basically it's the measurement of the air space from the top level of the oil. This can happen if they just filled the forks with what the manual says the oil amount should be without pumping the cartridges to get the oil inside the cartridge out or they simply overfilled it. Reducing air gap is one way to stiffen up forks but puts more pressure on oil seals. If you opened the rebound and compression adjusters all the way open and the problem is still there you need to take the forks off and have them redo it properly. Can't ride around like that. Gonna blow a seal prematurely, that front tire is not gonna stick to the ground like it should making it unsafe under bumpy conditions and cornering.
First off thanks for the reply.
It is an 06 first gen.
The shop I took the forks to is a Kaw/Honda dealer that say they service all makes and models. I was a little apprehensive taking it there but the only Suzuki dealer in the area is about 45 min farther away so I took a chance and got bit.
As to weather they had the proper manual or not I can't say.
It is currently my plan to make up the tools and do it myself as I should have done in the first place. I took the forks to have them done because I was occupying myself with new tires, clutch and brake fluid change and stuff like that.
I did download a manual that was linked on here but it is a second gen manual so I am still searching for the first gen manual. May have to buy one.
Dopey
Registered
At this point I'm sure it may not be something your comfortable with but I would be sure of the oil type that is needed and I would take the forks back to be done correctly and filled with the proper oil at the correct level or I would want my money back. If they did use the wrong weight oil then you do have justification to make them redo them just on that alone not to mention how dangerous the bike is with the forks the way they are now.
Ya payed for it. They messed it up. Have them do it right. Talk to the service manager. If ya went down technically they would be responsible since they did the service incorrectly and reduced your margin of safety.
Sounds like they di not bleed the cartridge correctly!
As far as the weight of the oil, you wont really see a difference, but i will say that the 10 weight is better a heavier rider. The forks are set up from the factory for a 165lb rider!
As far as the weight of the oil, you wont really see a difference, but i will say that the 10 weight is better a heavier rider. The forks are set up from the factory for a 165lb rider!
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