Swingarm extension how does this fit?

JohnnyDangerous

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How do these kits work and attach to the arm?

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They look like they slide into the swingarm. No instructions ? Experts will be along :thumbsup:
 
I have extensions that look similar that were already on the bike when I got it. See if these pics help.

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Ahhh I see now, all is clear, they dont show that in the advert. The other thing thats confusing is they supply a chain with 150 links for an extension that is a 4-8" lift, so do you add or remove links according to the stretch required? I was thinking about just converting the bike to drag mode each time we race it, IE put the extension in the arm and lower the bike using adjustable 'dog bones' and I was going to get a different top plate for the forks so I can pull em through a bit.
 
I was thinking about just converting the bike to drag mode each time we race it, IE put the extension in the arm and lower the bike using adjustable 'dog bones' and I was going to get a different top plate for the forks so I can pull em through a bit.

That's a lot of work, have fun with that
 
That's a lot of work, have fun with that

+1 :werd: I see switching back and forth getting real old and aggravating real fast :laugh:

Maybe taking the front straps on and off but changing the whole rear setup :whistle: That is not a "wax on wax off" job :laugh:

I see a second bike in your future :whistle:
 
+1 :werd: I see switching back and forth getting real old and aggravating real fast :laugh:

Maybe taking the front straps on and off but changing the whole rear setup :whistle: That is not a "wax on wax off" job :laugh:

I see a second bike in your future :whistle:

Absolutely plan will be a second bike if I can get the hang of it ok.
 
Ahhh I see now, all is clear, they dont show that in the advert. The other thing thats confusing is they supply a chain with 150 links for an extension that is a 4-8" lift, so do you add or remove links according to the stretch required? I was thinking about just converting the bike to drag mode each time we race it, IE put the extension in the arm and lower the bike using adjustable 'dog bones' and I was going to get a different top plate for the forks so I can pull em through a bit.

yeah, 120 link is a common size you will see chains sold in, but that is not enough for a stretched bike, so the next jump up in chain size (that I see commonly) is 150 links. You will have to remove links to get to your desired stretch (it says 4-8” the links for that range will vary). I think mine is 7.5 over, and uses 136 links.

If you want to change out between stretched and not stretched, you will also need to switch chain lengths. You could use a removable master link (one with the clip) to change chains, or even just remove a section of it (not the best idea, because then you have 2 weak master links). The problem is, these bikes put out a lot of power, and these master links kinda suck. I got a bike with 2 on them (he got a 120 link chain, and added links to it), and did not pay much attention to it for a while, until one gave way on me (not even getting on it that hard on the street). Luckily no issues, but I went out and bought a new chain, chain breaker, and a press fit master link.

You could pull the chain without removing the master link, but now you are talking about removing the cover over the drive gear.

I just leave it stretched. You may mess with lowering it, maybe even get a spare rear rim with a race tire, and different sprocket for track days (track gearing really sucks for mileage and interstate riding), but I think that may as far as I would want to go.
 
yeah, 120 link is a common size you will see chains sold in, but that is not enough for a stretched bike, so the next jump up in chain size (that I see commonly) is 150 links. You will have to remove links to get to your desired stretch (it says 4-8” the links for that range will vary). I think mine is 7.5 over, and uses 136 links.

If you want to change out between stretched and not stretched, you will also need to switch chain lengths. You could use a removable master link (one with the clip) to change chains, or even just remove a section of it (not the best idea, because then you have 2 weak master links). The problem is, these bikes put out a lot of power, and these master links kinda suck. I got a bike with 2 on them (he got a 120 link chain, and added links to it), and did not pay much attention to it for a while, until one gave way on me (not even getting on it that hard on the street). Luckily no issues, but I went out and bought a new chain, chain breaker, and a press fit master link.

You could pull the chain without removing the master link, but now you are talking about removing the cover over the drive gear.

I just leave it stretched. You may mess with lowering it, maybe even get a spare rear rim with a race tire, and different sprocket for track days (track gearing really sucks for mileage and interstate riding), but I think that may as far as I would want to go.

Thanks dude, I was going to run a diff back wheel and tire anyway with suitable gearing so after ive removed the wheel anyway bolting the extensions in is a very simple job and I would not even entertain a non rivet link, I reckon top whack street to strip in 2 hours tops inc swapping clutch springs out.
 
Thanks dude, I was going to run a diff back wheel and tire anyway with suitable gearing so after ive removed the wheel anyway bolting the extensions in is a very simple job and I would not even entertain a non rivet link, I reckon top whack street to strip in 2 hours tops inc swapping clutch springs out.

You are WAY over thinking it if you are going to change clutch springs out too. You will get tired of switching back and forth real quick and eventually just leave it stretched. I can't imagine trying to do all that work just to get a few passes in every other week. And if you aren't going to run a clip type link that will get very expensive just switching your chain out.
 
You are WAY over thinking it if you are going to change clutch springs out too. You will get tired of switching back and forth real quick and eventually just leave it stretched. I can't imagine trying to do all that work just to get a few passes in every other week. And if you aren't going to run a clip type link that will get very expensive just switching your chain out.

Dude Ive got a pro mod frame drag car that costs like 2K to race each weekend it takes days to prep and fortunes to keep running doing that to a bike is nothing in time and money.
 
Dude Ive got a pro mod frame drag car that costs like 2K to race each weekend it takes days to prep and fortunes to keep running doing that to a bike is nothing in time and money.

If you've got money to blow why don't you just buy another bike to drag race it? Honestly though if your going to change the clutch springs just leave the heavier ones in.
 
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