T/B Sync

TallTom

TallTom

Registered
Ok I just clocked 5,000 on my 03.  Like my other bikes I knew that usually they like to be sync'd up after factory break in.  I never had anything to go by for normal but I had a burbling idle I got used to as normal.  The bike ran just fine.  Still I figured why not have a look at it.  So I found that even though they looked pretty close, they were out enough to adjust.  Got all 4 T/Bs looking as even as possible.  Buttoned it all back up.  The idle was noticeably smoother before I even took it out for a spin.

I have become used to my bikes manners.  Been riding it regularly.  So I treated it as I usually would.  Ok so I turn out onto the road and wind on a little throttle.  HOLY CRAP  She breaks the rear wheel loose and is pulling harder than she ever did before.    My T/Bs were not out all that much but man oh man a little bit out makes a good noticeable difference.  Heck the bike was crazy fast before.  Now it is instantaneous in its throttle response.  I didn't even know I had a sluggish pull off idle until now.  I almost let it get the best of me its first 50 feet of acceleration.  Had I not been thinking I would have cranked on more and she would have gotten away from me.  I have to learn my throttle management all over again now.....
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Don't hesitate to consider making sure your T/Bs are as close to perfect as you can make them.  My bike feels like a different bike right now.  Better, more responsive, and smoother.  Take it to a competent shop if you don't have the gauges or comfort level to do it yourself. You won't regret it.
 
(TallTom @ Nov. 16 2006,17:32) Ok I just clocked 5,000 on my 03.  Like my other bikes I knew that usually they like to be sync'd up after factory break in.  I never had anything to go by for normal but I had a burbling idle I got used to as normal.  The bike ran just fine.  Still I figured why not have a look at it.  So I found that even though they looked pretty close, they were out enough to adjust.  Got all 4 T/Bs looking as even as possible.  Buttoned it all back up.  The idle was noticeably smoother before I even took it out for a spin.

I have become used to my bikes manners.  Been riding it regularly.  So I treated it as I usually would.  Ok so I turn out onto the road and wind on a little throttle.  HOLY CRAP  She breaks the rear wheel loose and is pulling harder than she ever did before.    My T/Bs were not out all that much but man oh man a little bit out makes a good noticeable difference.  Heck the bike was crazy fast before.  Now it is instantaneous in its throttle response.  I didn't even know I had a sluggish pull off idle until now.  I almost let it get the best of me its first 50 feet of acceleration.  Had I not been thinking I would have cranked on more and she would have gotten away from me.  I have to learn my throttle management all over again now.....
wow.gif


Don't hesitate to consider making sure your T/Bs are as close to perfect as you can make them.  My bike feels like a different bike right now.  Better, more responsive, and smoother.  Take it to a competent shop if you don't have the gauges or comfort level to do it yourself.  You won't regret it.
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i'm ready to get slapped! i haven't had them done once, and she needs it desperately. how much is the tool and where to buy it? is this hard to do for an amatuer?
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I just bought merc stix from motion pro for $80. They had an economy version for $50. I'm going to do my own synch for the 1st time in a couple days
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I've checked tappet clearances and have been told that its harder to do that than synch the TBs.
 
There are varying views on the use of Merc gauges. There is a school of thought that if you accidentally rev the engine too much you will suck mercury into the cylinders. I have used the vacuum style with success.

This particular time I took it down to a shop to use his digital one. He let me do all the labor and simply use his rack and tools. It was about a half hour job doing it that way. The whole process is covered here under a link in General Maintenance T/B sync. Can't recall who wrote it up but it is an EXCELLENT source here. Use the search like I did it came up like the first or second result.

J.C Whitney has a decent vaccuum set that will work. I can get the part number if you are interested.

The main problem is looping the vaccuum lines to allow for the bike to idle without the airbox installed. It is all spelled out how to do it, but you can pick the wrong configuration of vaccuum line choice and the bike won't idle for you. It isn't a hard process at all once you understand it, but you do need to think about what he is clearly telling you in the procedure he wrote up. The first time requires you read it through a couple of times.

I can't emphasise enough how a little out of sync can effect the bikes manners. Mine was not out that much. But take your time to find the best possible equalness in them. You will like the results of your patience.
 
All the bike are off from the factory,, its a fairly simple job as long as you have the wright tools!! Just make sure that you dont forget to hook everything back up properly and you shouldn't have a problem!
 
I've just been looking at JINKSTERS guide to syncing the throttle bodies.

Why did he re-assemble the vacuum hoses in a different way than they were originally? When he started all 4 bodies were conected and when he finished it was 1 to 4 and 2 to 3. Am I missing something here?
 
That is the write up I referred to in my post. Yes I did notice there was a change in configuration of his vaccuum lines when it was re-assembled. I do not know why he would re-configure unless there is some mod that was accomplished at the same time. I do not know why that set up was used in preference to the factory configuration.

However his configuration of the lines are very relevant in the portion where you are taking readings. The bike will not ide if you don't configure the lines as he specifies. Somehow the PAIR line needs to be capped off. There is some sort of sensor or something that needs to see that specific vaccuum. I originally didn't use that port and the bike would not idle.
 
BTW I learned that the factory never does a completed sync. When they assemble, they do so in an assembly line process. Each T/B or carb. is built to identical specs. They set them up mechanically to be identical, and install the same one as they do the 10,000th one, assuming they are all identical. They are close, but never identical. There is always some minor differences from the start, and as they wear those little differences become more pronounced as they wear mechanically in slightly different ways at break in. Once they are broken in and you sync them up properly, they generally are going to stay in sync from then on as they should all mechanically wear at approx. the same rate. Not to say that you should never sync again but it isn't something you should be worried about as a periodic PM step. Unless you remove and do something to your T/Bs they are pretty much going to wear the same way for the rest of thier lives.

I as a rule at least have a look at all my bikes sync about every 2 years.

Oh BTW I also noticed now that I synced mine, my high idle makes more difference in the RPM it attains when engaged. It went from 2K to about 2800 now.
 
Ok, I've done some searching, and it looks like he did the PAIR mod and that's why the pipework was changed.

Am I right?
 
(celticBandit @ Nov. 17 2006,05:59) Ok, I've done some searching, and it looks like he did the PAIR mod and that's why the pipework was changed.

Am I right?
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I suspect so. I didn't take the time to explore why the differences but disabling ther PAIR is part of installing a new exhaust. They usually go hand in hand. I did not however change any of the factory vaccuum line configuration when I buttoned it up. But the first time I did not cap off the PAIR and I did not route the sync vaccuums like he called out, assuming that is was not relevant. It matters. The bike would not idle until the vaccuum loop was configured correctly during sync.
 
(TallTom @ Nov. 17 2006,06:32) That is the write up I referred to in my post.  Yes I did notice there was a change in configuration of his vaccuum lines when it was re-assembled.  I do not know why he would re-configure unless there is some mod that was accomplished at the same time.  I do not know why that set up was used in preference to the factory configuration.  

However his configuration of the lines are very relevant in the portion where you are taking readings.  The bike will not ide if you don't configure the lines as he specifies.  Somehow the PAIR line needs to be capped off.  There is some sort of sensor or something that needs to see that specific vaccuum.  I originally didn't use that port and the bike would not idle.
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the end configuration he has in his write up doesn't have anything to do with the PAIR's mod. I forget what it was for something specific for his set up on what he was doing, but I beleive that you would want to configure the vacuum lines as before the sync.
 
Just did my bike and Busaone's bike last week. Huge difference on mikes bike with 26.000 miles,never synched before. mine was noticable with just over 13.000 miles. tire breaks loose easier now. Smoother idle on both. used motion pro merc. stix. Very easy, do it yourself job... Thanks to jinkster for nice write up...
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how about a direct link? the only tools I found are mercury free and are $229, and $569. and those are under the carburetor section.
 
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