T/B Sync

Tried the merc stick today! Way easier but not as accurate as the Po'mans tool! The 4 merc stick showed rite on! Hooked up the fish tank hose with colored water and could adj em a bit closer.  Idled and ran the same as B4 though  
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 just like a zuki should  
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 Link to po mans tool.
 
Yeah, time to do mine again. Usually, I can feel the pistons bouncing around in there when they get out of synch but I'm thinkin' the power isn't there like it should be.

Also, I just hit 25,000 miles and probably need to do a lot of other maintenance including the fork tube seals and oil change, header bearing lube/inspect, etc. etc.

--Wag--
 
(Wag @ Nov. 25 2006,10:49) Yeah, time to do mine again.  Usually, I can feel the pistons bouncing around in there when they get out of synch but I'm thinkin' the power isn't there like it should be.  

Also, I just hit 25,000 miles and probably need to do a lot of other maintenance including the fork tube seals and oil change, header bearing lube/inspect, etc. etc.

--Wag--
With the move what elevation are you at now...the higher you go the less power your bike will make
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(BA BUSA @ Nov. 25 2006,11:58) With the move what elevation are you at now...the higher you go the less power your bike will make
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Funny thing is, the power stayed the same through the move, even though we went to 5,000 ft. The additives in CA gas really drags down the power. Also, my fuel economy improved from about 34 mpg to 41 mpg, just over 20% in both bikes and from 15 mpg to 21 mpg in the car, about 40%. The truck seems to be comparable to the car nowadays.

Add to that, the fact that gas is about $0.30/gal cheaper here and our gas bill has dropped dramatically.

No, the power loss, as imperceptible as it is is probably due to the TB's being out of synch. Right now, I have my idle set a little too high and I can't feel it like I normally can through the handlebars. However, it's about that time and I'm sure that once I synch 'em up again, I'll be back in action.

What I REALLY need to do is eliminate all the CA smog gear off the bike and see how much power I gain from doing that.

--Wag--
 
The vacuum hoses should be hooked back per factory. You can do the Jinkster vacuum tube mod but it won't make any performance difference from stock.

Don't waste your money on high dollar sync gages. You can spend from $50 to $100 on mercury sticks that will last a lifetime and work flawlessly.

It's not true that once you sync the carbs they should always stay synced. The vacuum is a product of the valves and rings. As they wear the throttle bodies will need to be re-synced to work best. After all, you're adjusting the vacuum to be equal in each cylinder not the butterfly to be open the same in each throttle body.
I would recommend they be checked every six months regardless of miles. A good reason to buy yourself a set of sticks and learn to do the sync. They work on any bike so you could actually earn a little extra cash syncing peoples bikes for a small fee. Good for you and great for them.
 
Just to add,

Synchronizing the Carburetors

BEFORE attempting to adjust the carburetors, you MUST have the other basic systems of the engine working properly: ignition properly adjusted (timing spot-on, advance mechanism operating properly), valves adjusted, compression within specifications, air filter clean, pollution lines leak-free, etc.
 
(Rhythm @ Nov. 25 2006,17:45) Just to add,

Synchronizing the Carburetors

BEFORE attempting to adjust the carburetors, you MUST have the other basic systems of the engine working properly: ignition properly adjusted (timing spot-on, advance mechanism operating properly), valves adjusted, compression within specifications, air filter clean, pollution lines leak-free, etc.
Very true. Generally it's the last thing I work on after everything else is done.

--Wag--
 
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