Taller rear tire

I'm considering it.

I'm all about correct ride height and handling, but I like to ride wheelies and rail corners, I even still skim a knee, on rare occasion anymore.
But, truth be told, down in flat Florida, where you're mainly cruising in a straight line, lowering the bike a little isn't going to kill it.
Still aim for the best sag numbers that you can get, so the suspension works well and transfers as little motion into the frame, and the front and rear do effect each other.
And as you may have already found out, if you lean over too far in a turn, it's much easier for the road to pull your foot off the peg or force and upshift, as you have less ground clearance.
Neither is a big deal either, just something to be aware of.
If you the lower the front equally, you can gain some handling, but at the expense of less ground clearance...and flattened header tubes are not uncommon, lol.
Ultimately, if you aren't comfortable, then you aren't enjoying yourself, so set it where you like it, and are in control for your riding style.
:beerchug:
 
I'm all about correct ride height and handling, but I like to ride wheelies and rail corners, I even still skim a knee, on rare occasion anymore.
But, truth be told, down in flat Florida, where you're mainly cruising in a straight line, lowering the bike a little isn't going to kill it.
Still aim for the best sag numbers that you can get, so the suspension works well and transfers as little motion into the frame, and the front and rear do effect each other.
And as you may have already found out, if you lean over too far in a turn, it's much easier for the road to pull your foot off the peg or force and upshift, as you have less ground clearance.
Neither is a big deal either, just something to be aware of.
If you the lower the front equally, you can gain some handling, but at the expense of less ground clearance...and flattened header tubes are not uncommon, lol.
Ultimately, if you aren't comfortable, then you aren't enjoying yourself, so set it where you like it, and are in control for your riding style.
:beerchug:
If I do lower it I plan to go only one inch. I already have the block for the front. I'm not going to reuse the Brocks dogbone links, going to get the turnbuckle style links, probably Soupys because they're steel.

Question is how do I calculate the length they need to be adjusted to to match the front? Is there a leveling point somewhere?

Will I be able to use my stock kickstand? I really don't like any of the lowering kickstands, they all have tiny feet.
 
If I do lower it I plan to go only one inch. I already have the block for the front. I'm not going to reuse the Brocks dogbone links, going to get the turnbuckle style links, probably Soupys because they're steel.

Question is how do I calculate the length they need to be adjusted to to match the front? Is there a leveling point somewhere?

Will I be able to use my stock kickstand? I really don't like any of the lowering kickstands, they all have tiny feet.

Just measure how much you drop the rear and drop the front the same, that keeps the stock stance, minus ground clearance.
As for the kickstand, that will depend on how much you lower it.
My '03 gsxr1k is lowered over 2" in the rear, with the forks slid up about a half inch.
The stock kickstand still works fine.
Once I start working on this bike it's going back to stock height, as it was this way when I got it.
 
Just measure how much you drop the rear and drop the front the same, that keeps the stock stance, minus ground clearance.
As for the kickstand, that will depend on how much you lower it.
My '03 gsxr1k is lowered over 2" in the rear, with the forks slid up about a half inch.
The stock kickstand still works fine.
Once I start working on this bike it's going back to stock height, as it was this way when I got it.
I'm going one inch on both ends. Measure from the ground to the bottom of the tail fairing I guess?
 
Would be nice to be able to calculate the drop rather than on the stand and off the stand many times. There has to be a known length of the dogbone for a one inch drop.
 
Would be nice to be able to calculate the drop rather than on the stand and off the stand many times. There has to be a known length of the dogbone for a one inch drop.

Mark reference points, like an old school rear sag measurement, like the axle to a tape mark on the tail.
Use your Motool slacker for an exact measurement.
For ballpark reference, 30-35mm track, 35-40mm street. I ran around 32mm on my gen2 on the street and it handled excellent, so that's 10mm total of preload alone to play with.
For the links you can measure visible threads, as you said you were buying adjustables, then bounce and settle the rear, and use the Slacker or a measuring tape to see where you're at.
 
Mark reference points, like an old school rear sag measurement, like the axle to a tape mark on the tail.
Use your Motool slacker for an exact measurement.
For ballpark reference, 30-35mm track, 35-40mm street. I ran around 32mm on my gen2 on the street and it handled excellent, so that's 10mm total of preload alone to play with.
For the links you can measure visible threads, as you said you were buying adjustables, then bounce and settle the rear, and use the Slacker or a measuring tape to see where you're at.
Embarrassed to admit I haven't even got the slacker out of the box yet....
 
Embarrassed to admit I haven't even got the slacker out of the box yet....

Slacker!!
Hey I opened mine...and took pictures!!
lol
I havn't done anything else with it either.
I've gotten a few generic emails about a review. So, last week, I responded and said, I havn't had the time or the weather to try it yet, but I would review it soon.
Within 2 minutes I had a reply...from the company owner, saying thank you, and that he understood!
Wow; how many companies do that these days?
I told him if it's good enough for Dave Moss, I'm sure it's a great product.
I look forward to using it.
 
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