The Ego and the Chicken strip

[Oz22]

Yes , there are some good sticker types , I use Belray blue , but ever since I seen Fortnine review of chain lube , I am thinking of just WD40 only .

Not wanting to totally derail the thread (which now is the BMW S1000RR thread BTW) lol. I have always considered lubes as to how they prevent wear between the chain AND the sprockets. Using WD40, which is basically a cutting agent, would not seem a good idea to me. If I have a jammed nut I'll spray it on that to help loosen it, but once loosened and cleaned I'll put oil or a Never-Seez on for reassembly. A locksmith I know recommends inox for keyways in locks. It's basically a better version of WD40, it frees up the mechanism but doesn't leave oily residue that could attract dust and dirt. If you look at the blurb on the 40 can there is nothing there about lubricating, it's all about loosening rusty parts basically.

 

[ROADTOAD1340]

Not wanting to totally derail the thread (which now is the BMW S1000RR thread BTW) lol. I have always considered lubes as to how they prevent wear between the chain AND the sprockets. Using WD40, which is basically a cutting agent, would not seem a good idea to me. If I have a jammed nut I'll spray it on that to help loosen it, but once loosened and cleaned I'll put oil or a Never-Seez on for reassembly. A locksmith I know recommends inox for keyways in locks. It's basically a better version of WD40, it frees up the mechanism but doesn't leave oily residue that could attract dust and dirt. If you look at the blurb on the 40 can there is nothing there about lubricating, it's all about loosening rusty parts basically.

View attachment 1678196

Last de rail bro , but yo can have a look at this vid I was talking about , entertaining regardless if you agree or not . This is link , apologies if it somehow doesn't load up .

 

[Oz22]

Yes well he basically does what everyone else does, misses the point and focuses on the internals of modern chains, which we all know are sealed and well lubricated. I like the guy, he puts out good stuff, but I'd like to have seen him expand the experiment to include the whole drive train, not just 1/3 of it. One thing I know from experience is that metal on metal wears with no lubricant, it also heats up. My point in all this is the SPROCKETS and how they and the chain is effected by running over them without lube.

This guy sums it up for me.

...at a recent press visit I took him to one side and asked him if we really do need chain lube. “In order to minimise wear and extend the life of your chain,” he told me, “you need to lubricate it. “It’s reducing the wear between the chain and sprocket, reducing stretch, and protecting against corrosion. “The grease already inside a chain is meant to stay in there – we don’t want to change that. We want to lubricate everything around that area.
... But we don’t want to see the lube migrating under the seals. “The lube must also protect the O-rings to ensure the factory grease stays inside. Chain lube is definitely not a waste of money; it really is extending the life of a chain.”

Is chain lube necessary, or is it just a scam?

The German Explains

 

[RacingJake]

So how miles is it after 9 hours on the Dyno ?

 

[ROADTOAD1340]

So how miles is it after 9 hours on the Dyno ?

I guess you are addressing me Jake , that is up to 9 hrs in dyno room mapping , not actual full time running the dyno( charged for 7 hrs ) , because of many stops and breaks to cool bike down over that time . I would say ( 35 Celsius for 2 of the days there , with 3 days there before done . The bikes heat was always monitored because it got hot . I ran the bike in at 480km mark , got it back with 600 km . First service was done before the Woolich mapping .

 

[RacingJake]

Wow 75 miles, That's one good looking bike ! Looks fast just sitting there.