Throttle Lock
- Thread starter Rhythm
- Start date
george henry
Registered
I just got my Throttlemeister heavy bars ends and highly polish extras dollars for my 08 busa $170.00. My bad for not reading this earlier.
I just got my Throttlemeister heavy bars ends and highly polish extras dollars for my 08 busa $170.00. My bad for not reading this earlier.
Dayyyyum, they're up to $170::11.
Vaggabon1
Registered
Cool mod.. seriously!! Does it disengage easliy thiough??.. from just holding on the handlebar.
I personally just hold on the barend with just 20% of my grip on the throttle. Thats my equivalent of cruise control and it allows me to sit up and back more. I liike the mod though.
...in my world they call up DIY-ers, "Bush Mechanics"..... solutions made easy with zip ties, duct tape and crazy glue!!
I personally just hold on the barend with just 20% of my grip on the throttle. Thats my equivalent of cruise control and it allows me to sit up and back more. I liike the mod though.
...in my world they call up DIY-ers, "Bush Mechanics"..... solutions made easy with zip ties, duct tape and crazy glue!!
91shplx
Registered
Bump....... for those who have the time and enjoy making their own shid.
Probably should be moved to the MODS Dept.
I like it saves $150.00 that some don't have this day and time
busaboy007
Registered
there is an easyer way to have a throtle lock this probly only involves gen 1 busa if you tack out all the slack out of the choke and bend the little post that the choke hits just a little bit you will have an a cruze control up to 65mph with no cost to anyone free cruze control built into the busa thank the engineers
I was going to purchase the TM, but I'm going to try this first. Thanks Rhythm.
HER-QUE-LES
Registered
wow awesome
BY1Wheel
Registered
I just did this mod on my 08. Their were a few differences between gen 1 and gen 2.
First the gen 2 barend bolt is a 6mm not an 8mm like on the gen1. Had to return the 8mm helicoil kit I bought for a 6mm kit. Also the original barend bolt will work but... you have to tap about 1/4 inch more threads on it because 3/4 of the bolt is smooth and 1/4 of it is threaded.You need these extra threads for the helicoil.
I did not countersink or drill out the outside of my bar end like Rythm did. The gen 2 bolt is hex and it already is countersank in the bar end.
First the gen 2 barend bolt is a 6mm not an 8mm like on the gen1. Had to return the 8mm helicoil kit I bought for a 6mm kit. Also the original barend bolt will work but... you have to tap about 1/4 inch more threads on it because 3/4 of the bolt is smooth and 1/4 of it is threaded.You need these extra threads for the helicoil.
I did not countersink or drill out the outside of my bar end like Rythm did. The gen 2 bolt is hex and it already is countersank in the bar end.
xchief1320
Registered
I know this is old but i just saw it and figured I would put in my 2 cents since i did something similar not too long ago..
I think the way he did it was he used thread locker on the bolt going into the helicoil to basically lock it into the bar end. That way when you turn the bar end it turns the bolt. Also you'll have to do something to keep it from vibrating out by itself. You can put locktite on the threads that go into the actual bar after it dries you can turn it and break the threads loose but it should put some resistance on them to keep them from looseneing too much or do like I did and slightly flatten the threads on the bolt that way it screws in but has some resistance. You have to be REAL careful not to mess them up too much otherwise it won't screw in at all or it will go in a seize due to cross threading it.
I didn't know this thread existed but I did basically the same thing except i didn't use a helicoil. I actually took a step unibit and drilled the side where he put the helicoil in just big enough for a nut to be tapped into it. Again you have to take your time and get the hole just slightly smaller then the nut outter diameter and then you can tap it in and it won't turn. Then just screw in your stock allen head bolt until it's tight. Does the same thing as what the Original poster did except saves you money from having to buy a helicoil kit. a nut is only a few cents at Home Depot.
I also used a white top cap off a Coleman camp propane bottle.
This mod does work once you get used to locking it down.
I can post a pic of it if anyone needs a visual of it.
I think the way he did it was he used thread locker on the bolt going into the helicoil to basically lock it into the bar end. That way when you turn the bar end it turns the bolt. Also you'll have to do something to keep it from vibrating out by itself. You can put locktite on the threads that go into the actual bar after it dries you can turn it and break the threads loose but it should put some resistance on them to keep them from looseneing too much or do like I did and slightly flatten the threads on the bolt that way it screws in but has some resistance. You have to be REAL careful not to mess them up too much otherwise it won't screw in at all or it will go in a seize due to cross threading it.
I didn't know this thread existed but I did basically the same thing except i didn't use a helicoil. I actually took a step unibit and drilled the side where he put the helicoil in just big enough for a nut to be tapped into it. Again you have to take your time and get the hole just slightly smaller then the nut outter diameter and then you can tap it in and it won't turn. Then just screw in your stock allen head bolt until it's tight. Does the same thing as what the Original poster did except saves you money from having to buy a helicoil kit. a nut is only a few cents at Home Depot.
I also used a white top cap off a Coleman camp propane bottle.
This mod does work once you get used to locking it down.
I can post a pic of it if anyone needs a visual of it.
