Time for a little suspension debate!

On the stock Busa suspension, my zip tie would drop to within a quarter inch of the bottom. Not good. Just from normal braking.

I need to do that again, actually.

--Wag--
 
Boy Tuf a suspension thread now :thumbsup: . Well here is my little story I upgraded my suspension in the front with heavier springs from race tech I went with the 2.0Kg springs I did no research and now I am kicking my self in the butt. I thought when I bought the springs that they would be good due to my weight when leathered up for track day well then I took everything to my suspension guy and he told me I should have gone with a lighter spring something along the lines of a 1.2Kg spring. So morale of the story for me was DO SOME DARN RESEARCH NEXT TIME!!!! :whistle: but on a good note the springs are working well in the frontend and the bike still feels stable :thumbsup:

OK, tell us what your research shows. How many Kgs of spring for what weight?
I'm in the dark on this one too, but I suspect mine should be stiffer.
 
1. Everyone else is "modding" their bike, I had to keep up with the Joneses.

2. The most expensive stuff I could find, even if the owners manual uses big words and I don't understand all the button and dials.

3. Parking lot respect.

4. The more I pay for something the greater the validation of my self worth as a consumer.

:laugh:
:moon:
:whistle:
:beerchug:

cheers
ken

I think you pretty much nailed it. :rofl::rofl::rofl: I would add:

5. It has to be shinny or have LEDs, lots of gold mixed with chrome is good.
6. If it comes with a self-serving sticker put that on and be sure the brand name is as large as possible.
 
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I think you pretty much nailed it. :rofl::rofl::rofl: I would add:

5. It has to be shinny or have LEDs, lots of gold mixed with chrome is good.
6. If it comes with a self-serving sticker put that on and be sure the brand name is as large as possible.

OH MY GAWD....

I just realized...

we are talking about me!

:thumbsup:
:moon:
:whistle:
:laugh:
:beerchug:

cheers
ken

motivator688234.jpg
 
Actually Ken, your bike looks beautiful to me because of the compilation of very hi performance parts and the traditional splashes of gold on a black bike. It doesn't say, "look at me, I'm a bling monster", it says, "my appearance is understated and top of the line, I'm about performance and my owner has thoughtfully assembled me to
his good taste.....I am a thouroughbred but I don't brag".

How's that for a talking motorcycle? Doyle
 
Respringing. I really don't consider this an upgrade, just an adjustment to the rider's weight and riding style. It's something that needs to be done when riding at the track. Same thing for setting sag.

I think that raising the rear(for both geometry reasons and increased ground clearance reasons) is an adjustment all track riders should try/do.


I do agree with Tuf that "upgrades" are for the fastest B riders and A group riders.
Upgrades;
Ohlin's internals in the front forks. Biggest advantage over stock is adjustability. Each click makes a bigger difference than a stock click. And you can have it valved so that your baseline setting is in the middle of the clicker's range.

Revalving(not respringing) the rear shock does the same thing. More change for each click and you can have it valved so your baseline is in the center of your clicker range.

Ohlin's steering damper. Again, its adjustable. Stock is just one setting, that's it. I believe my ohlin's has 16 clicks to suit the track I'm at.
 
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yup always have the zip tie active. :beerchug:

ladden sag 38 to 40mm

What was your target sag number?

Your chosen sag number is not as important as knowing if your forks are bottoming out. Everyone should do the old "Zip Tie" trick on the fork tube. Tells you exactly what your springs are doing before buying new ones.

P5283287.jpg
 
Actually Ken, your bike looks beautiful to me because of the compilation of very hi performance parts and the traditional splashes of gold on a black bike. It doesn't say, "look at me, I'm a bling monster", it says, "my appearance is understated and top of the line, I'm about performance and my owner has thoughtfully assembled me to
his good taste.....I am a thouroughbred but I don't brag".

How's that for a talking motorcycle? Doyle

Wow....

Thanks for the kind words. I guess, in truth, you said what I was trying to say with my bike, but FAVahalik's post made me laugh and I saw a chance to poke fun at myself, Ohlins sticker, gold bits and all.

I figure a dose of self depreciating humor is good for the soul. My father told once me;

"You don't want to be one of those guys who can dish it out but they can't take it, so if you can't poke fun at yourself you shouldn't poke fun at others."

I enjoy unsheathing my rapier like wit upon the deserving and unsuspecting so heeding my father's advice, I include myself.

So, in that spirit here's another!

:laugh::beerchug:

Webshots.com Links Do Not Work

cheers
ken
 
Respringing. I really don't consider this an upgrade, just an adjustment to the rider's weight and riding style. It's something that needs to be done when riding at the track. Same thing for setting sag.

I think that raising the rear(for both geometry reasons and increased ground clearance reasons) is an adjustment all track riders should try/do.


I do agree with Tuf that "upgrades" are for the fastest B riders and A group riders.
Upgrades;
Ohlin's internals in the front forks. Biggest advantage over stock is adjustability. Each click makes a bigger difference than a stock click. And you can have it valved so that your baseline setting is in the middle of the clicker's range.

Revalving(not respringing) the rear shock does the same thing. More change for each click and you can have it valved so your baseline is in the center of your clicker range.

Ohlin's steering damper. Again, its adjustable. Stock is just one setting, that's it. I believe my ohlin's has 16 clicks to suit the track I'm at.

I could not have said it better! Charles is a well schooled and informed rider!

I think I disagreed with him once but I can't remember what it was!
It must have been his denial of never seeing a fat chick naked? :poke:
 
OK, tell us what your research shows. How many Kgs of spring for what weight?
I'm in the dark on this one too, but I suspect mine should be stiffer.

My research say get with a good suspension guy have him do all the adjustments and have him make a recomendation to you on what kind of set up would be best for you. :thumbsup:
 
Here's an efficient no brainer way to tune your suspension=pick the most nasty, bumpy, irregular, offensive road or track that you often ride on (ex. me...Reno Fernley Raceway!)...adjust/modify your suspension to work well there, then you will be happy EVERYWHERE ELSE you ride with minor adjustments! Doyle

MF1A9442.jpg
 
Here's an efficient no brainer way to tune your suspension=pick the most nasty, bumpy, irregular, offensive road or track that you often ride on (ex. me...Reno Fernley Raceway!)...adjust/modify your suspension to work well there, then you will be happy EVERYWHERE ELSE you ride with minor adjustments! Doyle
sounds suspiciously like one of my ex's.... in all seriousness... I need a suggestion for the rear spring..
 
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Ok Steven and Rich...

You know how I ride.. my seals are leakin'. Time to take off the forks and improve them a bit.

Here is what my research has netted me;

The racetec site says I should be runnin 1.0 springs. (yea...just like you and Rich already told me..)

I called GP suspension this morning to see what the cost would be to have them do the job. He said that I'd need to change out the rebound and compression needles plus valving etc.. to make the forks work correctly with the 1.0's. He seemed to think that by just putting in springs, it'd act like a pogo-stick.. My issue is I don't have 640.00 to do what he says should be done..

Is he right? Is replacing just the springs a bad idea? I was about to pull the trigger on a set of Racetec springs and have my local suspension pro do the swap, but now I'm not sure....

It is pictures like this one that concern me.. granted, I'm on the brakes hard here...but the front end is at the bottom..
ROD_2858.jpg
 
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Just springs would help with the sag(ride height) but you should do the valving at the same time...just gonna cost you more later on. Do the seals for now and then do the upgrade when ya got the dough.
 
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