Tip Over Protection ???

OB_Warp1Busa

Registered
Does anyone make tip over Protectin Sliders for the busa Yet ?? I'm sure a Tip over will be very Costly with all that Plastic.
And Idea also would be to Get some of those Plastic Skateboard Bumpers you see on the End of Skate boards and kinda make your own makeshift side protection ?? just a thought. any feed back would be Helpful.

Warp1
 
I'll tell you exactly what a tip-over costs. I've been riding bikes for nearly thirty years and have never had a tip-over until a week ago on the Busa. I came to a full stop at a traffic light and when I went to put my right foot down, the (overly long) shoe lace got caught in the brake pedal. Although I quickly pulled the shoe back, it was too late since I was already starting to tip to the right. Down it went. The long line of cars in back of me must have wondered how a bike that appears capable of Mach 2 goes tipping over AT A DEAD STOP! Extremely embarassing to say the least. I barely got the bike tipped back upright by myself. For a bike that flicks reasonably well for a big machine, this baby is heavy when it is prone. The right fairing (~$520)and bar-end weight (~$20!!!) got severely scratched and the brake lever snapped at the cast-in relief mark (~$65). With tax the bill was over $600.


(FYI - the engine cut-out switch worked as advertised, automatically shutting off the machine as it tipped in slow motion.)
 
And don't forget about nine forum members reported tipovers caused by unexpected sidestand retraction. When my bike went over I was standing close and got knocked on my butt (left shoulder blade to be exact). It still hurts.
 
Has anyone actually installed these yet? I have a pair but the instructions call for drilling 2 inch holes in the fairing. What is the best tool to use for leaving a nice neat hole? I sure don't want to have a trashed up ugly hole there.
 
Here is how I do it on plastic (or fiberglass). Draw the circle you want on the plastic. Drill a much smaller hole on the center, maybe 3/4". Now, using a Dremel tool with the sanding drum on it, keep working around in a circular motion until you meet the lanes you drew. IMPORTANT! Do it from the backside. If the sanding drum slips, it will walk across the finish. Less chance of this from the backside.
 
The way to drill a round hole is with a hole saw. The only way-Unless you plan on boring it. Fast, clean and neat.
ducmanic
Los Angeles
 
OUCH guys)))) :( Thanks for the Info,,just ordered protection sliders from inturace.

Hope they're avalible

"Warp1" Rubber side down
 
Ducamanic is right. One point: Before you mark or cut painted plastic, cover your cutting area with tape...any tape...on the painted side. And always start your hole on the painted side. This way you'll cause minimal damage to the paint. If you're good and you use a fine enough saw at high enough revs, all you'll have to do is paint the hole black and coat the cut with clearcoat.

[This message has been edited by Dirty Pete (edited 05 September 1999).]
 
Save your money guys, when the bike goes down that pathetic little plastic thingy is not going to do any good. Have you looked at your bike closely? Haven't you noticed all the curves and bulges? If you dont want your bike on its side get some god damn training wheels, sheeesh.
 
Waltman give us a break.

We've dropped these things five ways to Sunday.

We know what gets wrecked and what doesn't.

Training wheels? That's a little cocky...

What are you riding out of interest, and welcome to the site.
 
A.) use "blue" painters tape. also works well to put the blue tape a fairing seams when r&r the side panels for service the tabs wont scratch paint upon fitment.

B.) a hole saw is the way to drill any accurate hole in the panel, allways use the arbotr to drill the pilot hole first, and then add the hole saw to finish the work.

C.) Intuitive said there wasn't any hole to be drilled - via email from them????

Can anyone with a set installed send pictures?
 
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