Working On Busa Tips

[MikeSomething]

When I have my bike on the rearstand and I'm lubing the chain on it, I always check my tires for screws, nail, glass etc while it's spinning...

 

[BUBBA]

My Tip: Make sure you take said saran wrap off of pipes before you start it again.

DO NOT USE SARAN WRAP!!!! PLEASE USE ALUMINUM FOIL.

Thank you,
Bubba

 

[mike1180]

Asking mike1180 for information will make working on your bike much easier and faster. Sorry mike you may be getting a lot of ???'s
Bubba

Thanks Bubba.
Glad to help whenever I can.

One tip is whenever you work on something, take lots of pics as you go through.
It makes it a lot easier to put it back together after with pics.
In my Evo Star thread, one of the pics was very helpful.
I looked everywhere for the second bolt that holds the waterpump on and finally looking at the pic when I took it apart, it wasn’t there in the first place!
Fell off or got missed from the factory.

 

[Fastfrog007]

Put all you fancy scratchable fairings far, far away. Things seem to be attracted to them. My tail and hump are currently stored in my car(stored for winter) until i get out the the garage next week to finish the project.

 

[mike1180]

When taking off the oil filter, I have to remove the oil line that goes across it to the block, due to my aftermarket pipes.
I got some bolts that were the right thread, cut the heads off and made studs that I loctite permanently into the block.
Now it comes off with 2 nuts.
The aluminum that the OEM bolts are screwed into will wear out after time and then there will be a real problem.
The studs fixed that.

 

[MikeSomething]

My tail and hump are currently stored in my car(stored for winter) until i get out the the garage next week to finish the project.

Fastfrog, is that 4th gen Camaro interior I see??

 

[mjrfd99]

I like the idea about wrapping the headers to keep the oil off of them while doing an oil change.

I use aluminum foil

 

[flybybusa]

When removing the Gen II fairings remember the fairing won't just "fall right off" if you forget to pull it back out of this grommet (see attached). And when re-installing be sure to moisten grommet and carefully align so as not to push it into the intake tube.
https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/gen-ii-busa-information/77309-removing-gen-ii-right-side-cowling.html

 

[MikeSomething]

When removing the Gen II fairings remember the fairing won't just "fall right off" if you forget to pull it back out of this grommet (see attached). And when re-installing be sure to moisten grommet and carefully align so as not to push it into the intake tube.
https://www.hayabusa.org/forum/gen-ii-busa-information/77309-removing-gen-ii-right-side-cowling.html

On Gen1's, you have to lift the fairing up and out of the grommet. I guess it beats the fairing just dropping and hitting the ground after the last screw comes off...

 

[AJAY]

Not Busa specific, but...

When adjusting your drive chain, rotate the wheel until you find the tightest spot, and then adjust the chain to proper slack. After you adjust the chain, rotate the wheel slowly while you check chain tension to make sure that you did adjust at the tightest spot. If the chain tightens up on you while rotating, loosen things up and adjust there.

Wear those cheapie vinyl gloves when adjusting the chain. $5 a box at Harbor Freight, a little more at Lowes or Home Depot.

Waterless hand cleaner (like Goop or GoJo) is great to clean the crud off your rear wheel and sprocket. Smear it on (no water!), scrub a little with a cheapo brush, and then rinse off. Works better than just about anything I know and it's cheap.

And finally, use some hand lotion on your hands before you start wrenching and it'll be a lot easier to get your hands clean later!

 

[Dr E]

Just remember, when dealing with plastic tabs on the Gen II body work...if you are putting inordinate pressure to pull it apart, you will exceed the capacity of the clips. All the plastic will easily come apart. Except the nose as you will have to really crank on the plastic to get it over the support bracket.

 

[r1d3on3]

I like the idea about wrapping the headers to keep the oil off of them while doing an oil change.

If you like that, you can also try aluminum foil over the headers and make it into a funnel type shape where the oil will drain into your pan and not get on the headers.

Also, keep a handful of each type of plastic pushpin for the fairing handy for when you do work on the bike. Every so often one or the other breaks. And be easy when taking the fairing off. If possible, try to have the fairing warm and not be pulling it off in a 32 degree garage or something...things start to break...

Fast Orange works wonders on dirty hands.

When you are going to work on the bike, before you even start, run the project through your mind a couple of times to save yourself from as many "hindsight is 20/20" issues as possible.

Last, do lots of research and don't be afraid to ask questions. There are lots of riders out there that absolutely love anything that has to do with their busa and would more than likely enjoy helping you through problems

 

[Fastfrog007]

Fastfrog, is that 4th gen Camaro interior I see??

Good eye, I think its time for another pic

 

[Fastfrog007]

If your working in a non or semi heated garage and you have a car that lives in there too, pull the car out, let it run till it gets up to temp and then pull it in, shut it off, and close the door. The engine gives off quite a bit of heat for awhile. A V8 is much better than an electric heater

 

[BIG GUY]

That is a good tip RayDog!

 

[AJAY]

If your working in a non or semi heated garage and you have a car that lives in there too, pull the car out, let it run till it gets up to temp and then pull it in, shut it off, and close the door. The engine gives off quite a bit of heat for awhile. A V8 is much better than an electric heater

Better yet, get yourself an All Pro propane heater (40,000 btu forced air). It looks to be identical to the more expensive Reddy heater. You can get it for about $55 shipped off of ebay. This thing rocks.