Can the front wheel be properly tightened from either the hex or nut? Or just the hex, and the nut is more fixed?
I usually hold the axle and tighten the nut.
The nut takes a large allen socket.
And some of the specialty sockets have a 3/8" drive in them for a torque wrench, if the don't, then just hold the hex socket with a wrench, and use a 6 or 12 point socket on the axle and tighten it with the torque wrench, while holding the specialty hex tool with a wrench.
Tightening the nut vs the bolt is pretty standard in most cases, but not always possible, and since the torque is not super high(most Suzuki front sportbike axles are 72' lbs), you can get by if you have to.
Just be aware that some bikes have a fork leg with an internal shelf that the axle sits flush against, so you really don't want to be turning the hex head on the axle when torquing it any more than you have to, as it just grinds against where it seats, vs letting the nut do that on the other side instead.
The axle fit through the center of the fork legs also isn't super tight, which is another reason for the pinch bolts, and on some models They are the only thing preventing side to side movement of the axle, not just it's rotation in the forks.
Also, tighten the pinch bolts by snugging one, then snug the one beside it, and back and forth until both are taking effort to turn, then back and forth with the torque wrench, then the other side.
Pinch bolts are only 17' lbs, and it can seem like alot, so just go slow.
If you just crank one down, then the next, then you risk stripping the 2nd one you tighten, as the pinch bolts just compress the fork leg, and clamp it around the axle.
If you close that gap on one end and leave a big gap on the other(the gap in the lower fork leg that the pinch bolts close), vs pulling them both down evenly...then the hole alignment on the big gap side becomes slightly out of alingment from front to back between the 2 holes.
This can then make it Much easier for a steel bolt to strip aluminum threads, especially with a low torque number.
It is a pretty forgiving design, as I have seen alot that felt like they had 200' lbs on them, and they were fine...and I've had threads come out removing others.
Just an Fyi to keep in the back of your mind, and a little caution can prevent some big headaches.