Tryin to get low 10's Help! PIC INCLUDED

I'm aware of the octane/detonatin issue, which is why I would never run less than 90 octane in my bike.

Is the only benefit to race fuel the higher octane to protect higher compression engines?
 
The higher octane would work great if you were spraying nitrous,turbo, or had a high compression motor. The busa does not need 110 and from my experience and many others, the 110 in a stock busa looses performance. I have seen about a 3mph diff on my bikes, but i guess everyones entitled to there own opinions. I would run 91-92 if you would not want to run the 89, give it a try it cant hurt. If your willing to spend the money on 110, get vp mr11 that stuff will work wonders just dont leave it in your tank to long. Thats just my 2 cents from my past experience.:beerchug: It looks like your doing pretty good dragging the bike especially for your size ! As others stated, work on that 60ft and 330ft. It is by far the most important to knocking of tenths. Try a little more rpms because that bike has to work to move a bigger guy, and drag the clutch dont throw it.
 
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MR9 and a solid tune will get you a little back half but your front half is gonna come from seat time...
 
seat time is your best friend at the track, someone to kinda watch if you can find video of him is Ricky Gadson, watch his feet at the line and during takeoff, and his posture on the bike tells allot about him...
 
MR9 and a solid tune will get you a little back half but your front half is gonna come from seat time...

isnt this stuff kinda bad if not used properly???? just curious...
 
I had this same arguement back years ago over on the yzf600r forum. It was my first bike so I took it down the track. No one there could get a stock bike in the 11s! I posted info on how my bike ran slower on 93 octane but picked up as much as 4 mph with 87 octane. I tried this several times and I always ran faster with 87 octane. I ran a 11.97 and everyone called :bs:...My Busa will be at the track again tomorrow and it has only had 93 octane in it once! It slowed down also and will never see a higher octane unless I get it tuned for it or start spraying it! Times in sig are lower now due to 45t rear sprocket btw instead of 42t.
 
If the bike is mapped for race gas, or has higher compression than stock it will pick up power. If not you're wasting your money buying anything more than 87. We weigh about the same, cheap and helpful mods would be to put the cans back on (more back pressure thus more torque), lowering links, (you have a strap coming), 16t front, 42 rear. You can find a lot of these things used here or on Psychobike, If you want new most any of the sponsors will hook you up. When you can slip some coin past the ole lady buy a good used exhaust (suggest Hindle or Muzzy on a budget) PC3, extensions, and a 45t rear.
 
I tip the scale @ 290 in race gear also(ex football player) , so I know your weight can kill the second half of the run on a stock bike. Gear the bike, slam it to the ground, tighten the compression and rebound in the rear, lean foward, lift the throttle elbow up,try to hide behind the fairing, hold the throttle @3000, and use the tourque to leave the line. Shift before 10,500rpms and make sure the throttle is pinned. I used a 005 shinko @ 18psi before I installed my turbo.Get the tire hot.Practice the launch and 1-2 shift until it feels natural. My brother is 315#s (Packrers d- lineman) and he can luanch a busa stock height like this.
 
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isnt this stuff kinda bad if not used properly???? just curious...
Hopefully the person he gets his GOOD TUNE from fills in all the blanks..drain hose and a pump gas flush after each use. FYI its Rickey..
 
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I tip the scale @ 290 in race gear also(ex football player) , so I know your weight can kill the second half of the run on a stock bike. Gear the bike, slam it to the ground, tighten the compression and rebound in the rear, lean foward, lift the throttle elbow up,try to hide behind the fairing, hold the throttle @3000, and use the tourque to leave the line. Shift before 10,500rpms and make sure the throttle is pinned. I used a 005 shinko @ 18psi before I installed my turbo.Get the tire hot.Practice the launch and 1-2 shift until it feels natural. My brother is 315#s (Packrers d- lineman) and he can luanch a busa stock height like this.

:thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
I'm starting to belive this 87 oct. thing. I"ve run 6.26 in the 1/8 at only 113mph. with high test gas. I going to switch to 87 oct. next time and see if the mph dont pick up.
 
gear it strap it and lower it...also lose 50#s thats like giving her another 17 hp:rofl:
 
okay, im goin to drain her & add 1 gallon of 87 octane, i got the strap so were good in that dept, oh & i lost 5 ibs:rofl:, i didnt get a chance to run thur night (stupid rain in Wisconsin) so i'll hav 2 trust u guys on this one, heck yall never steered me wrong before, sunday is the race & all i need is a half second off my solid 11.009 et & we got some serious Ricky Bobby action goin on:::cheerleader::bowdown:

rollintrack.jpg
 
Best of luck at the racing, seen dyno charts few years back, same bike, same day, same dyno. Back to back runs with Gen 1 Busa first with 93 octane and second run with 87 and bike actually picked up a couple HP on second run.
 
Everybody hears the words..."Race Gas" and assume that it is going to make a difference so it is understandable for the confusion. Race gas is typically the high octane that we are so familar with. It can range from about 101 to as high as 130 octane. The other "Race Gas" people talk about is the oxygenated blends. They will only have a little more octane over your typical pump gas but offer some actual power increases. Anyhow, I highly suggest using the MR9 oxygenated fuel which will indeed increase power upwards of 8hp with a tune on the dyno and maybe as much as 6hp without a tune. It is only 87 octane. It's cousin, MR11, has 90 octane and is better suited for litre bikes or bikes that have 12.5 to 1 compression or more. I suggest tuning a little richer such as 12.8 to 1 so that you compensate for ram-air and on the road the AFR will be a little leaner.

As I am sure you have heard over and over, dynos help in tuning a motorcycle close to best HP/TQ but are not the end of all ends. I use and advocate the use of a Wide Band Oxy for best possible performance on the road or the track. Experienced tuners will tune a bike on the dyno knowing that you may not get the best possible HP/TQ #s but it is tuned so the bike will run like a beast on the road.

I am 285lbs suited and use a 46 rear sprocket, slammed, stock exhaust, small airbox mod, stock filter, no pair valve, brock ultra clutch mod and 30lbs of weight removed from the bike. I use Amsoil synthetic oil and MR9 race fuel. I am at 5300' altitude and now have ran a best of 10.40ET @132mph with a 1.65 60ft. time. My launches start at 8.5k rpms and it eventually drops down to about 6.5k rpms, but I get WOT immediately. Shifts are at 10.2K rpms and I trap just at 10.2K rpms in 4th gear. Because the bike is completely slammed, I have a hard time getting my feet on the pegs to shift, partly because of the leather pants but the peg angles change once the bike is slammed. So I use an air shifter and get my feet close enough and shift away with my thumb. Then I tuck as tight as I can and squeeze my legs tight against the bike. Anything to help the backhalf some more. This is also on a Michelin Pilot Power with absolutely no tire spin except for the 1st to 2nd gear shift and sometimes from the 2nd to 3rd gear change. The track up here is really not that good past 150' from the line. But my 175lb suited friend has ran low 9.80s @139mph w/1.58 60 ft. time.

Hope this helps but as I have preached for 25 years, practice, practice and practice some more. :thumbsup:
 
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