Turbo help

Ignore the rough bits on the top of the JE, i dropped a valve on that piston.
Thanks to Gazza414 for the sectioning .
 
didnt know that was your piston lol
cp moves the bottom ring landing up to allow the pin to be raised so it doesnt have to run the spacer like the je does
 
didnt know that was your piston lol
cp moves the bottom ring landing up to allow the pin to be raised so it doesnt have to run the spacer like the je does

Yeah, i'm glad someone saved the pics, should do it myself now or i'll have to search later when i want the reference.

What is the top ring position in the CP like ?? closer to the top or are all the rings just stacked closer ?
 
Yeah, i'm glad someone saved the pics, should do it myself now or i'll have to search later when i want the reference.

What is the top ring position in the CP like ?? closer to the top or are all the rings just stacked closer ?
that i dont know i read a post from john about them one time but i may be wrong in what i read or forgot
 
turbo pistons have always required a spacer on the busa.


if you haven't melted a piston, add a spacer and a new head gasket and go...

odds are you blew a head gasket or melted a piston. I have never seen a head lift on a busa.

Heads typically lift during detonation, or too long on the factory limiter, that is what causes the head gasket to fail. For almost every head gasket that leaks, the head has lifted.

Richard
 
does not answer the question... WHY would you not manufacture a piston that does not require a spacer on a busa motor... why require a deck height change..

This is not how it is done on any other type of motor we have turbo'ed.. The primary difference in a stock piston and a turbo piston is typically compression ratio and in some instances heavier ring lands.. (we always run total seal, zgaps or dykes rings) adding additional pieces to the cylinder assy simply adds more chances for leaks, movement or failure.. The spacer is only going to further lower the compression ratio on the motor, why was this not done during machining of the piston slugs?

Total Seal rings fail on turbo busas over 15 psi of boost. Too thin to take the heat. As for raising the cylinder, it is the most viable option for lowering the compression, the cylinder is already removable, and a shorter connecting rod would only apply move force on the cylinder walls. So replacing the stock gasket with a thicker spacer to raise the cylinder works out well.

Richard
 
Heads typically lift during detonation, or too long on the factory limiter, that is what causes the head gasket to fail. For almost every head gasket that leaks, the head has lifted.

Richard

so if you have a bike with a blown head gasket in for repair...do you deck the head?

If what you are saying is correct and the head lifted at one section...then it probably distorted or twisted in some manner. In cars, we always deck the heads. Never in bikes...and we never have a problem with just replacing the gaskets.
 
so if you have a bike with a blown head gasket in for repair...do you deck the head?

If what you are saying is correct and the head lifted at one section...then it probably distorted or twisted in some manner. In cars, we always deck the heads. Never in bikes...and we never have a problem with just replacing the gaskets.
well gary ill step in on this
yes ive seen my head dip on an indicator .002-.003 and had to deck it to get flat again
same with jugs
ive seen quite a few slightly warp the head and need decking
not much decking but still had a warpage to it
 
so if you have a bike with a blown head gasket in for repair...do you deck the head?

If what you are saying is correct and the head lifted at one section...then it probably distorted or twisted in some manner. In cars, we always deck the heads. Never in bikes...and we never have a problem with just replacing the gaskets.

Some do require a light skim to get them true again and some do not, when detonation lifts the head it can also stretch the head bolts or studs, it does not neccessarily lift the head between bolt holes, and it would only take a thou or less to create a leak, once a small leak has been created the combustion has a path and will slowly make the leak worse and worse.

Richard
 
ken at velocity racing said that the factory head bolts are only torqued at 35 ft lbs, when i put the ape studs in i had to torque them to 65 ft lbs, i only ran the bike 1 time through the gears when i found out it was pumping 10 psi in the turbo by then it started pumping antifreeze out of the reservoir.
 
Doesn't hurt to make sure the mating surfaces are flat, i finish mine with 800 paper wet with crc on a sheet of glass, surprising sometimes the irregularitys this shows.

sometimes there is more heat expansion than a NA bike, if your reservoir is fairly full cold you may push some out when hot, but if its regular, always pumping water out and you know it was bled of air properly, then you have a problem..
 
ken at velocity racing said that the factory head bolts are only torqued at 35 ft lbs, when i put the ape studs in i had to torque them to 65 ft lbs, i only ran the bike 1 time through the gears when i found out it was pumping 10 psi in the turbo by then it started pumping antifreeze out of the reservoir.

Busa heads are supposed to be torqued to 37.5 ft lbs not 35, and typically we torque them to 40 ft lbs if the customer still wants to use the factory bolts, the 10psi was not the cause of the head gasket leaking, it would have been the fact that you were quite lean, and detonating, as I am sure yourmap was meant for 6-7 psi not 10 psi, the better studs would have helped in your situation, but most likely the head gasket still would fail even with those studs in the same situation.

Richard
 
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