Uneven Brake Pad Wear - Need Some Advice
- Thread starter Busa Phil
- Start date
cheferman65
Registered
Yes the piston that is stuck out and NO! do not grease anything on or around the calipers. If grease or oil gets on or near
the pad material they are shot.
the pad material they are shot.
One piston was definately hanging up causing the pad to wear out.Make sure to bleed both pistons with the 2 bleeder screws.I almost that when I did my pads.Rebuild it and save some money.Pretty easy if you have compressed air and dont have your fingers near the pistons when you pop them out or there will be words.I use a small piece of wood normally.
E Zurcher
Registered
Lud Speed was right I looked at my caliper closer and it does not float. But I must disagree with the grease part. Guess I better bring mine back to the dealer cause the factory screwed up when they built my bike!!!! Cause there is grease/antiseize on the forward bolt where the pads slide. 10000 miles and no problems here. I'd take a look at the service manual and see what that says.
Good question because the pads float on those pins. I think he was suggesting a small dab of anti-seize. PM him if he doesn't answer up. I would still make absolutely sure that the caliper is assembled correctly. Best of luck.
Warchild
Banned
Absolutely, positively NO, do not do this!
When the component is disassembled, that's when you definitely want to clean the pin, even take a bit of emery cloth/scotchbrite and polish that pin smooth, but in NO way, shape or form do you put any lubricant on it whatsoever. The pin should be bone dry during re-assembly.
Ludicrous Speed
Registered
The problem is that grease will either seek out the heat source like wheel bearing grease, or it melts and will get into the pads and that will ruin them. There is no way to salvage them once you get oil, grease, or brakefluid on brake pads.
Lurcher, I do not know what is on there, as I have not had my Gen2 brakes apart yet, but I have never seen anything on any other pad, caliper, or pin on any other bike I have worked on. I will have to go look now
Lurcher, I do not know what is on there, as I have not had my Gen2 brakes apart yet, but I have never seen anything on any other pad, caliper, or pin on any other bike I have worked on. I will have to go look now
E Zurcher
Registered
Service manual says to apply silicone grease (P/N 99000-25100) to the rear brake caliper sliding pin and inside the boot at the spacer, pages 4C-4 and 4C-5. Oh and by the way, the rear caliper on a Gen 2 is a full floating caliper. Don't have the service manual for the Gen 1 because I don't own one. You can pull the boot back on the slider and see the grease. BTW I wasn't trying to be a smart ass, just shorten your screen name Ludicrous Speed. Mine is E Zurcher.
E Zurcher
Registered
For Ludicrous Speed. Downloaded and took a look at the Gen 1 service manual. Of course you are right on all points for a Gen 1 rear brake. It is not floating and does not require grease on the pins. The caliper should be rebuilt and your instructions are spot on. 
Next time I'll do more research before chiming in. I am amazed sometimes at just how different the two generations actually are. I'll stick with Gen 2 advice from now on...til I get a gen 1
Next time I'll do more research before chiming in. I am amazed sometimes at just how different the two generations actually are. I'll stick with Gen 2 advice from now on...til I get a gen 1
Ludicrous Speed
Registered
Zurcher, I did not think you were trying to be a smartazz....... No worries..... And I just screwed up on your name, not on purpose.
I forgot that the rear on the new bikes did have silicone grease on the pin, my bad. I knew he had a gen 1, and that everything was solid and dry on those. I have only had my Gen2 apart 1 time, to put the chrome pieces on.
See we were both right!
I forgot that the rear on the new bikes did have silicone grease on the pin, my bad. I knew he had a gen 1, and that everything was solid and dry on those. I have only had my Gen2 apart 1 time, to put the chrome pieces on.
See we were both right!
They cleaned up well. The piston wasn't stuck. The one may have been slightly hung up by some gunk but both pistons were perfect and shiny after cleaned. I pushed both pistons flush to the caliper with my fingers, however, they did seem to be fighting me a bit. If there was too much brake fluid in the system, could that cause this? The fluid is now over the upper limit. I was going to remove some with a turkey baster but I ran out of time. I had to get back to the ole' lady for dinner.
Before cleaning:
During:
Reassembled:
This is reassembled correctly according to the diagram I looked at. Can anyone confirm?
Before cleaning:
During:
Reassembled:
This is reassembled correctly according to the diagram I looked at. Can anyone confirm?
1ibandit
Registered
You should never have to add brake fluid, the systems are designed to hold enough fluid to let all piston go to max ware on the pads. So many people add fluid and you should never add it. If your fluid is real low you need a brake job done. So if yours is over full some one added fluid after it got low. You are best to remove extra, but I don't think being to full was the problem.
If the pad was bad that fast I can't believe you rotor was not burned. Glad you got her cleaned up, and be safe.
1ibandit
88 ZL1000, 07 KaBusa
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
If the pad was bad that fast I can't believe you rotor was not burned. Glad you got her cleaned up, and be safe.
1ibandit
88 ZL1000, 07 KaBusa
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Let us know if it's fixed.
Twist The Throttle
Registered
Confirmed. Reassembly is correct.
I would however take it apart and clean the caliper with brake cleaner. Get all the grit and dirt off and they look and work so much better.
I would however take it apart and clean the caliper with brake cleaner. Get all the grit and dirt off and they look and work so much better.
I meant to quote 1 iBandit above. He said, "You should never have to add brake fluid, the systems are designed to hold enough fluid to let all piston go to max ware on the pads. So many people add fluid and you should never add it. If your fluid is real low you need a brake job done. So if yours is over full some one added fluid after it got low. You are best to remove extra, but I don't think being to full was the problem."
In response, I cleaned everything with a contact cleaner and that's as clean as it came. Most importantly, the pistons were pristine with no gunk remaining. Here is my theory on how the brake fluid may have been overfilled:
This is an embarrasing story, but about a year ago I forgot to remove my rear disc u-lock and drove off. After two feet I had a bent rotor and busted brake line. :stoopid: I rode the bike to a local shop where they replaced the rotor and put the braided line on. Now I'm thinking, what if they didn't replace my halfworn pads and refilled the brake system to the upper level.
Now when I put new pads on, the fluid level increased even more causing the too much pressure in the caliper and making that one piston stick out in combination with a little gunk. Does anyone think this could be the culprit?
In response, I cleaned everything with a contact cleaner and that's as clean as it came. Most importantly, the pistons were pristine with no gunk remaining. Here is my theory on how the brake fluid may have been overfilled:
This is an embarrasing story, but about a year ago I forgot to remove my rear disc u-lock and drove off. After two feet I had a bent rotor and busted brake line. :stoopid: I rode the bike to a local shop where they replaced the rotor and put the braided line on. Now I'm thinking, what if they didn't replace my halfworn pads and refilled the brake system to the upper level.
Now when I put new pads on, the fluid level increased even more causing the too much pressure in the caliper and making that one piston stick out in combination with a little gunk. Does anyone think this could be the culprit?
1ibandit
Registered
When you pushed the piston back into the caliber did you remove the cap. If you didn't the pressure would push the piston back out right away making it hard to put it back together. I can't say this would have been the cause of the problem.
My guess is .... I don't know... hearing what u did don't even come close to doing the work and seeing what went on.
What I do not saying its the best way, but I remove the cap and wrap a rag around it in case it over flows.
Is every thing good now... how is that motor....
Sent from my HTC Glacier using Tapatalk
My guess is .... I don't know... hearing what u did don't even come close to doing the work and seeing what went on.
What I do not saying its the best way, but I remove the cap and wrap a rag around it in case it over flows.
Is every thing good now... how is that motor....
Sent from my HTC Glacier using Tapatalk
Umm...I pulled the tail off to get to the brake reservoir tonight. The fluid was just at the upper line so that's not the issue. I adjusted the chain and made sure the axle alignment was spot on. When I spun the wheel I'm getting some drag at one spot in the wheel revolution so I think my rotor is slightly warped. I'm assuming this probably occurred from the one pad dragging the whole time. I also think I'm in the market for a new chain and sprockets pretty soon. Maintenance that I have been avoiding is coming back to bite me.
