Velocity Racing Stage 2 Turbo Kit

Good step...
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Nahhh looks like she can take it and give back double. This is how it all starts.
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Dear Journal,
...13 days have passed since we were last together...
...pictures of you keep me holding on to hope that we will be reunited soon...
...longing to be brought together again...
 
Just be careful, she is going to turn more heads now and lots will be looking at her rear in the distance. Do not let her stay away from you to long.
 
What engine mods are needed for the kit?
I would guess at least new rods
For 300rwhp no bottom end work is required.
Above 300 starts to get dangerous with a stock motor.
This kit is good to about 360 - 370 hp (non dual ball bearing turbo).
However, with my stock bottom end... 300 will be the max for now.

About 250'ish t 6lbs of lowboost... switchable to hi-boost for 300hp.
 
What engine mods are needed for the kit?
I would guess at least new rods
For 300rwhp no bottom end work is required.
Above 300 starts to get dangerous with a stock motor.
This kit is good to about 360 - 370 hp (non dual ball bearing turbo).
However, with my stock bottom end... 300 will be the max for now.

About 250'ish t 6lbs of lowboost... switchable to hi-boost for 300hp.
Not entirely true. Rods will be fine, but you need to modify your cluth with heavy springs or a lockup clutch. Also you need to put on a clutch brace or yo will crack it. You also should consider a billet output shaft, or you will just be doing it at a late date. Stock output will bend or twist even at 280hp.
 
What engine mods are needed for the kit?
I would guess at least new rods
For 300rwhp no bottom end work is required.
Above 300 starts to get dangerous with a stock motor.
This kit is good to about 360 - 370 hp (non dual ball bearing turbo).
However, with my stock bottom end... 300 will be the max for now.

About 250'ish t 6lbs of lowboost... switchable to hi-boost for 300hp.
Not entirely true.  Rods will be fine, but you need to modify your cluth with heavy springs or a lockup clutch.  Also you need to put on a clutch brace or yo will crack it.  You also should consider a billet output shaft, or you will just be doing it at a late date.  Stock output will bend or twist even at 280hp.
Pertaining to the output shaft...

Planning to run between 250 - 300 hp.

Do I need to upgrade the output shaft?

How difficult is that to change?

How far apart do you break the engine down to put it in?

When is the right time to do this?

What is the typical cost for this (Parts & Labor)?
 
What engine mods are needed for the kit?
I would guess at least new rods
For 300rwhp no bottom end work is required.
Above 300 starts to get dangerous with a stock motor.
This kit is good to about 360 - 370 hp (non dual ball bearing turbo).
However, with my stock bottom end... 300 will be the max for now.

About 250'ish t 6lbs of lowboost... switchable to hi-boost for 300hp.
Not entirely true.  Rods will be fine, but you need to modify your cluth with heavy springs or a lockup clutch.  Also you need to put on a clutch brace or yo will crack it.  You also should consider a billet output shaft, or you will just be doing it at a late date.  Stock output will bend or twist even at 280hp.
As far as the output shaft you will more than likely be OK...Your riding style for the most part is not going to stress that particular part...Now if you plan on dragging alot you might want to upgrade to a heavy duty shaft...Remember I had to replace mine because it sheered but I had other problems with the bolt ons...Heavy output shaft is about $350 is don't remember...Down side is you have to pull the motor to do the install...I don't think I would do it unless the motor was being pulled for other reasons or if tranny work was needed...
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If you haven't planned on it go ahead and get the slave support from Kevin...I think he's got them on sell...  
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What engine mods are needed for the kit?
I would guess at least new rods
For 300rwhp no bottom end work is required.
Above 300 starts to get dangerous with a stock motor.
This kit is good to about 360 - 370 hp (non dual ball bearing turbo).
However, with my stock bottom end... 300 will be the max for now.

About 250'ish t 6lbs of lowboost... switchable to hi-boost for 300hp.
Not entirely true.  Rods will be fine, but you need to modify your cluth with heavy springs or a lockup clutch.  Also you need to put on a clutch brace or yo will crack it.  You also should consider a billet output shaft, or you will just be doing it at a late date.  Stock output will bend or twist even at 280hp.
As far as the output shaft you will more than likely be OK...Your riding style for the most part is not going to stress that particular part...Now if you plan on dragging alot you might want to upgrade to a heavy duty shaft...Remember I had to replace mine because it sheered but I had other problems with the bolt ons...Heavy output shaft is about $350 is don't remember...Down side is you have to pull the motor to do the install...I don't think I would do it unless the motor was being pulled for other reasons or if tranny work was needed...  
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I have to disagree on not chnaging the output shaft eventually. I have seen shafts twisted with out running them on the track. when you notice your chain going tight and loose the shaft can only be out by 1 or 2 1,000. I do agree that you can get lots of miles out of it before you change, but is you run 300hp you will be running 150#'s of torque and up. The point is if you have the bike apart nad you can afford the work do it. If not wait until you reset your valves, or put new rings on.. You have to pull the whole bottom off for the shaft. The Billet shaft will run $360 or so and the labor will be $400-800.
 
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