forceofnature
Registered
Yep rotational mass is where you get the biggest bang.
Weight reduction
- Thread starter V8N3T
- Start date
Thanks to all who tried to explain this concept to me. And thank you GPW for informing me about the subject. Also sorry if I miss construed any information I got out of our conversation the other day. And I understand, we all have a day like that from time to time.
I didnt have the best day either, I had to go to the sickhall to get my last wisdom tooth pulled. In the process I broke yet another arm on their dentist chair there. I broke an arm on the dentist chair in bootcamp also, from them hurting me while pulling 3 wisdom teeth out at basic. Anyways, thank you for helping me understand a little more in depth. I think we can close this topic now.
I didnt have the best day either, I had to go to the sickhall to get my last wisdom tooth pulled. In the process I broke yet another arm on their dentist chair there. I broke an arm on the dentist chair in bootcamp also, from them hurting me while pulling 3 wisdom teeth out at basic. Anyways, thank you for helping me understand a little more in depth. I think we can close this topic now.
Weight loss is a double edger in a way. In regards to weight loss, you spend lots of $ and /or have a stripper when your done. Things like Carbon Fiber, Titanium come to mind first and foremost.
Parts that I've seen for weight reduction, yet not have a stripper:
BST CF Wheels w/ Ti axles and ceramic bearings
CF Body work and inner fairings (or go stripper and no inner fairings), fairings, hump, undertail, huggerless, tank, Ti&CF Exhaust (inconel if you can find and afford it but talk about fricken expensive....ouch).
Skeleton Billet Ti Triple Clamp Assembly
Custom one-off's would be Ti or CF SwingArm (is theres some place making these already sorry havent found them)
Ti sprockets and chain
Polycarbon or CF Windscreen
!mirrors
Integrated rear light set, eliminates side blinkers
CF Bars
Ti centered rotors with lightened calipers
Ti bolt set (found a 200pc for $500)
Gundrill crank, billet lightened clutch mods, Ti rods, ultralight pistons, ceramic coated internals spec'd for longevity, billet oil pan,
CF Airbox and rams with stacks
!horn, oil cooler, PAIR Valve,
Not sure exact amount of weight reduced, but I was trying to calculate it and thought it was a savings of arond 40bs. Now that doesn't sound like much, but a thrid of that is rotational weight, making it more responsive to your input, and more predictable, quicker acceleration and stopping etc.. Cost for all that is ballpark of at least $12,000. Is that worth it? If your serious about it maybe... this is where I enjoy only weighing 160lbs
Parts that I've seen for weight reduction, yet not have a stripper:
BST CF Wheels w/ Ti axles and ceramic bearings
CF Body work and inner fairings (or go stripper and no inner fairings), fairings, hump, undertail, huggerless, tank, Ti&CF Exhaust (inconel if you can find and afford it but talk about fricken expensive....ouch).
Skeleton Billet Ti Triple Clamp Assembly
Custom one-off's would be Ti or CF SwingArm (is theres some place making these already sorry havent found them)
Ti sprockets and chain
Polycarbon or CF Windscreen
!mirrors
Integrated rear light set, eliminates side blinkers
CF Bars
Ti centered rotors with lightened calipers
Ti bolt set (found a 200pc for $500)
Gundrill crank, billet lightened clutch mods, Ti rods, ultralight pistons, ceramic coated internals spec'd for longevity, billet oil pan,
CF Airbox and rams with stacks
!horn, oil cooler, PAIR Valve,
Not sure exact amount of weight reduced, but I was trying to calculate it and thought it was a savings of arond 40bs. Now that doesn't sound like much, but a thrid of that is rotational weight, making it more responsive to your input, and more predictable, quicker acceleration and stopping etc.. Cost for all that is ballpark of at least $12,000. Is that worth it? If your serious about it maybe... this is where I enjoy only weighing 160lbs
The Hayabusa seems to be overbuilt, but that's why it also seems to last and handles all it's power and mods without too much trouble. But, here are some ideas that are easy to implement.
Here's a freebie - remove the rear grab bar. That thing's solid metal.
The bodywork is light already so save your money here.
You'll save the most weight for the least money with a 4-2-1 aftermarket exhaust and removal of the air pump plumbing.
The stock wheels are pretty light already. Reducing rotating mass is a big deal, but there isn't too much to gain here, especially if you ride on the street (potholes,....).
Remove the stock handlebar mounting plate (heavy!) and go to clip-ons.
Lighter chain (like a D.I.D. 50 VM vs a 50 ZVM) and an aluminum rear sprocket.
A smaller gas tank. Gas is 6.3 lb/gal., plus it's a 5.5 gal tank.
An aftermarket optimized rear swingarm could save a lot of weight.
To do much more will really cost a lot more. You could also try to put the 'busa motor in a GSXR600 frame.
Here's a freebie - remove the rear grab bar. That thing's solid metal.
The bodywork is light already so save your money here.
You'll save the most weight for the least money with a 4-2-1 aftermarket exhaust and removal of the air pump plumbing.
The stock wheels are pretty light already. Reducing rotating mass is a big deal, but there isn't too much to gain here, especially if you ride on the street (potholes,....).
Remove the stock handlebar mounting plate (heavy!) and go to clip-ons.
Lighter chain (like a D.I.D. 50 VM vs a 50 ZVM) and an aluminum rear sprocket.
A smaller gas tank. Gas is 6.3 lb/gal., plus it's a 5.5 gal tank.
An aftermarket optimized rear swingarm could save a lot of weight.
To do much more will really cost a lot more. You could also try to put the 'busa motor in a GSXR600 frame.
busa crazy
Registered
you may need to refigure the weight on the busa and the 1000, because those weights are without fluids. the average full body busa weighs in around 520 lbs w/fluids,and the 1000 is around 404 lbs w/ fluids.
good luck with you weight reduction, because it's not cheap!!!!
good luck with you weight reduction, because it's not cheap!!!!
Take this for what its worth:
I have spent several years refining and tuning my Busa to be lighter and more powerful.. After many many thousands in mods I stopped counting. I could have had 3 Busa's by now.
Don't get me wrong I will always keep my bike and I really love it. If it's Gixxer weight you want, with all due respect buy a Gixxer. You will very easliy blow past the 10k mark and have room to go. If you really like the ride and handleing of the Busa tune your suspension and brakes and add a turbo. It will ride well and go fast.
In conclusion, there are many fast liter bikes out there. To make the Busa one will cost more than just owning both.
I have spent several years refining and tuning my Busa to be lighter and more powerful.. After many many thousands in mods I stopped counting. I could have had 3 Busa's by now.
Don't get me wrong I will always keep my bike and I really love it. If it's Gixxer weight you want, with all due respect buy a Gixxer. You will very easliy blow past the 10k mark and have room to go. If you really like the ride and handleing of the Busa tune your suspension and brakes and add a turbo. It will ride well and go fast.
In conclusion, there are many fast liter bikes out there. To make the Busa one will cost more than just owning both.
markhurd101
Registered
grabntwist... you have wisdon beyong your years.
Or.....instead of trying to make the mighty busa into something she's not, take those big bucks you're about to spend and buy a liter bike (take your pick, their all good!) for those times when ya just feel the need to rail or stunt a little....my buddy just picked up a perfectly good 04' gsxr 1000 for $4500...their out there in droves!!
A Hayabusa or any motorcycle can be anything you decide to make of it. Thats the other side of the sport. It does take way more thought and money to make the Hayabusa a true sportbike that you can still sport-tour with. If you have the skill and the means, either keep it stock, turbo, slam it or stretch it, its all good. No matter how you look at it you are still bolting on parts, some just cost more than others. The parts you are fitting should get you to where you want to be. Having a plan is the most important thing..then make it happen and don't half a** it or it will show. Just my 2C.
I agree w/ what GnT stated. Trying to make the Busa a litre bike will cost as much as just buying a 600cc-1000cc bike.
Chose the Busa for comfort/size, steady at high speeds, occassional two-up riding w/ wife, low-end streetable torque and unique styling.
But has anyone ever seen/ridden a litre bike that was modded/adjusted for comfort (seat/suspension/risers, etc.)? If so , how comfortable was it?
Chose the Busa for comfort/size, steady at high speeds, occassional two-up riding w/ wife, low-end streetable torque and unique styling.
But has anyone ever seen/ridden a litre bike that was modded/adjusted for comfort (seat/suspension/risers, etc.)? If so , how comfortable was it?
That is why the Hayabusa is a great bike for sportbike mods, you get the best of both worlds..do me a favor and chat with Sageronin "DJ" who has three Hayabusa's, two of which are Turbo charged. If you ride a properly modded Hayabusa on a true motorcycle roadway. Takes about five minutes to open one's eyes it did for him hence his stock bike make over that will be done tomorrow. Its great having a big bike with liter bike like manners, thats is where manufacturers are heading in the future.....the good stuff cost money. Your are either limited by your imagination or restricted by your budget. When neither are an issue life is pretty fun....heading to WV to do 350 miles a day for three days straight for the second time on my project Hayabusa...easily good for another 100 a day. My riding buddies usually tire way before then...its fun when a plan comes together and your Hayabusa is out ahead of other liter bikes and seeing people sit there scratching their heads...all that power properly channeled so you can use it.
I here ya, GP, I envy having your bike set-up. Unfortunately the additional funds are all being directed towards trips to Hawaii, Chicago, house upgrades, wife's B-day around the corner...Arghhhh!!! Sure would be nice to use all that money for mods.
Just got the bike in June so plenty of time to piece meal it together next year.
I did the house stuff all done got lucky and bought the model unit, heading to WV next month for four days of mountain carving, vacation coming in November. So I am not taunting anyone but many spend money on mods for this bike. Its all in what you want the end result to be, if there is one. For me and the people that ride with me, it's maximum performance for the mountains and nothing else. To each his own, just have fun in life no matter what you choose to do and enjoy the gifts of family and friends till you are gone.
Wow ... I'm a little shocked and surprised by the mixed reactions to my "Ronin Make-Over Project". I thought I was doing a good thing?? The idea came into my head last year when Yamaha created the special edition R1. I just wanted a lighter, better handling, and better braking Hayausa. Hayabusa being the keyword. So I commissioned Greg to make this happen for me. Haven't most of us put these mods on our wish list for the next Hayabusa? Are some of you saying that Yamaha should have directed their customers to an R6 versus buying their special edition R1?? In any case, I'm not trying to change anyone's mind that thinks these mods on a Busa are a waste, just expressing my reasons for doing so by comparing my mindset to what Yamaha might have been thinking with their R1 project. I'll be writing a detailed report after riding it this weekend.
Peace ... DJ
Peace ... DJ
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