(BusaWhipped @ Dec. 28 2006,04:47) What bike prep do they require? Antifreeze, safety wire, etc?
Straight from the horses mouth
Bike Prep
Except for a few special requirements listed below that differ from street preparation, preparing your bike for an Apex trackday is not unduly burdensome; the main requirement is that your bike is in good mechanical condition. Apex welcomes any brand of motorcycle in good working condition with at least 250cc displacement meeting the following requirements:
Tires and brake pads need to be in near new condition
Mirrors need to be removed or taped over
Controls (throttle, clutch, brake lever needs to move freely and snap back into the closed position
Headlight & taillight need to be disabled or taped over (its a good idea to unplug the bulbs if taping)
Blinkers taped over
Radiator Fluid (MMP does NOT allow glycol based coolant, RFR/Pahrump "reccommends" glycol coolant replaced with Water Wetter or equivalent)
Engine needs to be in good working order - No leaks!
Tighten/Check frequently removed bolts, drain bolt, oil filter etc.
Oil - make sure your fluid level is correct before you arrive at the track.
Remember to BRING YOUR KEY!
These items enumerated above are addressed in greater detail below.
Each trackday begins with sign-in and a tech inspection of your bike.
Preparing your bike does not have to be an ordeal. You can actually ride your street legal bike to the track, prep it there and ride the track for the day. While we have customers who do that, most choose to haul their bikes out to the track pre-prepped.
Good, working mechanical condition – Give your bike a good once-over. Check any nuts or bolts on items you have replaced or modified. We've never seen a motor mount come loose on a stock bike. While it could happen you are far more likely to lose your oil drain plug because you changed the oil recently, or to lose a front brake caliper bolt because you just mounted new tires. A pair of items that tend to work loose of their own accord, unlike stock motors, are bar end weights.
We're not suggesting you take a torque wrench to all 932 nuts and bolts on the bike. Just examine the common ones removed during routine maintenance, and those associated with any modifications (muffler mounting brackets are a fave). Regardless, do take a wrench to your oil drain plug and snug it up. Also do the same with your oil filter.
No fluid leaks. We never see this problem on newer stock bikes. This problem (along with loose motor mounts) occurs on heavily modified street bikes and race bikes.
No fluid leaks…………..Did I say, “No fluid leaks?â€
Chain - For occasional track use your chain does not require any adjustment beyond what is recommended in your owner's manual. If you're riding the track once a month or more you will need to add more slack, about 50% more than that recommended in your manual. The performance rigors of the track cause the rear suspension to travel far more than that incurred during street riding and the manufacturers recommended chain tension will be too tight. Again, a trackday now and then won't be an issue here.
Controls – We'll be checking to see that your kill switch works, the throttle return spring works, clutch and break levers work, foot brake and shift lever, etc. We don't care about the horn or the adjustable wind screen.
Headlight disabled and/or taped – Many track enthusiasts are not accustomed to seeing headlights on a race track. They can become very distracting when you see them flashing periodically from other parts of the track while riding. For this reason we ask you to disconnect the head light or remove the fuze for it. If these two procedures are just too much hassle you can duct tape it. One day at the track will not bake on the tape provided you keep it on low beam.
If your headlight has a glass cover then you must tape it no matter what. Most modern bikes have plastic covers and lenses and these do not require taping. Neither do plastic turn signal lenses.
Tail light disabled or tapped over – The same rule applies here. The trackday environment is derived from racing and there are no tail lights in motorcycle racing (except 24 hour endurance racing and then only a tail light, no brake lights are used). If you cannot disable the tail/brake light you must tape it sufficiently that it cannot be seen when activated. If it is made of glass you must tape it anyway, but usually not to the extent it must be taped if you're preventing the light from being seen.
Mirrors removed or taped – Again this falls back to racing where motorcycles do not utilize mirrors like cars do. Removing them is best. If that is too much hassle they must be taped.
The taping of lights and mirrors does not have to be elaborate, only functional. However, there is always a photographer at our events and everyone who did a functional tape job is always redoing it at lunch after they see the morning pictures. The most effective technique is to tape beyond the item being covered, like a headlight, and then trim the excess with a razor blade.
Tires – As we all know, street bikes wear out the center of the tire, often “squaring it off.†Unless you're an over aggressive canyon rider, the tread on the sides of the tire will have plenty of life even when the center is shot.
Track bikes do the exact opposite. They wear out the sides of the tires usually leaving the center in pristine condition. Regardless, the tread pattern (any portion of it) must not be down to the wear indicators when you arrive for tech inspection.
Tape your wheel weights.
Tire pressure is an important issue at the track. Add a tire gage to your tool kit if you haven't already. Ideally you want to check the pressure in the morning before you ride your bike anywhere. This is known as the cold tire pressure and it should be 30-32 lbs in the front and 28-30 in the rear, both well below normal recommended street pressures. If you're hauling your bike to the track and don't have a compressor you can overfill the tire to 40 lbs (at a gas station for instance) and bleed them down after you get to the track. If you're riding your bike to the track set your cold tire pressure to the normal street psi. When you arrive immediately check them again for your hot tire pressure. Either drop the pressure 5 lbs from this hot tire reading or set them at 35 lbs, whichever is higher (i.e. don't let your hot pressure fall below 35 lbs).
Brake Pads – They never wear out as you're pulling into the garage. They wear out 300 miles from home or…at the track. Better to check them and not need them then to need them and not check them.
Suspension Settings – If this is your first trackday don't worry about it. You will have enough excitement for one day without learning to ride a new bike. If you've done a few trackdays then you should begin to think about this aspect of your bike and make the appropriate changes. Most on-line moto magazines have suspension articles with recommended trackday settings for almost all sportbikes produced in the last 8 years.
DON'T FORGET YOUR BIKE KEY – Not an issue if you're riding to the track. [/Quote]