what am I going to run into?

dragonbusa

Registered
Whats up yall, I blew the clutch last night at the drag strip.Pulled it down today on my lunch break, and the next to the last fiber was in six pieces. So Im gonna pull the pan.the clutch is a piece ah cake , but I"ve never pulled the pan. Any insight on this would be appreciated. Its got yosh 4n2 1s they gotta come of, but what else I"m I going to run into. thanks for any heads up you can give.
 
haven't taken the one off my busa but the one on my GSXR wasn't that hard. You'll probably need to take off the headers, maybe loosten the radiator up to get to those off.
You'll need some sealant for the pan once your ready to put it back on. Not hard at all.

Good luck!
 
The pan is easier than pulling the clutch. The two bolts near the filter are the only long bolts, the rest are the short bolts.

You will want to pull the oil strainer and look at it. Don't get lazy and just try to shine a light up there to see if its blocked with fiber material. Take it off and really look at it, if its covered up then just replace it with a new one.

I got yelled at for using sealant on my gasket from a engine builder once. If you put too much it gets squished into the oil pan and plugs up the stainer. Last week I replaced my broken oil pan and used no sealant on the gasket. Works fine with no leaks.

Lees performance shop (online) sells a windage tray to keep the oil down in the pan for about $30, now is a good time to add it while your in there.

You should not need to touch the headers at the block, only the 4-2 part and 2-1 part.
 
Be sure to take off your oil cooler, it will get blocked from the clutch fibers, be sure to clean it out real good..
 
The pan is easier than pulling the clutch. The two bolts near the filter are the only long bolts, the rest are the short bolts.

You will want to pull the oil strainer and look at it. Don't get lazy and just try to shine a light up there to see if its blocked with fiber material. Take it off and really look at it, if its covered up then just replace it with a new one.

I got yelled at for using sealant on my gasket from a engine builder once. If you put too much it gets squished into the oil pan and plugs up the stainer. Last week I replaced my broken oil pan and used no sealant on the gasket. Works fine with no leaks.

Lees performance shop (online) sells a windage tray to keep the oil down in the pan for about $30, now is a good time to add it while your in there.

You should not need to touch the headers at the block, only the 4-2 part and 2-1 part.
Thanks for the info, sounds like a week end project.
 
What does the windage tray do? haven't heard of that.

It helps to keep oil on the bottom of the pan, it is like a deflector or baffle. If you ride a wheelie or accelerate fast, the oil wants to go to the back of the oil pan away from the oil pickup and it may suck air instead of oil, at least until the oil falls back down near the suction pickup.
 
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