What oil and oil filter you use on your Gen3 and why?

[jdamato]

Mobil Delvac 15-40 heavy duty diesel oil and a napa filter.

 

[sixpack577]

Mobil Delvac 15-40 heavy duty diesel oil and a napa filter.

High zinc, good stuff too

 

[PeregrineKeith]

No gen3, but an '18 Gsxr1k bought new in 4-19, Amsoil break-in oil, then Amsoil 10w30 or 10w40, depending on summer or winter.
It just passed 10k miles, and I put in ceramic transmission and countershaft bearings a month or two ago.
The transmission gears and the clutch looked new, literally, no wear marks anywhere, and the clutch plates measued zero wear.
The bike got a hard break-in, has been dyno tuned and ran hard, but not abused.
It was hard to belive just how clean and new the inside of the engine was.
I have and will use several kinds of synthetic oils, but the Amsoil engines always look great inside.

Because we know you wrench, have you had other motors or transmissions apart that were living with something other than Amsoil that you can speak of. Condition, evidence of wear or even damage?. Obviously wouldn’t stand if you were actually making a full on repair but in the case of the 1k with just being upgraded that would be more fair or appropriate for the purpose of science.
Just looking for some insight

 

[sixpack577]

Because we know you wrench, have you had other motors or transmissions apart that were living with something other than Amsoil that you can speak of. Condition, evidence of wear or even damage?. Obviously wouldn’t stand if you were actually making a full on repair but in the case of the 1k with just being upgraded that would be more fair or appropriate for the purpose of science.
Just looking for some insight

I have worked on several machines since new over the years.
Some with synthetic oil, some with regular oil.
Some really abused, most taken care of.
I don't think that I could gather enough consistant info to say that one brand is any better than another, but I can say that full synthetic oil lasts longer, and has to protect an engine better than standard oil.
This is also mostly visual, but I do measure when and where I can.
I have taken off alot of valve covers, and the synthetic oil engines are always cleaner, and the synthetic oil looks cleaner and holds it's new color longer in the site glass, so it isn't breaking down as quickly as standard oil does.
Could you use standard oil and just change it more often? I don't know, but it would require a controlled test with at least 2 identical machines, run them hard, remove and measure parts, and an oil analyisis.
Alot of the air cooled singles I've seen(4whlrs and dirtbikes) get alot of carbon build up in the engines over time.
But, I have seen a couple run on synthetic since new, and they don't have any carbon build up.
I would say that is because the synthetic oil still performs well at higher temperatures, where conventional oil is beginning to break down.
Again, visuals, not hard numbers.
I got a new Gen2 years ago(08 leftover in 09).
I gave it a hard break-in, and changed the oil within a couple hundred miles, then again at 2k or 2500 to switch to full synthetic(this was 14 years ago, and the standard vs synthetic oil before rings were fully seated debate was going on then too, so standard oil for the first few miles)
I then changed the oil every 2k to 2500 miles after, up to around 17.5k miles when I traded it.
I checked the valves at 15k miles just because, and as I thought, all 16 right in the middle.
The cool thing was, that the engine looked very good, it was brand new clean, with the slightest, but expected wear on the cam lobes.
Just typical light wear from use, so the synthetic again doing well(visually).
I also used Royal Purple every time...and the Automotive version...with friction modifiers/aka wet-clutch killers.
I did that on purpose to see how long it would take to burn the clutch up.
At 17.5k the clutch was still functioning as new...and it never slipped once, ever.
I talked to the guy recently who bought it from where I traded it years ago, he told me that the bike never gave him any problems, and was the best bike of many that he had ever owned....and it had 75k miles on it when he sold it.
That bike also had over a thousand miles of wheelies on it too, and no, I'm not kidding, yes, that's Alot of miles, but, I rode them for anywhere from an 8th mile to 2 miles+, multiple times every ride.
10-11 o'clock
So I would think that if any engine would've shown wear, it would've been that one...but not so.
I have also noticed on alot of different machines, some like this oil, and others do not, they prefer another brand instead.
As one will shift clunky with this brand oil, but swap to that brand, and the shifting becomes very smooth.
Strange? Yes
I can only attribute that to this certain blend of materials and tolerances, just performs better with one oil's exact ingredients vs another's.
And, these are just my observations over 3 decades of doing this, as well as watching those smarter than me.
I don't push one brand of oil over another, just that synthetic appears to do what it claims, function well at temperatures standard oil can't.

 

[PeregrineKeith]

I have worked on several machines since new over the years.
Some with synthetic oil, some with regular oil.
Some really abused, most taken care of.
I don't think that I could gather enough consistant info to say that one brand is any better than another, but I can say that full synthetic oil lasts longer, and has to protect an engine better than standard oil.
This is also mostly visual, but I do measure when and where I can.
I have taken off alot of valve covers, and the synthetic oil engines are always cleaner, and the synthetic oil looks cleaner and holds it's new color longer in the site glass, so it isn't breaking down as quickly as standard oil does.
Could you use standard oil and just change it more often? I don't know, but it would require a controlled test with at least 2 identical machines, run them hard, remove and measure parts, and an oil analyisis.
Alot of the air cooled singles I've seen(4whlrs and dirtbikes) get alot of carbon build up in the engines over time.
But, I have seen a couple run on synthetic since new, and they don't have any carbon build up.
I would say that is because the synthetic oil still performs well at higher temperatures, where conventional oil is beginning to break down.
Again, visuals, not hard numbers.
I got a new Gen2 years ago(08 leftover in 09).
I gave it a hard break-in, and changed the oil within a couple hundred miles, then again at 2k or 2500 to switch to full synthetic(this was 14 years ago, and the standard vs synthetic oil before rings were fully seated debate was going on then too, so standard oil for the first few miles)
I then changed the oil every 2k to 2500 miles after, up to around 17.5k miles when I traded it.
I checked the valves at 15k miles just because, and as I thought, all 16 right in the middle.
The cool thing was, that the engine looked very good, it was brand new clean, with the slightest, but expected wear on the cam lobes.
Just typical light wear from use, so the synthetic again doing well(visually).
I also used Royal Purple every time...and the Automotive version...with friction modifiers/aka wet-clutch killers.
I did that on purpose to see how long it would take to burn the clutch up.
At 17.5k the clutch was still functioning as new...and it never slipped once, ever.
I talked to the guy recently who bought it from where I traded it years ago, he told me that the bike never gave him any problems, and was the best bike of many that he had ever owned....and it had 75k miles on it when he sold it.
That bike also had over a thousand miles of wheelies on it too, and no, I'm not kidding, yes, that's Alot of miles, but, I rode them for anywhere from an 8th mile to 2 miles+, multiple times every ride.
10-11 o'clock
So I would think that if any engine would've shown wear, it would've been that one...but not so.
I have also noticed on alot of different machines, some like this oil, and others do not, they prefer another brand instead.
As one will shift clunky with this brand oil, but swap to that brand, and the shifting becomes very smooth.
Strange? Yes
I can only attribute that to this certain blend of materials and tolerances, just performs better with one oil's exact ingredients vs another's.
And, these are just my observations over 3 decades of doing this, as well as watching those smarter than me.
I don't push one brand of oil over another, just that synthetic appears to do what it claims, function well at temperatures standard oil can't.

Just as I thought! Synthetic is the best!

Just kidding…. Excellent observations! I stick to 3k oil changes on everything except the lawn mower and even it gets changed every season. I was and still am surprised at some of the manufacturers recommendations on service intervals and they do this because the claim is synthetics and build materials are so far superior than in the past.. again, another topic to beat to death but I’ll stick with my synthetic and 3k services.
Thanks six!

 

[sixpack577]

Just as I thought! Synthetic is the best!

Just kidding…. Excellent observations! I stick to 3k oil changes on everything except the lawn mower and even it gets changed every season. I was and still am surprised at some of the manufacturers recommendations on service intervals and they do this because the claim is synthetics and build materials are so far superior than in the past.. again, another topic to beat to death but I’ll stick with my synthetic and 3k services.
Thanks six!

Lol,

Yeah man
and I hear you on factory oil changes.
It seems crazy to me having 10k mile maintenance intervals on somd vehicles.

 

[Bumblebee]

I have worked on several machines since new over the years.
Some with synthetic oil, some with regular oil.
Some really abused, most taken care of.
I don't think that I could gather enough consistant info to say that one brand is any better than another, but I can say that full synthetic oil lasts longer, and has to protect an engine better than standard oil.
This is also mostly visual, but I do measure when and where I can.
I have taken off alot of valve covers, and the synthetic oil engines are always cleaner, and the synthetic oil looks cleaner and holds it's new color longer in the site glass, so it isn't breaking down as quickly as standard oil does.
Could you use standard oil and just change it more often? I don't know, but it would require a controlled test with at least 2 identical machines, run them hard, remove and measure parts, and an oil analyisis.
Alot of the air cooled singles I've seen(4whlrs and dirtbikes) get alot of carbon build up in the engines over time.
But, I have seen a couple run on synthetic since new, and they don't have any carbon build up.
I would say that is because the synthetic oil still performs well at higher temperatures, where conventional oil is beginning to break down.
Again, visuals, not hard numbers.
I got a new Gen2 years ago(08 leftover in 09).
I gave it a hard break-in, and changed the oil within a couple hundred miles, then again at 2k or 2500 to switch to full synthetic(this was 14 years ago, and the standard vs synthetic oil before rings were fully seated debate was going on then too, so standard oil for the first few miles)
I then changed the oil every 2k to 2500 miles after, up to around 17.5k miles when I traded it.
I checked the valves at 15k miles just because, and as I thought, all 16 right in the middle.
The cool thing was, that the engine looked very good, it was brand new clean, with the slightest, but expected wear on the cam lobes.
Just typical light wear from use, so the synthetic again doing well(visually).
I also used Royal Purple every time...and the Automotive version...with friction modifiers/aka wet-clutch killers.
I did that on purpose to see how long it would take to burn the clutch up.
At 17.5k the clutch was still functioning as new...and it never slipped once, ever.
I talked to the guy recently who bought it from where I traded it years ago, he told me that the bike never gave him any problems, and was the best bike of many that he had ever owned....and it had 75k miles on it when he sold it.
That bike also had over a thousand miles of wheelies on it too, and no, I'm not kidding, yes, that's Alot of miles, but, I rode them for anywhere from an 8th mile to 2 miles+, multiple times every ride.
10-11 o'clock
So I would think that if any engine would've shown wear, it would've been that one...but not so.
I have also noticed on alot of different machines, some like this oil, and others do not, they prefer another brand instead.
As one will shift clunky with this brand oil, but swap to that brand, and the shifting becomes very smooth.
Strange? Yes
I can only attribute that to this certain blend of materials and tolerances, just performs better with one oil's exact ingredients vs another's.
And, these are just my observations over 3 decades of doing this, as well as watching those smarter than me.
I don't push one brand of oil over another, just that synthetic appears to do what it claims, function well at temperatures standard oil can't.

What's crazy are the BMWs of my brothers' which have always had dino oil in them and he has never done scheduled oil changes, he checks the oil regularly and when he smells that it's getting dark or burnt, he changes it....

 

[Fernando]

liqui Moly 10w40

 

[Ked0607]

MOTUL 300V and OEM filter. I also use motul for the chain as well.

 

[jellyrug]

For most of us, I don't think one brand of oil, compared to the other will impact the life of the Busa, for how long we will keep the bike.

The only lubrication wear I have ever seen here on the forum, is pitting of the camshafts after a long time. I'm not sure about gearbox wear, as it runs the same oil and a good reason to stick to the viscosities Suzuki recommends.

This is what I did personally, more for fun and out if interest, because really as long as we stick to the specifications from Suzuki it does not matter. From new, I had my oil analysed with every oil change.

From the oil the factory put in the bike new, to Mobil 1 and then to Agip (Moto GP sponsor back in the day) I noticed that the oil still had lots of life left, however the viscosity went down pretty fast. The Mobil 1 10W40, went down to a 25 weight pretty fast, apparently the gearbox being the culprit. The viscosity additive package in these oils are expensive, so the manufacturers try not to price themselves out of the market.

I then tried Silkolene 5W40 and it maintained its viscosity pretty good. So at this point I don't really see the need to try anything different. I change my oil at 5,000 miles intervals and probably once every five years. The bike is garage kept. When the oil analysis comes back after 5 years in the bike, everything still tests fine and there is probably another 5,000 miles of oil life left.

 

[Ked0607]

What's crazy are the BMWs of my brothers' which have always had dino oil in them and he has never done scheduled oil changes, he checks the oil regularly and when he smells that it's getting dark or burnt, he changes it....

When the MOTUL starts getting dark in color im ready to change. Thats right around 2500 miles. Oil is green when its fresh so you know its got crud in it. I push it out to 3k miles but you know when theres fresh oil in the bike.

 

[Bumblebee]

When the MOTUL starts getting dark in color im ready to change. Thats right around 2500 miles. Oil is green when its fresh so you know its got crud in it. I push it out to 3k miles but you know when theres fresh oil in the bike.

I use Royal Purple sometimes so it throws the premise of when it's dark change it out the window because it's dark going in...

I also use Amsoil too-whichever is on sale at the time....but the residue of the Royal Purple darkens it quickly...

So I mainly go by intervals and smell....

 

[WuzzaCBXRider]

When the MOTUL starts getting dark in color im ready to change. Thats right around 2500 miles. Oil is green when its fresh so you know its got crud in it. I push it out to 3k miles but you know when theres fresh oil in the bike.

The fiber clutch plates add to the darkening of the engine oil and has nothing to do with ruining the oil’s ability to perform.

 

[4Ghost]

Dealer said Gen 3 comes with synthetic blend so on my 1st (490 miles) oil change I used Suzuki Ecstar R7000 synthetic blend with OEM filter, for my 2nd (900ish miles) oil change I used the same. About to do a 3,500 mile service and will use OEM filter with R9000 full synthetic. Wanted to put a few thousand miles on before going to full synthetic.

Suzuki Ecstar R5000 = crude oil
Suzuki Ecstar R7000 = synthetic blend
Suzuki Ecstar R9000 = full synthetic

Yes I know almost any oil that meets specs will do the job just fine but I figure if something goes wrong I don’t want Suzuki to say I used the wrong oil.

Unfortunately when it comes to warranties, insurance claims and attorneys I haven’t always come out smelling like a rose.

Ecstar R9000 and Suzuki filter.

 

[KPJ132716]

Motul 7100 10w 40 if I can't find any ,I substitute with bacon oil

 

[Dustin02]

Amsoil and stainless reusable filter.

Why? Because the shop only charges $10 a quart for Amsoil, and I never have to worry about finding another filter when I need one...