Who runs 20w50 oil in their bikes and why?
- Thread starter BUSAnomics
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serious question???
jphilipson
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It's only bad for the clutch if it has friction modifiers in it, otherwise it's fine. Same is true for dino oil - friction modifiers = bad.
johnnyo
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Car oil = friction modifiers, stay away from the car oil!!! I use 15w-50 Suzuki full syn in my Gen1
Regards, John
BikeMasterBahrain
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Im running 20/50 oil in my busa, in this country the oil 10w or 15w goes black within a day + the oil level always decreases on my bikes, so im running a thicker viscosity oil because basically the lower vis is just to low and evpatorates.
In the manual it recommends the 10 or 15 with the excuse that it "may cause" clutch slipage but i havent noticed any slipage since i put it in.
@ the moment im building a K8 busa with an RCC stage one turbo and asked a few places about the oil, i was told that 20/50 petrolum based oil is good for the build till 600miles then i should switch to synthetic 20/50.
My advise is try it, if you notice anything in your bike like clutch slipage then go back to your lower viscosity as nothing else in the engine is that fragile.
just my 2cents
In the manual it recommends the 10 or 15 with the excuse that it "may cause" clutch slipage but i havent noticed any slipage since i put it in.
@ the moment im building a K8 busa with an RCC stage one turbo and asked a few places about the oil, i was told that 20/50 petrolum based oil is good for the build till 600miles then i should switch to synthetic 20/50.
My advise is try it, if you notice anything in your bike like clutch slipage then go back to your lower viscosity as nothing else in the engine is that fragile.
just my 2cents
POS VW
Registered
I'm new here but not to bikes or performance engines and oil
I personally use Shell Rotella T6 5w-40 synthetic. It's the blue jug at Walmart. It's JASO MA approved. It's primarily a diesel oil so it's a high pressure oil with lots of zinc and phosphorus in it. I used it my last bike as well and the engine and gearbox ran much quieter after the switch and gear changes were smoother. Another GREAT oil is Brad Penn 10w-40
I personally use Shell Rotella T6 5w-40 synthetic. It's the blue jug at Walmart. It's JASO MA approved. It's primarily a diesel oil so it's a high pressure oil with lots of zinc and phosphorus in it. I used it my last bike as well and the engine and gearbox ran much quieter after the switch and gear changes were smoother. Another GREAT oil is Brad Penn 10w-40
Some clutches don't like car oils and will slip, but the Busa clutch does fine.
+1
16k hard miles on my 08, and full synthetic car oil(Royal Purple and Mobile1) 10w40 since 2500 miles.
My stock clutch has never slipped and the bike still runs great.
Big Bo
Registered
Wrong. Some Mobil 1 oil does not have the modifiers in it. I use Mobil 1 20/50 or Mobil 1 10/40. Check the bottle or the site to see which has and which does not have friction modifiers.
prayer warrior
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20w/50 here! lucas motorcycle full synthetic oil, never had a problem, it runs smooth and pretty quieter 
squale147
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yup ...the red cap is the one to use...
Tinman's Busa
Registered
Wow car oil. NOT GOOD at all.
I still run car oil as recommended by a well known Pro-Street builder. Mobil 1 changed their formulation after my post that you quoted so I don't use that particular one. I think having like-new bearings on a Gen2 after over 4000 1/4 mile passes would say the right car oil is just fine for a Busa. There is no magic in motorcycle-specific oil. If the clutch holds, car oil is fine.
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