Wider bar options

F

Flows

Donating Member
Registered
Hi folks,

I find I am always hanging on to the ends of the bars. The ZX14R bars are exactly the right width for me so I don't need to go much wider. I also don't want to go lower as I am running out of lower leaver clearance and I really need to be able to lower the levers further to get a comfy grab angle as am already hitting the brake banjos on the fork. Hoping the Brembos will give me a bit more lever down.. I am setting it up to turn more than point and squirt and I do love a bit of Ti and Carbon. Any suggestions? Oh and as much as I hate to admit it I am allergic to inline 4 vibes so damp is also key.. potentially rules carbon out I know (depending on resonant frequency)
 
Flows said:
Hi folks,

I find I am always hanging on to the ends of the bars. The ZX14R bars are exactly the right width for me so I don't need to go much wider. I also don't want to go lower as I am running out of lower leaver clearance and I really need to be able to lower the levers further to get a comfy grab angle as am already hitting the brake banjos on the fork. Hoping the Brembos will give me a bit more lever down.. I am setting it up to turn more than point and squirt and I do love a bit of Ti and Carbon. Any suggestions? Oh and as much as I hate to admit it I am allergic to inline 4 vibes so damp is also key.. potentially rules carbon out I know (depending on resonant frequency)
Click to expand...

the heck

even using the google translator didn´t help me to understand what u wanna tell us (me) with that post.

pls explain me .
 
Flows said:
Hi folks,

I find I am always hanging on to the ends of the bars. The ZX14R bars are exactly the right width for me so I don't need to go much wider. I also don't want to go lower as I am running out of lower leaver clearance and I really need to be able to lower the levers further to get a comfy grab angle as am already hitting the brake banjos on the fork. Hoping the Brembos will give me a bit more lever down.. I am setting it up to turn more than point and squirt and I do love a bit of Ti and Carbon. Any suggestions? Oh and as much as I hate to admit it I am allergic to inline 4 vibes so damp is also key.. potentially rules carbon out I know (depending on resonant frequency)
Click to expand...

Have you considered an aftermarket upper triple-clamp and clip-ons?
You can get clip-ons that are adjustable too, as well as handlebars in diffferent lengths.
Or an ABM top-clamp for dirtbike bars?
I like my levers low as well, and the '18 Gsxr1k('17-'23) has the same lever clearance problem as the Gen3 Busa, that you can only roll the lever forward/down on the bar very little, before the line, master cylinder, and wiring harness get in the way.
Also
If the vibrations bother your hands, aside from heavier bar-end weights, you may want to try a different pair of grips.
Grips are a personal preference, but cheap, so you can go through several until you find an improvement.
I like Pro-Grip 761, they are my favorite, and I have put them on every bike and 4 wheeler I've owned for over a dozen years now, and I have 2 pair on the shelf right now, lol.
They are a medium gel grip, not squishy, not rock solid, and their thickness tapers and varies in diameter across the grip, so they fit my hands very well, and I wear XL gloves, $10-$20 a pair, depending on where you get them.
Pro-Grip also has Alot of grips to chose from, so you can probably find something you like better than stock.
These are the 761 grips on my ABM top-clamp on my '03 Gsxr1k(also put an ABM top-clamp on my Gen2 Busa), and you can see the curve of the grips, vs flat like the bars.

Screenshot_20240115-074910_Gallery.jpg
 
sixpack577 said:
Have you considered an aftermarket upper triple-clamp and clip-ons?
You can get clip-ons that are adjustable too, as well as handlebars in diffferent lengths.
Or an ABM top-clamp for dirtbike bars?
I like my levers low as well, and the '18 Gsxr1k('17-'23) has the same lever clearance problem as the Gen3 Busa, that you can only roll the lever forward/down on the bar very little, before the line, master cylinder, and wiring harness get in the way.
Also
If the vibrations bother your hands, aside from heavier bar-end weights, you may want to try a different pair of grips.
Grips are a personal preference, but cheap, so you can go through several until you find an improvement.
I like Pro-Grip 761, they are my favorite, and I have put them on every bike and 4 wheeler I've owned for over a dozen years now, and I have 2 pair on the shelf right now, lol.
They are a medium gel grip, not squishy, not rock solid, and their thickness tapers and varies in diameter across the grip, so they fit my hands very well, and I wear XL gloves, $10-$20 a pair, depending on where you get them.
Pro-Grip also has Alot of grips to chose from, so you can probably find something you like better than stock.
These are the 761 grips on my ABM top-clamp on my '03 Gsxr1k(also put an ABM top-clamp on my Gen2 Busa), and you can see the curve of the grips, vs flat like the bars.

View attachment 1675992
Click to expand...
yeah 6

that´s what we here call a superbike bar - thx 4 ur pic .
 
Thanks 6, is there a clipon pathway or mods to the existing bars that might get me in the ball park, maybe even preserving the factory isolators? I need about an extra 1.5 - 2 inches and a few degrees less aft. RoadToad1340's Agras / Renthal arrangement might be a place to start maybe. Also where are you getting your ProGrip 761s from these days?
 
Last edited:
Flows said:
Thanks 6, is there a clipon pathway or mods to the existing bars that might get me in the ball park, maybe even preserving the factory isolators? I need about an extra 1.5 - 2 inches and a few degrees less aft. RoadToad1340's Agras / Renthal arrangement might be a place to start maybe. Also where are you getting your ProGrip 761s from these days?
Click to expand...

You could use a riser on top off the upper triple-clamp, under the top clamp/bar mount, and that will gain you at least one inch.
You will not need longer brake and clutch lines with that either, and it's $100-$150 part.
I don't know the details of
@ROADTOAD1340 's clip-ons, but I'm sure they are top shelf...and priced accordingly, lol.
He would have to give you the details on those.
For the Pro-Grip 761's, you can google and find them at crazy prices all over, but I just get them on ebay, and they are usually only $10-$15 a pair shipped.
 
When I lived in So Cal all the cool kids narrowed their bikes for lane splitting by folding the turn signals down. Eek.
 
If anything I would like to keep the height the same and maybe extend the reach very slightly (stupid long arms) all while widening the bars but only by an inch each side max. Will reach out to sir 'Toad.
 
Flows said:
Countach! Look at this nonsense we have to deal with shipping to NZ for tiny parcels... Fleabay was even worse! :banghead:
View attachment 1676139
Click to expand...

I bought 2 pair during covid, and both came from Europe(can't remember the companies), as there were none available in the U.S
I paid $48 for one, and I think $57 for the other.
It made me sick to pay that, but at the time I was worried that they may have had been discontinued, and that I'de never be able to find any more.
They are my long time favorite, so, I got them, as I always like to keep a couple pair on the shelf.
Come to think about it, I had 3 pair, gave one away, have one on the shelf still (need to order more) and the pair on my Gsxr project now, is a covid pair...which justs adds to the total on my long blown budget on that...
lmao
 
Assuming droop and hanging are the same thing and squeezing and aperture = sweep?
Nothing that is actually wider and all seem to be increasing sweep and reducing droop which is the wrong way for me.
 
That leaves the spacer and ABM top clamp...and the ABM kits are very comfortable, and you have alot of different bars to choose from too.
My Gen2

Screenshot_20230525-082741_Gallery.jpg


Screenshot_20230525-082705_Gallery.jpg


Screenshot_20230525-082656_Gallery.jpg
 
Guess I could always just chop, mill, weld and powder coat some new bars in to the original brackets.. Just measured the Zed that fits so well and it is 68cm grip to grip with the busa 63 so it was pretty much exactly an inch each side... Will figure something out.
 
Flows said:
Guess I could always just chop, mill, weld and powder coat some new bars in to the original brackets.. Just measured the Zed that fits so well and it is 68cm grip to grip with the busa 63 so it was pretty much exactly an inch each side... Will figure something out.
Click to expand...

If you can do that, make your bars in the shape of the Gen1 and Gen2 Helibars.
Their outer end is higher than where they fit into the top plate, and they make a noticeable difference on those bikes.
Let me find a picture.
 
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OVER RACING : Sports Riding Handlebar Kit [55-552-11] these are getting close. I assume "handlebar end ratio" is width?? :) Looks to be adjustable for sweep. What I don't understand why all of these Webike front ends insist on reducing droop? I would have thought that more droop = closer to neutral forearm rotation + elbows slightly more in = more control.. I guess if you are building for an Asian market you have to factor in a shorter torso and arm lengths which increase the arm to torso angle and moving the neutral forearm rotation flatter... Am I missing something? Who is the ergo guru on the org?
 
The beauty of the Tubular Bar kits is that you can A) adjust them fore and aft, B) simply swap them for a new bend or color if you like, and C) easily and economically replace them in case of mishaps. I have been through about 8 different bar setups on my bike now, some better than others, but all were better than stock.
1705774408193.png
 
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