mrpmotorsports.com
I didn't go through the entire article.Maybe it was on there as a possible service.Maybe not.
Usually places that sell these ask for your weight to match the spring. Check the part number on the spring but I do think you have a 14kg spring there. Not 100 sure on Ohlins part numbers. For the preload adjusted you can attach it on the exhaust hanger. Might have to buy a preload bracket for it though if it didnt cone with one. Or just zip tie it anywhere with 2 zip ties. Bracket is the preferred option though. How much ya weigh?
I think there's a bracket at the end of the adjuster piece.
I didn't want to say anything but was thinking you were smoking something. You are going to be amazed by those. But get a good guy to adjust them for you. Mine were ok but when adjusted, they were simply astonishing. The OEM setup is basically sag and swag at the damping. These are magic and a knowledgeable person can truly make them otherworldly.Jeeez man,going over my last message.These phone keyboards are a disaster for my stubby fingers.Some words...lossibit was meant to be one of (the most important things)
Thanks.I might bring my forks and shock to my susp guy before fitting it.
Definately do that if you're able.
Here's a link for Racetech calculator on spring rates for the Busa.
What is actually shimmed?Thanks for the info btwHere's a link for Racetech calculator on spring rates for the Busa.
RT - Digital Product Search
racetech.com
Add your weight and it will recommend spring rates. If you take it to your suspension guy remember that any change in spring rates REQUIRES a shim revalving. I went from 1.1 front to 1.3 and the hydraulic curve was all over the place. Basically the top of the stroke is too stiff and the bottom is too soft. So to get the best performance you need to reshim when changing spring rates for maximum performance and safety.
This is a good explanation on spring rates changes and it's effect on the hydraulic curve.
There is a metal piston inside all suspension components in the shape of a circle several MM thick. This piston has various holes in different positions that allow the oil inside the shock to travel thru it. The shim stacks are basically a bunch of washers of different thicknesses and diameter that sit on either side of the piston restricting the flow of fluid depending on the stack shape and height. So when we say reshim the valve means changing the stack and shape of these shims to better allow or restrict the movement of fluid inside the shock at various speeds depending on the spring rate and the speed and ability of the rider. That's why if you see on racetech product page they ask for your riding skill and use. The faster you ride the more the shim stack has to be modified to deal with the increased suspension movements at top speed or lean angles.
Cheers man.Always good to get some info.
Okay you cheap bastard , you called a fella out on his choice of Ohlins , and ends up you packing a plain wrapper twin clicker Penske all along ..... lmao
Ive had a Penske triple on my 2013, for he street the double works great.
Mounts on the foot peg exhaust hanger.
