RedBull
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Worst day ever
- Thread starter greg3852
- Start date
Nastee
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Is that fro the head/block? Oil & gasket should be fine. Forgot u were going today.
Oh boy oh boy oh BOY!!
that hose is the oil feed to the hydraulic cam chain tensioner, the tensioner relies on the oil pressure that hose provides to push out the ratchet bar against the chain guide . . .the ratchet holds the pressure but I hope it didnt slip causing the chain your cam to jump on the sprockets.
I would advise checking the valve timing before starting it.
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202mphbusa
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oil line only adds pressure
ratchet keeps tensioner held in place
FWIW I never had that line off, let me know if you want to double check the cam timing, but it should be fine,
ratchet keeps tensioner held in place
FWIW I never had that line off, let me know if you want to double check the cam timing, but it should be fine,
Don't start it !. I believe that is a crack on the casting that the line is attached to. That is the oiling main for the hydraulic tensioner, main bearings, oil cooler, and camshaft oiling supply. If I am correct, a new engine case is in order. Look at the oil line, and then just above it, there's an irregular seam. Look again, I believe you have a stress fracture. Did the motor fall over with the exhaust off, or something while you had it on the floor ?. That crack was venting full pressure oil supply. Easy to miss until it severed completely. Tell me I'm in error here.
. I’ll know here in about an hour or so. Gonna sneak home while I’m working to tighten line fill oil back up and try to start it. If it’s junk then it’s junk. I tried to manually turn it over this morning and of course the aluminum cover stripped so I couldn’t get to the bolt. So I’ll tap the starter and see what happens. Broken is broken.
You May be exactly right
You May be exactly right
Yessir. That's exactly what I am referring to. I don't think welding is an option without taking the case halves apart, and having a machine shop inspect it. It might be salvageable. Find a good welder, and see what he says. Honestly, it's at the end of the galley. It doesn't have to be straight. That line is the only thing it supplies oil to on that end. My concern is more about the loss of pressure to the rest of the motor, and components, i.e. main bearings, rod bearings, camshaft bearings, lobes and tappets, piston sprayers, rings, transmission, etc....
I have had welding repairs done to Busa cases before. My machine shop guy is awesome though. He knows metal-qualities, and characteristics.
The interesting question is what hit it ?. What did it hit ?. Did the bike fall over, and strike that area ?. Did the motor hit something while it was out of the frame ?. The fitting that banjo bolt (oil pressure supply line to the tensioner) screws into seats with a crush washer on the end of that galley. It doesn't need that much torque. It would have stripped before cracking the casting.
Now I'm a purist, I'd pull the motor, swap cases, and build fresh. Or, you find a good used bottom end, and swap top end components. Inspect everything for abnormal wear though. "Everything". You really need to have a good look at it with the headers off, and fairings out of the way, but to repair it, that motor should come out.
It can be fixed one way or another. I got laid down a few years back by a wreckless driver who left me for dead on the freeway. Cracked the case open, and all. I took my time, worked with my budget, and got it back to perfect. The rest of my body is a little screwed, but the bike is tight once again. Look into your options !.
I have had welding repairs done to Busa cases before. My machine shop guy is awesome though. He knows metal-qualities, and characteristics.
The interesting question is what hit it ?. What did it hit ?. Did the bike fall over, and strike that area ?. Did the motor hit something while it was out of the frame ?. The fitting that banjo bolt (oil pressure supply line to the tensioner) screws into seats with a crush washer on the end of that galley. It doesn't need that much torque. It would have stripped before cracking the casting.
Now I'm a purist, I'd pull the motor, swap cases, and build fresh. Or, you find a good used bottom end, and swap top end components. Inspect everything for abnormal wear though. "Everything". You really need to have a good look at it with the headers off, and fairings out of the way, but to repair it, that motor should come out.
It can be fixed one way or another. I got laid down a few years back by a wreckless driver who left me for dead on the freeway. Cracked the case open, and all. I took my time, worked with my budget, and got it back to perfect. The rest of my body is a little screwed, but the bike is tight once again. Look into your options !.
202mphbusa
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Did a rod come thru the case? or did something hit the case and brake it?
Really sorry man. You really worked hard on her.
202mphbusa
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I have a set of cases in my basement
Tenderfoot
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Man, that hurt me to read this. I know you'll be back riding soon.
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