ok just some basic pointers on what to do (or what not to do)
(DISCLAIMER)
A bit of common sense is required on any job.. this is a seemingly simple job but can result in major engine damage if something silly happens. Do not leave your motor open to the world any longer than necessary and make sure you have the proper tools and parts.. If I missed something feel free to add on here. I am just trying cover some basics..
This is not a specific "hayabusa" instruction but a basic for any aluminum head motor..
____
First removing spark-plug wires/boots/coils.. when ever possible, give the boots a twist until you feel the silicone boot break free of the spark plug.. this will help alleviate torn spark plug boot issues.
After you feel the boot free up, use a straight up pulling motion and pull on the boot itself, never pull on the wire, they are made of glass strands and carbon and damage very easily.
After the wires/coils are off the plugs, it is important to clean out the plug wells before trying to remove the spark plug.
More often than not, you will find pieces of rock and debris from the road laying there just waiting to jump in the hole after the plug is out..
Ask anyone that has had one of these small pebbles fall into a motor what happens next... Not pretty, (smashed ring lands, bent valves and other catastrophic failure is not uncommon.
Use an air hose and blow them out THOUROUGLY... if you do not have air at home, at the very least get a small mirror and a flashlight to verify things are clean.. only takes a second and can save you hundreds of dollars in repairs..
Use a proper plug socket to remove the plug, (Lefty loosy, righty tighty)
Prep the new plugs (make sure you have the right plugs, the wrong ones can be a disaster)
After inspecting new plugs for any "cracks" in the insulators or other defects you can go about gapping them.
Now double check that this is the correct spark plug, in fact triple check.. wrong plugs can ruin your day (and motor) (did i say that already?)
Gapping plugs... You will find more often than not that plugs are gapped correctly right out of the box (well unless you buy Delco) A visual inspection will tell you if they are OK or not.. The electrodes should be parallel to each other as in the photo below.
If they need adjusted, use one of the plug gapping tools you buy at the parts store for a buck.. Using feeler gauges is just a pain and not really necessary. To close the gap on a plug that is too wide, you can take the plug and tap it on your work bench a couple times (electrode down) to bend the wire down.
Look at this pic, you can see that the two are in fact parallel.. This came out of the box like this..(perfectly fine for install) I would not even check this plugs actual clearance.
Now for ANY ALUMINUM head motor a second step is required.. a small dab of anti-seize should be applied..(no oil is not the same and is not a good substitute). When I say small dab, I mean small..
Anti-seize can also ruin a plug if it gets on the electrodes, use caution here.. In fact look closely at this photo, there is anti-seize on the first thread.. it should be cleaned off first (it can run down the plug and foul the tip)
Installing: You should use a small piece of fuel line or a "rubber plug starter" when installing any spark plug. A short length of fuel line will give you enough feel on the plug to tell if there is an issue with cross threading etc. NEVER force a plug into the threads, if it will not go in easily by finger, there is something wrong. (Professional techs excluded here, they have a feel that comes with installing hundreds of plugs and can tell even through a socket that something is wrong, do not have a heart attack when you see a guy that does this all day use a socket)
Run the plug down until it contacts the head (you can feel it stop)
pull the rubber hose off the plug
using a "real spark plug socket" tighten the "new" spark plug an additional 1/4 turn. Used spark plugs only turn down about 1/16 to 1/8th of a turn as the crush washer is already compressed.
Also, a "real" spark plug socket is designed to protect the porcelain insulator. Just an added level of security.. If you use a regular socket, be extremely careful not to tip the socket side to side.
Optional Stuff:
Dielectric silicone... (this stuff is required in my opinion) This is not sealant but a grease. You get this at any auto parts store. You put a small dab (pea size) on the spark plug boot and give the boot a squeeze to distribute it around the inside. It will seal the plug from moisture, lubricate the boot, and make life easier next time around as the boot will not stick to the plug. It also seals out any moisture.
(DISCLAIMER)
A bit of common sense is required on any job.. this is a seemingly simple job but can result in major engine damage if something silly happens. Do not leave your motor open to the world any longer than necessary and make sure you have the proper tools and parts.. If I missed something feel free to add on here. I am just trying cover some basics..
This is not a specific "hayabusa" instruction but a basic for any aluminum head motor..
____
First removing spark-plug wires/boots/coils.. when ever possible, give the boots a twist until you feel the silicone boot break free of the spark plug.. this will help alleviate torn spark plug boot issues.
After you feel the boot free up, use a straight up pulling motion and pull on the boot itself, never pull on the wire, they are made of glass strands and carbon and damage very easily.
After the wires/coils are off the plugs, it is important to clean out the plug wells before trying to remove the spark plug.
More often than not, you will find pieces of rock and debris from the road laying there just waiting to jump in the hole after the plug is out..
Ask anyone that has had one of these small pebbles fall into a motor what happens next... Not pretty, (smashed ring lands, bent valves and other catastrophic failure is not uncommon.
Use an air hose and blow them out THOUROUGLY... if you do not have air at home, at the very least get a small mirror and a flashlight to verify things are clean.. only takes a second and can save you hundreds of dollars in repairs..
Use a proper plug socket to remove the plug, (Lefty loosy, righty tighty)
Prep the new plugs (make sure you have the right plugs, the wrong ones can be a disaster)
After inspecting new plugs for any "cracks" in the insulators or other defects you can go about gapping them.
Now double check that this is the correct spark plug, in fact triple check.. wrong plugs can ruin your day (and motor) (did i say that already?)
Gapping plugs... You will find more often than not that plugs are gapped correctly right out of the box (well unless you buy Delco) A visual inspection will tell you if they are OK or not.. The electrodes should be parallel to each other as in the photo below.
If they need adjusted, use one of the plug gapping tools you buy at the parts store for a buck.. Using feeler gauges is just a pain and not really necessary. To close the gap on a plug that is too wide, you can take the plug and tap it on your work bench a couple times (electrode down) to bend the wire down.
Look at this pic, you can see that the two are in fact parallel.. This came out of the box like this..(perfectly fine for install) I would not even check this plugs actual clearance.
Now for ANY ALUMINUM head motor a second step is required.. a small dab of anti-seize should be applied..(no oil is not the same and is not a good substitute). When I say small dab, I mean small..
Anti-seize can also ruin a plug if it gets on the electrodes, use caution here.. In fact look closely at this photo, there is anti-seize on the first thread.. it should be cleaned off first (it can run down the plug and foul the tip)
Installing: You should use a small piece of fuel line or a "rubber plug starter" when installing any spark plug. A short length of fuel line will give you enough feel on the plug to tell if there is an issue with cross threading etc. NEVER force a plug into the threads, if it will not go in easily by finger, there is something wrong. (Professional techs excluded here, they have a feel that comes with installing hundreds of plugs and can tell even through a socket that something is wrong, do not have a heart attack when you see a guy that does this all day use a socket)
Run the plug down until it contacts the head (you can feel it stop)
pull the rubber hose off the plug
using a "real spark plug socket" tighten the "new" spark plug an additional 1/4 turn. Used spark plugs only turn down about 1/16 to 1/8th of a turn as the crush washer is already compressed.
Also, a "real" spark plug socket is designed to protect the porcelain insulator. Just an added level of security.. If you use a regular socket, be extremely careful not to tip the socket side to side.
Optional Stuff:
Dielectric silicone... (this stuff is required in my opinion) This is not sealant but a grease. You get this at any auto parts store. You put a small dab (pea size) on the spark plug boot and give the boot a squeeze to distribute it around the inside. It will seal the plug from moisture, lubricate the boot, and make life easier next time around as the boot will not stick to the plug. It also seals out any moisture.
