YOU DON'T NEED POWER COMMANDER

Sorry, I didn't read the bit you quoted. Is "cable (under the seat) which lets you connect the bike with a programmer" different to the "Suzuki Access Port connector", also under the seat and into which the TEKA plugs?

I thought both were the same 7-pin plug with a cover over it but if I'm wrong I apologise and withdraw point (1), otherwise I still can't work out what I've done to deserve a bollocking.

The dyno operator is proving to a very nice guy to email back and forth, makes a pleasant change after this. Still not sure what's up with that dyno but I'm confident he knows what he's doing. Odd.
 
There are two reasons why you are getting so much attention. The first is that the graph you are using to support your conclusions is HIGHLY suspect. We have found a number of things at issue with it, and you have in fact cleared up a few of them. But not all of them. The second is the conclusion itself. Stating that changing the map inside the ECU is better than influencing it outside the ECU is just plain wrong. There is nothing wrong with the Yosh box or the TEKA, but the Power Commander is better.

BTW, the description didn't fit the TEKA because the guy said that ''all Suzuki dealers had it''. Most, if not all, dealers own a Yosh box. Only a few own a TEKA.
 
Ok now that my 4hours of reading are complete.
Yosh BOX not EMS does big percents so you can get close but it is crude. the reason I asked for the A/F graph on the YOSH box is that it will follow the stock map.
Second the TEKA does not offer any timing and if you knew anything is the Busa needs both advance and retard.
the other reason for an A/F chart was it is easy to get big gains on the dyno if your A/F is around 13.5:1 but you will be slower than a 750 on the street.
Your A/F should be around 12.7-12.9:1.
I was slamming the graphs due to the numbers are way off.
What type of dyno was it?
 
There's so much wrong with what you've said it's not funny but you guys will keep arguing until you 'win' and go away and pat each other on the back.

But thanks very much for agreeing that the gains on the dyno ARE real.

I've requested that my membership be cancelled so please don't waste everyone's time replying.

Geoff.

cancel.jpg
 
Then why are there so many people buying these PC's. Are you still able to maneuver the power between low, mid and high range? Is it just as fast to do as with say the PCIII? About to purchase one and would hate to lose money on it if not needed.
 
There's so much wrong with what you've said it's not funny but you guys will keep arguing until you 'win' and go away and pat each other on the back.

But thanks very much for agreeing that the gains on the dyno ARE real.

I've requested that my membership be cancelled so please don't waste everyone's time replying.

Geoff.
sorry you feel that way.
But I was refering to the Yosh box not EMS or TEKA. as for your graphs I question them due to 500+ torque is flat out wrong so why would anyone beleive what you are saying.
I do understand how the TEKA works you made it sound like you had the Yosh box not a TEKA but no one over here has wanted to put the time into seeing if it does. that is why I am asking for A/F graphs again.
I would really like to see if it does work and how much time it took to map it. some real graphs would be nice
 
They are not geoffs graphs they are mine.
I have posted all the documents I got from the bike shop.

I don't care if you believe them or not because I'm not
trying to prove anything.

I'm here to share experiences and learn which becomes very
hard when you are called a liar for doing just that.

I'm off monitoring this topic now, because my original posting
never got answered.

Jim.
 
They are not geoffs graphs they are mine.
I have posted all the documents I got from the bike shop.

I don't care if you believe them or not because I'm not
trying to prove anything.

I'm here to share experiences and learn which becomes very
hard when you are called a liar for doing just that.

I'm off monitoring this topic now, because my original posting
never got answered.

Jim.
he did answer them do you want me to copy and pate them?:super:??
 
Does New Zealand use the Metric system or are they still in the dark ages like the U.S. ? I ask because that may explain the wild Torque figures at the rear wheel if we are talking Newton Meters or something else. I have also heard of another uh sort of measurement for torque, not related to pure engine numbers but extrapolated out into relative..Uh..Pull...or work numbers or something I lost it here... But instead of just showing torque curves it shows the felt effect?? Does that sound right...What am I trying to say....Hell I lost it...

Oh and do not let Johnycheese rattle you, he's a good egg, Welcome to the board!
 
Thanks Revlis,  you're a breath of fresh air!  Yup we're metric here but not out of the dark ages completely.

This is GEOFF by the way,  not Jim who owns the bike in question.  I was talked out of cancelling my membership by cache who explained that these sorts of cheesey postings cause this exact problem ALL the time.  I get the impression it's the non-cheeses he'd rather keep so here I am sorry.

Those torque figures look fine to me.  If they were crank figures I'd be horrified,  but as they show a final gearing of 4.441 that is the amount by which the crank torque was multiplied just as it is the factor by which the revs were reduced from crank to wheel.

So the rear wheel was spinning at 1/4.441 times crank speed and the crank torque was 551/4.441 = 124lbs/ft.  The stock busa is 102lbs/ft at 7,000, adjust for the dyno overreading 33% and at the crank Jim is only making 93lbs/ft which is slightly low if anything but the 33% is rough.

If you can't exactly reconcile their 4.441 final drive with the Busa's stock ratios it's because they remove the rear wheel and provide their own rear sprocket with a different number of teeth. The bike was in fifth as all Busa runs should be because as you guys will already know you have to avoid the famous timing retard in the lower gears and the limiter in sixth.

We'll calculate the rear wheel horsepower from the rear wheel torque because I love doing this!  Forgive me if I try teaching anyone how to suck eggs,  this is aimed at 'good eggs' that suck :)

Let's put a 1 foot spanner on Jim's back wheel while the engine is pulling 7,484 in the 4.441 overall ratio gear. Measure the circumference the spanner scribes in one rev to determine distance per revolution, 75.39816 inches.  Determine the wheel speed - from their final drive ratio it must be doing 7,484/4.441 which is 1,685rpm.

Sanity check - 124mph road speed is shown on the torque graph.  That's 198kph (sorry!) which is 198,000 meters per hour which is 3,306 meters per minute, divided by 1,685rpm which is what the wheel is doing gives a wheel circumference of 1.96 meters which I think is pretty right but if not it doesn't matter because the wheel isn't on the bike on this dyno, so their road speed relies on them entering the circumference anyway and they may not have been right.  But that's really close and just suggests nothing is horribly wrong so far.

Okay so the wheel is doing 1,685rpm and I'm now satisified that this correlates to their indicated road speed.

In one minute therefore the tip of the spanner will have travelled 75.396 x 1,685 inches = 127,057 inches (10,588 feet in one minute).

If we now apply our pressure of 551 lbs to the tip of the spanner,  given the handy 1 foot length of the spanner I chose,  we are now applying 551lbs/ft of torque to the wheel over a distance of 10,588 feet per minute.

One horsepower is the effort required to raise 33,000lbs a distance of 1 foot in 1 minute.  What we are now doing is applying 551lbs of force over 10588 feet in one minute.

So we are travelling 10,588 times the distance and lifing 551/33,000 of the weight of one horsepower.

That equates to 551/33000*10588 which is 176bhp.  Correcting for the 33% overreading dyno we get 132bhp at 7,484rpm which I think is spot on.

More importantly,  if you now look at the horsepower graph and look up 176bhp you will find the revs at that point are 7,484rpm (well, hard to be exact with a rained-on inkjet printout but real close).

Do you guys not get to see the raw rear wheel readings on your dyno runs or something?  Or do you not get your bikes dynoed?  From all the talk it sounds like everyone's a dyno expert so I'm surprised you're not familiar with rear wheel torque figures and the effect gearing has on them.

Finally,  let's change gear for a laugh.

At the same 7,484rpm in first gear we are obviously still making the same horsepower at the wheel as we were in fifth give or take one or two for losses or gains perhaps.  The ratio has changed from the 1.136:1 of fifth to the 2.615:1 of first.  That reduces the wheel speed from 1,685rpm to 1685 x 1.136 / 2.615 = 732rpm,  with an attendant increase in torque due to the increased mechanical advantage to a new high of 551 x 2.615 / 1.136 = 1,268 lbs/ft.

Which is why they retard the timing in the lower gears, and why you can wheelie first easily but not sixth despite making the same horsepower in all gears at a given engine speed.

Sorry if this is all basic,  I get carried away,  but there may be some readers for whom it is new and interesting that that - not pointscoring - is why we're all here isn't it?

Geoff. Not Jim. Geoff.
 
infieldg,
  I appreciate all your effort here.  I think that maybe I am not the only one who hasn't had a chance to see the raw numbers like that.  Especially in Ftlbs, a real eye opener when were talking actual forces.  

 I for one really do appreciate you breaking it down.  I was a little confused reading through this argument so I went and found this online  <span style='color:blue'>Revsearch Torque/Horsepower.</span>  And it helped me understand the numbers in the charts above. I knew that HP is a function of torque, but exactly how that is worked out I didn't know...
 
However there are tons of folks here that are a whole lot more knowledgeable than I in regards to tuning and hard engine sciences.  But hey, different strokes, differen't folks right?  I think if everyone just slowed down a little bit and realized we are all talking about fun stuff, things might be a little more entertaining...  

Again thanks for the information, don't leave, just take certain posts with a grain of salt...sometimes.  It's a real peaceful board over all..

Rev.
 
Thank you for posting that.
I guess I am spoiled that my computer does all the math for me. I did not need the full read but knowing that the dyno you are using is no converting it for you now makes sense as to the weird numbers.
Is that the dyno that has the data logging on it??? That was the one I wanted but I did not have 50K laying around
 
I've never seen a dyno operator give a customer a graph with rear wheel torque on it. The number is almost totally useless for a customer to make any comparisons of that bike to any other bike, or that bike to it's own previous dyno runs (unless the gearing was exactly the same).

BTW, why display raw data and the gear ratio? Why not just do the division in the computer before printing? And if posting a chart with non-standard output, why not add a disclaimer? It would have avoided a lot of this. Or even better, way back when the chart was questioned, you could have stopped the discussion in its tracks by saying ''That's rear wheel torque.''
 
That's a pretty handy site, thanks for that. You're absolutely right it's utterly meaningless to the owner but it's commonly how it's done here, god knows why. I expect the dyno operator explained the figures to Jim, and Jim didn't feel it necessary to pass on that information because he was posting the requested horsepower graph that happened to have a torque graph next to it.

Thanks,
Geoff.
 
:rulez: . . . . . man oh man . . . . as usual . . . no common opinion. Lots of female-like *****ing though. Can't we all tune in harmony?
 
Actually . . . . this is what I know about a power commander. I out slip-ons on my bike. I add a power commander. The gains I "felt" were subtle . . . but there. And alot smoother over all rev ranges.
I did have it on the dyno . . . but only to assure myself that it was fueling properly overall. It was. Perfectly.
Did I gain any horsepower? I have no idea. I never looked at the readout to even see if that was on there . . . or I didn't know what it meant if it was. I think I may have gained 1 or 2 BHP by the feel. Nothing extremely noteworthy, though.
What I didn't gain was . . . . smooth, "just off idle" throttle response.
Which my bike hasn't had . . . ever. And was more pronounced as soon as I removed the stock cans.
I have recently added some even more unrestricted slip-ons & am about to find a new dyno guy . . . who really knows how to use that tool (which makes all the difference in the world). Not all of them do. At all.
IF . . however . . . anybody has an opinion on low end throttle response, the ecu, my power commander, etc., I'd be interested in getting yelled at & berated (CHEESEMAN !).
Whatever it takes. :-):whistle:
 
Why I am "digging up" old posts?
#1. They aren't old to me.
#2. Cuzz I'm new & browsing
#3. They are still interesting
#4. Because I can
And thanks for the greeting.:welcome:
 
Back
Top