ali123
Banned
cant remember exactlty…. but here are some from japan webbike…. just pay attention to what mm u need... 100 or 108.... AGRAS : Caliper Support [318-369-000]
10-Year Anniversary Freshen-up
- Thread starter fallenarch
- Start date
RedBull
Registered
Where is
deals gap ?
Miguel we could
put our bikes back to back
and be the oort metallic gray twins . . .
Laugh out loud . . .
As long as you
do not go to
my front !
TurboBusa0704
Registered
Thank you
This is a video I made from my second trip to the dragon. YouTube screwed it up by stripping the music and all the sound off because they said it wasn't licensed music content. Ah to be young and fast again....
michael parris heuberger
Registered
HI Arch to to my post [ my very slow build. ] See if you like what I did to my gen2 rear foot pegs.
I always wanted to do that ceramic Coating on mine, but I would do the end cap that the mid pipe slides into as well. A member here did everything on his R77, including the hanger and riveted straps and looked great IMHO.
Yeah but I don't want to pop the rivets. I have a cheap rivet gun and that won't be pretty! I'm also trying to close this project down so I can actually ride it this Summer!
This is mostly an aesthetic ceramic coating because I'm only doing the mid-pipe. Other than making the foot a little cooler it does nothing. My coater said the ceramic coating would stand up to abuse as well as or better than the powder coating and be oblivious to heat obviously. Oh and he said same price for such a small part.
This is mostly an aesthetic ceramic coating because I'm only doing the mid-pipe. Other than making the foot a little cooler it does nothing. My coater said the ceramic coating would stand up to abuse as well as or better than the powder coating and be oblivious to heat obviously. Oh and he said same price for such a small part.
I wonder if the carbon can stand the heat in the oven. I mean, is an exhaust after all. Wonder if they could do it while still on the muffler and just bake the whole thing.
I think I'll leave it like it is. To be honest it doesn't bother me that much, at least not enough to tear into the R77.
Nastee
Registered
I don't care for most CF front fenders on the bike; look great alone but not the punch you would expect on & forget matching. This here is the EXCEPTION, WOW a tasteful punch to the gut just to grab your attention. Dam nice Will the blue is perfect.....!!!! Now I just need to get them to make a RED one.
They do have a red. Note that none of the colors are straight up they have a complexity to them. Note that the color stuff requires you go 100% CF rather than a CF layer on fiberglass, which is more expensive. You could also make one. All you need is a regular CF fender and add a red tinted clear coat.
Color Options
www.motocomposites.com
Progress to date. Struggling to recreate the magic in those photoshop images! All parts to powder/ceramic coater. Should be done in a week or so. Waiting on rear brake parts and swingarm bearing kit to put the rear back together. When all is together I will start on fluids and the QS install. Been dragging on the electricals as I'm tired of doing that (wired the two bikes several times)
More progress. This is a lot more work than I expected. I do enjoy this sort of thing though.
Thoughts on Braking:
Braking is a lot more than stopping a bike. It’s about feel, control (including suspension), repeatability (fade) as well as ultimate strength. But those are general brake qualities which can be applied to most any braking scenario, so what are the “braking scenarios” and how does that impact the selection of braking equipment?
When I am riding the back roads, even at a pretty smart pace I use the brakes very little. Fast touring riders maintain a fast average speed, it’s not stop and go. Generally speaking, I like to keep as close to a 65 mph average speed as possible. Believe it or not, a 65 mph average is quite fast on non-highway public roads! Maintaining a high average speed means not using the brakes, and in most cases I use engine braking to get the bike slowed for a turn – tapping a little brake here and there when necessary or trail braking when the engine can’t get things slowed down sufficiently or a corner surprises me. I think great backroad brakes are basically focused on brake feel. I can’t even remember having a fade problem even with the stock brakes and the bike loaded up.
Racing is completely different. The goal is to maximize the time spent accelerating and minimize the time spent on the brakes. So aside from controlling the attitude of the bike, braking is almost always maximum braking to get down to the desired speed as quickly as possible. There is a critical thing to note for track braking, generally speaking it’s planned. There is a huge difference between panic braking and maximum braking, but the differences are more rider skill than equipment related. For the track, I think feel and fade are primary. Obviously power is critical too but you can only use power up to the point of no traction, and you can lose the front with most any brakes these days.
I don’t think brakes matter at all at the drag strip. In fact they are so low on the priority list that many remove one of the front calipers. Enough said, lol!
Finally I think the street is a really demanding braking environment. You need a lot of control and power when you need it. A highly skilled urban street rider will be able to hold good average speeds (I’m not a good urban rider and don’t care to be), unexpected stops are inevitable. For the street you need good all around brakes. Ultimate power and fade resistance are not as critical as they are on the track, but street brakes need to be progressive and robust.
I’ve said many times that if you aren’t going to get the suspension properly setup, there’s no need to waste a lot of money on brakes. When you grab a hand full of lever the bike dives onto the front wheel, and how the suspension handles this is where positive, confident stopping happens. Even some tires handle this weight transfer better than others. Notice that when the front end compresses under braking the bike turns much easier as the shorter forks change the bikes geometry. If the minute you touch the brake the front of the bike collapses, you will not have good light braking feel. Also level control should be light, with not too much lever travel. Remember you have to work the lever while working the throttle, so fine braking adjustments should be a 1 to 2 finger effort.
I’m not going to talk about positioning the bike here. Things like sliding, wheelies, leveling the chassis and low speed pivots all mostly fall into the feel category for brakes.
Those are my thoughts on what I call good braking. The brakes I’m putting on the Busa now should far exceed these performance requirements and my only worry is that I can keep enough heat in them to keep them in their best operating temperature range. To be honest, a good radial MC and braded lines will fix the Busa’s brakes. Add M4 Brembo calipers (or something comparable) and you have a great set of brakes for all around riding and occasional track time too.
Braking is a lot more than stopping a bike. It’s about feel, control (including suspension), repeatability (fade) as well as ultimate strength. But those are general brake qualities which can be applied to most any braking scenario, so what are the “braking scenarios” and how does that impact the selection of braking equipment?
When I am riding the back roads, even at a pretty smart pace I use the brakes very little. Fast touring riders maintain a fast average speed, it’s not stop and go. Generally speaking, I like to keep as close to a 65 mph average speed as possible. Believe it or not, a 65 mph average is quite fast on non-highway public roads! Maintaining a high average speed means not using the brakes, and in most cases I use engine braking to get the bike slowed for a turn – tapping a little brake here and there when necessary or trail braking when the engine can’t get things slowed down sufficiently or a corner surprises me. I think great backroad brakes are basically focused on brake feel. I can’t even remember having a fade problem even with the stock brakes and the bike loaded up.
Racing is completely different. The goal is to maximize the time spent accelerating and minimize the time spent on the brakes. So aside from controlling the attitude of the bike, braking is almost always maximum braking to get down to the desired speed as quickly as possible. There is a critical thing to note for track braking, generally speaking it’s planned. There is a huge difference between panic braking and maximum braking, but the differences are more rider skill than equipment related. For the track, I think feel and fade are primary. Obviously power is critical too but you can only use power up to the point of no traction, and you can lose the front with most any brakes these days.
I don’t think brakes matter at all at the drag strip. In fact they are so low on the priority list that many remove one of the front calipers. Enough said, lol!
Finally I think the street is a really demanding braking environment. You need a lot of control and power when you need it. A highly skilled urban street rider will be able to hold good average speeds (I’m not a good urban rider and don’t care to be), unexpected stops are inevitable. For the street you need good all around brakes. Ultimate power and fade resistance are not as critical as they are on the track, but street brakes need to be progressive and robust.
I’ve said many times that if you aren’t going to get the suspension properly setup, there’s no need to waste a lot of money on brakes. When you grab a hand full of lever the bike dives onto the front wheel, and how the suspension handles this is where positive, confident stopping happens. Even some tires handle this weight transfer better than others. Notice that when the front end compresses under braking the bike turns much easier as the shorter forks change the bikes geometry. If the minute you touch the brake the front of the bike collapses, you will not have good light braking feel. Also level control should be light, with not too much lever travel. Remember you have to work the lever while working the throttle, so fine braking adjustments should be a 1 to 2 finger effort.
I’m not going to talk about positioning the bike here. Things like sliding, wheelies, leveling the chassis and low speed pivots all mostly fall into the feel category for brakes.
Those are my thoughts on what I call good braking. The brakes I’m putting on the Busa now should far exceed these performance requirements and my only worry is that I can keep enough heat in them to keep them in their best operating temperature range. To be honest, a good radial MC and braded lines will fix the Busa’s brakes. Add M4 Brembo calipers (or something comparable) and you have a great set of brakes for all around riding and occasional track time too.
Today's Progress
Today's progress.
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