10-Year Anniversary Freshen-up
- Thread starter fallenarch
- Start date
white.Busa
Registered
Your Busa Gen 2.5, is masterpiece my friend. Congratulations and enjoy it!
Hey @c10
I have an idea. I talked to the engineers here at work and they agree with me that the axle is mainly stressed in shear between the thrust blocks and the bearings. The rest of the axle does mostly nothing. It would be interesting to take the OEM Axle and drill it with holes in the center part of the axle shaft. I bet you could get it as light as the titanium axle with no significant reduction in strength. What say you? Won't be as sexy though....
Mr Brown
Registered
So how much would you lose by drilling a titanium axle the same way?
Well didn't want to get too technical but if you modeled the part you could analyze its internal stress and figure out how to drill parts of the shaft to get certain performance characteristics. I think no one has probably bothered to do this on a bike like the Busa. I bet you could cut all sorts of metal off the bike and make it much lighter. The Titanium is a bit closer o the lower limits in the metal stresses, so I would not mess with it. But if I was racing or doing LSR I would definitely be looking at the drill!
Mr Brown
Registered
Why do you say that titanium is closer to the lower limit of metal stresses? If you drill the unstressed area of the part, why does it matter?
Well I don't know without modeling it and finding out what the stresses are and where the metal is needed. Titanium is definitely different, you can feel that on the bike. It's smoother, more fluid. So is that because its less stiff or maybe because of how it flexes? Who knows. That's how the GP guys do it. They make a billet piece of the frame and carve it away until they get the properties they want. All way to complicated for this guy but still interesting as hell.
At the outer edges of the axle the stress is shear and the best thing for that is metal. But in the middle the axle is just connecting the 2 sides of the swingarm and that should be an axial flow of stress through the skin of the tube. Those stresses are probably smaller and would flow around the drilled holes, I think.
Crazy stuff but just thinking out loud.
Make sense to me when you think of what the axle is actually doing.
c10
Registered
Most times what's done is thinning of a shaft. Like the steering tube, and fork tubes.
Thick @ point of stress, but thinner in center areas with less or no stress.
I imagine since all are gun drilled the stock structure is slightly stronger than needed for a margin of safety.
Rather than drill it would be better to turn down the center 25% of wall thickness.
I'm not a engineer though, and I'm sure there is a formula to get it right over my shade tree guess
Thick @ point of stress, but thinner in center areas with less or no stress.
I imagine since all are gun drilled the stock structure is slightly stronger than needed for a margin of safety.
Rather than drill it would be better to turn down the center 25% of wall thickness.
I'm not a engineer though, and I'm sure there is a formula to get it right over my shade tree guess
Dopey
Registered
Not quite the same but looks like this chick trying to steal your design @fallenarch . Funny part about that bike is there's a video floating around where a guy drive it into wet cement. I thought it was an old video till I found ot the girl who owned it lives in my city and I never seen it but she traded for a gixxer 600 and the guy ran into wet cement on his way home from picking it up.
Tenderfoot
Registered
@fallenarch I'll be referencing your thread and asking questions as I slowly, (very slowly) upgrade my 50k+ mile Gen1 over the coming years!
Thanks for documenting your journey!
Thanks for documenting your journey!
Man you just can't make this stuff up! When I getting the bike all back together, I noticed the dust cover for the swingarm bearings laying by the right of the swingarm pivot. So I too it out of there and went for a ride without it. But it was bothering me that the assembly was not perfect and decided it had to be put back in. This meant taking the back end of the bike apart again and re-assembling it. Well I was really not in a mood for that task and needed to get back focused on work. So I took it to a shop to do the work. I figured while they were doing this they could give the QS a try as well as the rear thumb brake. Well now, 7 weeks later the bike is still sitting in the shop waiting for the correct cable from Healtech. Apparently Healtech changed the USA distributor and it was an ugly breakup. So the shop has been waiting all this time for the correct harness for the Gen II Busa to come from the UK. I was thinking of telling them to just forget the QS and put the bike back together. Then I see Dynojet has put out their own QS ignition cut unit. Might switch to this, guy says it can be here by Tuesday.
www.powercommander.com
Quick Shifter | Dynojet
Create a more comfortable riding experience while increasing your speed. An easy motorcycle upgrade with tons of potential to truly change the way you ride.
www.powercommander.com
Well the Busa got home yesterday! Man it took the shop a long time but I must admit they did a good job. I think I told you all about the Healtech QS fiasco but basically Blue Monkey is no longer the HT rep. in the States and the shop had to order the correct harness from over-seas. Apparently HT did not know the harness does not fit the Busa but gave a new part number that was on back order forever. I was a little pissed because the shop didn't tell me right away the trouble they were having, I would have told them to forget it and get the bike done. Was looking at Dynojet anyway because of some features. Revzilla could have gotten that here overnight.
They did get the thumb break to work, which I had sort of given up on. They had to remove the clutch MC and change the line with a different banjo bolt to get everything to play nice together. Glad I let them hassle with that, would have been a bear without the brake line capabilities. The front wheel turns lock to lock and the only conflict is a slight touch on the inner fairing by the thumb brake lever. I'll need to get a blue reservoir from Rizoma for the TB. Also the rear brake can be operated from the TB or the foot lever.
Anyway, the TB is pretty cool. I can apply the rear brake with the same feel and subtlety as I do the front. It's hard to believe the Brembo rear caliper is making this difference, but the feel and control is through the roof. On the other hand, it requires a very complicated physical coordination to use it and I haven't yet figured out how to do it smoothly (only spent 2 hours on the bike). You don't realize how busy the left hand can be until you add another task to the process. Working the clutch works best if your hand is gripping the handgrip and the fingers work the lever (for me anyway). But working the TB requires me to lift the hand from the bars and reposition them. But if you think through it, as you go into a turn you usually are down shifting through the braking zones - which essentially means you need them in 2 places with the TB. Also in braking you do put more weight on the arms and hands and usually brace this against the bars. It's quite odd braking with the right hand on the bar and front brake, and the left unbraced and working the TB. It feels like braking one handed. I need to get the TB adjusted so I can stick the thumb out and work it while still covering the clutch. Looks like this might be tough because of the tight clearances.
The bike feels quite a bit different than a normal Hayabusa now. It has a smooth and subtle feel to it that is confidence inspiring. I don't know what is giving it the amazing feel specifically, but it's probably a combination of everything. I was worried about all these pieces adding up to a greater whole but I am pleasantly surprised at the resulting ride quality.
I have no idea if the TI axles do anything but weigh less, sorry to report. One day I might put the OEM axles back in and see if I feel a difference or maybe @c10 or @ROADTOAD1340 can give an opinion on that. But at what the 2 axles cost, I would safely put them in the parts for "the bike that has everything" category.
Well that's it for now. I hope to ride a bit in the morning, maybe another couple hours. We are getting a lot of rain this weekend so I haven't been able to ride it hard in this finished condition.
They did get the thumb break to work, which I had sort of given up on. They had to remove the clutch MC and change the line with a different banjo bolt to get everything to play nice together. Glad I let them hassle with that, would have been a bear without the brake line capabilities. The front wheel turns lock to lock and the only conflict is a slight touch on the inner fairing by the thumb brake lever. I'll need to get a blue reservoir from Rizoma for the TB. Also the rear brake can be operated from the TB or the foot lever.
Anyway, the TB is pretty cool. I can apply the rear brake with the same feel and subtlety as I do the front. It's hard to believe the Brembo rear caliper is making this difference, but the feel and control is through the roof. On the other hand, it requires a very complicated physical coordination to use it and I haven't yet figured out how to do it smoothly (only spent 2 hours on the bike). You don't realize how busy the left hand can be until you add another task to the process. Working the clutch works best if your hand is gripping the handgrip and the fingers work the lever (for me anyway). But working the TB requires me to lift the hand from the bars and reposition them. But if you think through it, as you go into a turn you usually are down shifting through the braking zones - which essentially means you need them in 2 places with the TB. Also in braking you do put more weight on the arms and hands and usually brace this against the bars. It's quite odd braking with the right hand on the bar and front brake, and the left unbraced and working the TB. It feels like braking one handed. I need to get the TB adjusted so I can stick the thumb out and work it while still covering the clutch. Looks like this might be tough because of the tight clearances.
The bike feels quite a bit different than a normal Hayabusa now. It has a smooth and subtle feel to it that is confidence inspiring. I don't know what is giving it the amazing feel specifically, but it's probably a combination of everything. I was worried about all these pieces adding up to a greater whole but I am pleasantly surprised at the resulting ride quality.
I have no idea if the TI axles do anything but weigh less, sorry to report. One day I might put the OEM axles back in and see if I feel a difference or maybe @c10 or @ROADTOAD1340 can give an opinion on that. But at what the 2 axles cost, I would safely put them in the parts for "the bike that has everything" category.
Well that's it for now. I hope to ride a bit in the morning, maybe another couple hours. We are getting a lot of rain this weekend so I haven't been able to ride it hard in this finished condition.
Good luck getting used to it. It would seem odd to me to push against a lever instead of pulling on one. Another ‘pull’ lever if it fits, would be easier to adjust having two hand brakes, to me anyway.
Actually the push lever feels pretty normal for some reason. But still takes some muscle training. I also now have the most complicated cockpit of any normally aspirated Busa though!
Similar threads
