2000 Hayabusa Cranks But No Start When Warm

dpc467 said:
2000 Hayabusa
Next Video...Noticed something that may be creating a problem.

Click to expand...
Did the bike not start just prior to you loosening the hose clamp?

It sounds like it's vapor locking and if I'm not mistaken, the gen 1s with the external pump do this because they get hot....the later models have internal pumps and the immersion in gasoline keeps them cool.....

It might be worth the effort to do the conversion to an internal pump?

Do you live in a hot area?
 
Bumblebee said:
Did the bike not start just prior to you loosening the hose clamp?

It sounds like it's vapor locking and if I'm not mistaken, the gen 1s with the external pump do this because they get hot....the later models have internal pumps and the immersion in gasoline keeps them cool.....

It might be worth the effort to do the conversion to an internal pump?

Do you live in a hot area?
Click to expand...

it did not start up until I loosened that hose clamp and sorta bled it fuel out. Now its starting right up. I am gonna run it again for a while and then get it to (not start) again and see if I loosen the clamp and it helps it again to make sure
 
dpc467 said:
it did not start up until I loosened that hose clamp and sorta bled it fuel out. Now its starting right up. I am gonna run it again for a while and then get it to (not start) again and see if I loosen the clamp and it helps it again to make sure
Click to expand...
Sounds like the pump is getting hot and vapor-locking which was a common complaint with the earlier bikes...

The fix (as far as I know) is to change to an internal pump...

@Kiwi Rider not only has an earlier gen 1 but is a tech as well.....he will know for sure...
@Berlin Germany will know as well as he is a walking Hayabusa encyclopedia
 
UPDATE: Vapor Locking is NOT the issue. I ran it until it got warm again and loosened the fuel hose as I did before and let it bleed out some and tightened it back up and still no start. WOW. This is absolute craziness.
 
Bumblebee said:
Sounds like the pump is getting hot and vapor-locking which was a common complaint with the earlier bikes...

The fix (as far as I know) is to change to an internal pump...

@Kiwi Rider not only has an earlier gen 1 but is a tech as well.....he will know for sure...
@Berlin Germany will know as well as he is a walking Hayabusa encyclopedia
Click to expand...

UPDATE: Vapor Locking is NOT the issue. I ran it until it got warm again and loosened the fuel hose as I did before and let it bleed out some and tightened it back up and still no start. WOW. This is absolute craziness.
 
TonyM995 said:
You're doing a great job and I love all of the effort you're putting in to get help! I'm not sure what the issue is but I hope you figure it out.

Maybe verify if the engine is for sure getting fuel when hot. Like you said in this video, it's computer controlled for hot/cold start. The below help sheds more light on this topic.

The best feature on a standalone ecu is the ability to data log. It appears that your engine temp sensor is reading correctly. Since you can't check the functioning of the ECU, maybe check the physical things you can when it's hot.

On an aftermarket ecu, there are a few compensation tables that read the engine temperature sensor on the back of the block. On a standalone we add or remove fuel in these tables to adjust how many milliseconds the injectors are going to pulse based on the engine temp.

View attachment 1679230

View attachment 1679231
Click to expand...

It is very strange. As long as it stays running there is no driveability issues whatsoever. But if you stop and kill it....it wont start up lol.
 
Bumblebee said:
I still wouldn't rule out vapor locking...
Click to expand...
Ive been an ASE auto tech for a long time but Im retired now. I kinda know what to look for but a motorcycle is a little different. I do know how the sensors work and all of that but I sure am stumped. Back in the day we used a clothes pin on fuel lines to pinch on em a little to stop the vapor locking issues. But this Busa is a different animal lol
 
dpc467 said:
Thanks!!
Click to expand...
Hey, I've just seen this now so a bit late to the game . . but . .
First thing I noticed in one of your vids, it appears you have not pushed the coils right down onto the plugs, this will load up the coils and possibly cause a problem like you are experiencing.
The other thing is, you do not have the insulating sock over the fuel pump....
this is very important to have the fuel pump covered because of the heat from the engine crankcase transferring into the pump, and causing CAVITATION aka 'vapor lock'.
This may very well be the problem you are having....
look at no. 36 in the image here...
1708972292587.png

Also, check that the fuel hoses are not being kinked when the tank is lowered into position.
Just a few of my initial thoughts.
 
dpc467 said:
Ive been an ASE auto tech for a long time but Im retired now. I kinda know what to look for but a motorcycle is a little different. I do know how the sensors work and all of that but I sure am stumped. Back in the day we used a clothes pin on fuel lines to pinch on em a little to stop the vapor locking issues. But this Busa is a different animal lol
Click to expand...
Here is a thread that has lots of info regarding the external fuel pump...

@Berlin Germany has a few links in this thread that will shed a little light on what you are facing...

www.hayabusa.org

2000 Busa has an internal fuel pump??? | General Bike Related Topics

Hello everyone! I just picked up a 2000 in very clean condition: And in the usual fashion whenever I buy a new bike I tear it apart to see what's been done to it, or just get a better feel for maintenance in general. I got the tank off fully expecting to see an external fuel pump when low...
www.hayabusa.org www.hayabusa.org
 
Kiwi Rider said:
Hey, I've just seen this now so a bit late to the game . . but . .
First thing I noticed in one of your vids, it appears you have not pushed the coils right down onto the plugs, this will load up the coils and possibly cause a problem like you are experiencing.
The other thing is, you do not have the insulating sock over the fuel pump....
this is very important to have the fuel pump covered because of the heat from the engine crankcase transferring into the pump, and causing CAVITATION aka 'vapor lock'.
This may very well be the problem you are having....
look at no. 36 in the image here...
View attachment 1679234
Also, check that the fuel hoses are not being kinked when the tank is lowered into position.
Just a few of my initial thoughts.
Click to expand...
Ok so I need to find one of those insulated fuel pump covers correct. So do you think it is a vapor lock issue or computer driveability issue since I have no codes or no FI light on.
I guess I need to try to cool the external pump down somehow to see if it helps. I will re-check my coils to make sure they are properly attached to the spark plug again as well
 
dpc467 said:
Ok so I need to find one of those insulated fuel pump covers correct. So do you think it is a vapor lock issue or computer driveability issue since I have no codes or no FI light on.
I guess I need to try to cool the external pump down somehow to see if it helps. I will re-check my coils to make sure they are properly attached to the spark plug again as well
Click to expand...
Just use some foil type insulating wrap, my '99 still has the OEM original from new sock on the pump, a little damaged but its working well!
I've overhauled my pump with new filter and new pump motor, also cleaned all the mesh screens that block up so easily and quickly.
You may want to strip your fuel pump and do the same asap.
Re the FI codes logging, when there is a fault in the fuel management system it will log the fault BUT!!!
the moment you turn off the key and power down the ECU, the fault will be cleared and lost . . sooooooo,
you must do the 'paperclip' trick with the ignition left 'on' to access and view the code/codes in the dash display LCD window, i.e . . . C00, C01, C02, etc etc.
 
@dpc467 . . . by the way, I love your paint work and design, very very classy!
I have similar on my '99 Busa but mine is a Chinese fairing set complete with a tank cover, I could not bring myself to paint over the OEM fairings and fuel tank, mine is a red and black 1999 Busa, in pretty good condition so it's (fairings set) stashed in a big box in my spare room.
 
Kiwi Rider said:
Just use some foil type insulating wrap, my '99 still has the OEM original from new sock on the pump, a little damaged but its working well!
I've overhauled my pump with new filter and new pump motor, also cleaned all the mesh screens that block up so easily and quickly.
You may want to strip your fuel pump and do the same asap.
Re the FI codes logging, when there is a fault in the fuel management system it will log the fault BUT!!!
the moment you turn off the key and power down the ECU, the fault will be cleared and lost . . sooooooo,
you must do the 'paperclip' trick with the ignition left 'on' to access and view the code/codes in the dash display LCD window, i.e . . . C00, C01, C02, etc etc.
Click to expand...
My fuel has been rebuilt. Stripped down and worked over good. Like I say. It runs like a raped ape as long as you dont turn it off
 
Kiwi Rider said:
@dpc467 . . . by the way, I love your paint work and design, very very classy!
I have similar on my '99 Busa but mine is a Chinese fairing set complete with a tank cover, I could not bring myself to paint over the OEM fairings and fuel tank, mine is a red and black 1999 Busa, in pretty good condition so it's (fairings set) stashed in a big box in my spare room.
Click to expand...
Thanks brother. I just rechecked the cards after trying to start it. C00 is all I get. The FI light has never came on and its never had any trouble codes whole its done this
 
dpc467 said:
So do you think it is a vapor lock issue or computer driveability issue since I have no codes or no FI light on.
Click to expand...
Hard to say,
all you can do is start with eliminating the possible fueling 'vapor lock' (cavitation, to be technically accurate in description of fault) issue by adequately insulating the fuel pump and assessing any improvement after that.
It's the process of elimination, starting with the most accessible and easiest problem area to look at.
Step by step, little by little . . that is how Mt Everest was conquered ( by a KIwi no less lol)
 
Kiwi Rider said:
@dpc467 . . . by the way, I love your paint work and design, very very classy!
I have similar on my '99 Busa but mine is a Chinese fairing set complete with a tank cover, I could not bring myself to paint over the OEM fairings and fuel tank, mine is a red and black 1999 Busa, in pretty good condition so it's (fairings set) stashed in a big box in my spare room.
Click to expand...
My bike has a tank cover as well but all of it has been painted. The tank is blue under the cover. Im glad I got the cover bc that way If I have to do the 2002 up tank kit I can just put the cover back on it lol
 
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