2003 Busa trouble starting after long rides

Lithium battery tender is different?

Some units handle both lead acid and Li-Ion and many are dedicated to only one battery type. I do not have a recommendation but see that Deltran's Battery Tender Jr. has a switch for battery type, while the Plus that I have relied on handles only lead acid.

I would love for someone experiencing this problem to wrap your starter in DEI gold tape and see if it stops. Mine doesn’t do it but mine is wrapped already.

What type of job is this, ergo does the starter have to be removed?
 
Great to hear.

There is a saying "batteries do not just die, they are murdered." The same goes for the stator and rectifier. If they were excessively taxed by an existing problem, that will burn them up, and burn up your new set too. Ten thousand miles is not nearly enough mileage to burn up the Hayabusa charging system. Something else, either solved or existing contributed to that.

If you have not I would run the electrical tests in the manual - AC voltage, DC voltage, leakage/short-circuit test. I would also inspect and clean grounds and high power connections like the headlights and sounds like perhaps you looked at the fuel pump.

Why run voltage tests with a new charging system one may ask? To be sure that new pump is fine. If it draws excessive power, it would drop the voltage below spec. Also the short-circuit test would see if that pump or anything else is energized with the bike off, straining the system.

If all came out in spec I might assume that the prior owner ran the bike a long way on a dead battery, power-throttling it to get home, which could have burned up the charging system.
 
Great to hear.

There is a saying "batteries do not just die, they are murdered." The same goes for the stator and rectifier. If they were excessively taxed by an existing problem, that will burn them up, and burn up your new set too. Ten thousand miles is not nearly enough mileage to burn up the Hayabusa charging system. Something else, either solved or existing contributed to that.

If you have not I would run the electrical tests in the manual - AC voltage, DC voltage, leakage/short-circuit test. I would also inspect and clean grounds and high power connections like the headlights and sounds like perhaps you looked at the fuel pump.

Why run voltage tests with a new charging system one may ask? To be sure that new pump is fine. If it draws excessive power, it would drop the voltage below spec. Also the short-circuit test would see if that pump or anything else is energized with the bike off, straining the system.

If all came out in spec I might assume that the prior owner ran the bike a long way on a dead battery, power-throttling it to get home, which could have burned up the charging system.
Yeah, it has a drag racing size aftermarket fuel pump. The poop is equipped to fuel a Chevy small block lol.
 
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