Leave this bearing in, unless it needs replaced.
2003 Gsxr1000
- Thread starter sixpack577
- Start date
Clean and ready for new seals and reassembly.
Invaluable, esp when it applies to Busas. Thanks SixPack! All that hard work is paying off!
Thank you sir!
And thanks again for the original deal on the brake rotors, they were too perfect to pass up, exactly what I wanted and needed...and that jumpstarted me working on the whole bike!
michael parris heuberger
Registered
Hi. My busa does not have that water pump.
Smart TRE with Gear Indicator.
The Gsxr1k ecu cannot be flashed until 2005 (this is a 2003), so I needed a TRE for a little more lower rpm umph (I doubt I'll need the 186mph limiter off on this bike, lol, but it'll be gone too)
Also it is a 'Smart' TRE, so that it changes from neutral maps to gear maps with gear changes.
A regular TRE wil keep the bike in the neutral map...and down on power.
Suzuki's clutch switch can also be defeated, meaning that if you changed the clutch perch (I did), or remove or unplug the clutch switch, then the bike is also stuck in the neutral map...unless you add a relay, which will trick the ecu into thinking the clutch switch is active, and the bike will correctly switch from neutral to gear maps.
I will be wiring in the relay soon.
The Smart TRE install itself is simple.
It plugs inline to the factory gear position sensor(which detects neutral or a gear), and has one wire to be connected to switched power on.
That wire install is to strip a place on one of several wires, twist the TRE wire on, solder, heatshrink, done.
I am waiting to finish assembling other things, so that All electrical connections are plugged in (so no FI light, hopefully), then get a battery, and finish all the electrical things, like this, and others.
I'm also from the era of riding long Before gear indicators, lol, so I don't need it, but, it came as one unit with the Smart TRE, so why not.
The gear display is available in about 6 different colors, and I chose white.
I will be changing Suzuki's funk orange leds in the guages too, the tach lights will be blue, and the lcd screen/speedometer will also be white. I may also get a black tachometer face, instead of the white.
I have changed guage colors on other bikes, and it isn't just for looks, as the blues and the white colors are much easier for my eyes to focus quickly on, and much faster than orange, red, or green, especially at night.
These gear indicators are available for the Gen1 Busas, and with the Smart TRE function for '99/2000, and 2001 Busas, and, the install is the same.
I post all this Gsxr stuff because alot of us here like bikes in general, but more so, because most all of what I am doing is the same, or very similiar on the Busa.
Now, on to mounting the gear display...
The red wire on the frame is what gets attached to switched power.
The Gsxr1k ecu cannot be flashed until 2005 (this is a 2003), so I needed a TRE for a little more lower rpm umph (I doubt I'll need the 186mph limiter off on this bike, lol, but it'll be gone too)
Also it is a 'Smart' TRE, so that it changes from neutral maps to gear maps with gear changes.
A regular TRE wil keep the bike in the neutral map...and down on power.
Suzuki's clutch switch can also be defeated, meaning that if you changed the clutch perch (I did), or remove or unplug the clutch switch, then the bike is also stuck in the neutral map...unless you add a relay, which will trick the ecu into thinking the clutch switch is active, and the bike will correctly switch from neutral to gear maps.
I will be wiring in the relay soon.
The Smart TRE install itself is simple.
It plugs inline to the factory gear position sensor(which detects neutral or a gear), and has one wire to be connected to switched power on.
That wire install is to strip a place on one of several wires, twist the TRE wire on, solder, heatshrink, done.
I am waiting to finish assembling other things, so that All electrical connections are plugged in (so no FI light, hopefully), then get a battery, and finish all the electrical things, like this, and others.
I'm also from the era of riding long Before gear indicators, lol, so I don't need it, but, it came as one unit with the Smart TRE, so why not.
The gear display is available in about 6 different colors, and I chose white.
I will be changing Suzuki's funk orange leds in the guages too, the tach lights will be blue, and the lcd screen/speedometer will also be white. I may also get a black tachometer face, instead of the white.
I have changed guage colors on other bikes, and it isn't just for looks, as the blues and the white colors are much easier for my eyes to focus quickly on, and much faster than orange, red, or green, especially at night.
These gear indicators are available for the Gen1 Busas, and with the Smart TRE function for '99/2000, and 2001 Busas, and, the install is the same.
I post all this Gsxr stuff because alot of us here like bikes in general, but more so, because most all of what I am doing is the same, or very similiar on the Busa.
Now, on to mounting the gear display...
The red wire on the frame is what gets attached to switched power.
The gear indicator attaches where ever with double sided tape.
There really wasn't anywhere in the guage area to attach it to either(other than tha back of a headlight, lol, no).
So, I decided on where I wanted it.
As said, the tach lights will be blue, and the speedometer/lcd display will be white, with black numbers, and the gear indicator will be a white number, on a black background.
This is all a good contrast and location for MY eyes.
Next I looked for a good mount, which is the throttle side guage mounting bolt.
Then I found a flat piece of plated aluminum in my stash of parts, and a black plastic bicycle reflector.
I like to do some sort of McGyvering on all my bikes, lol, custom whatever to get it how I want, so here goes with this one.
I measured, then cut, drilled, and bent the flat bar into this shape.
Then I cut up the plastic reflector, which left me with a small plastic block, with a 45° angle on it, and a threaded hole from it's mount.
A little trial and error on fit, cleaning up the plastic edges, and some black automotive touch-up paint, and done.
The double-sided tape holds the gear display on, and it tilts up and down.
The bracket itself cannot be seen unless you look for it, as the black color hides it, and, once the nose it on, you will see even less in that area.
Also, the stock guage cover looks rough, with scratches and stains...and will be replaced with a new one when the led colors are changed(also hoping to add a remote dimmer switch for the guage lights).
Wiring routing follows the factory harness.
There really wasn't anywhere in the guage area to attach it to either(other than tha back of a headlight, lol, no).
So, I decided on where I wanted it.
As said, the tach lights will be blue, and the speedometer/lcd display will be white, with black numbers, and the gear indicator will be a white number, on a black background.
This is all a good contrast and location for MY eyes.
Next I looked for a good mount, which is the throttle side guage mounting bolt.
Then I found a flat piece of plated aluminum in my stash of parts, and a black plastic bicycle reflector.
I like to do some sort of McGyvering on all my bikes, lol, custom whatever to get it how I want, so here goes with this one.
I measured, then cut, drilled, and bent the flat bar into this shape.
Then I cut up the plastic reflector, which left me with a small plastic block, with a 45° angle on it, and a threaded hole from it's mount.
A little trial and error on fit, cleaning up the plastic edges, and some black automotive touch-up paint, and done.
The double-sided tape holds the gear display on, and it tilts up and down.
The bracket itself cannot be seen unless you look for it, as the black color hides it, and, once the nose it on, you will see even less in that area.
Also, the stock guage cover looks rough, with scratches and stains...and will be replaced with a new one when the led colors are changed(also hoping to add a remote dimmer switch for the guage lights).
Wiring routing follows the factory harness.
The mount itself.
I also don't like visible wiring, but there isn't much that can be done with this design, since the wires come out of the bottom of the gear indicator, the wire could only be pulled back so far, still be visible, and the thickness of the wire bent at such an angle, which isn't good for the internal connections, would want to pull the gear indicator off of it's taped mount, so...this is what I ended up with.
The wire from the gear indicator kind of looks like it's mount, but it'll do.
I have a SpeedoHealer too, with top-speed recall button, and will be installing that next.
A manual fan switch, and Dealer-mode switch will be added to the bars or dash area too.
So far I'm happy with how this project is progressing.
I also don't like visible wiring, but there isn't much that can be done with this design, since the wires come out of the bottom of the gear indicator, the wire could only be pulled back so far, still be visible, and the thickness of the wire bent at such an angle, which isn't good for the internal connections, would want to pull the gear indicator off of it's taped mount, so...this is what I ended up with.
The wire from the gear indicator kind of looks like it's mount, but it'll do.
I have a SpeedoHealer too, with top-speed recall button, and will be installing that next.
A manual fan switch, and Dealer-mode switch will be added to the bars or dash area too.
So far I'm happy with how this project is progressing.
Last edited:
The mount itself installed
Gear indicator on
I've often thought about getting a gear pos indicator for my Busa, but then I realize I just don't need one . . .the moment I look at my speed and engine revs I instantly know whether I'm in 6th or 5th at whatever speed.
It's funny though, cause I really love the OEM gear pos indicator on my V-Strom.
Maybe I just need a few more years riding the Strom til I'm no longer checking the GPI.
Nice position you've mounted it in Six, another step forward in your Gixxer build!
It's funny though, cause I really love the OEM gear pos indicator on my V-Strom.
Maybe I just need a few more years riding the Strom til I'm no longer checking the GPI.
Nice position you've mounted it in Six, another step forward in your Gixxer build!
bigoltool
Registered
I had my Gear indicator mounted on my bars for a long time and hated it. Couldnt be seen over my tank bag without mashing the bag down a little. So I made (3d Printed) a small pod that velcros on top of the gauges for the GPI and a Voltmeter. Wiring is invisible, and visibility is much better. Still a little bit of a work in Progress, as the curvature doesn't quite match the Gauge cover, but I was more concerned with the windshield clearance when I made this one.
Enjoying watching your build, keep em coming!
michael parris heuberger
Registered
Hi. I think it looks very very good.
Thank you sir!
And wow...that looks excellent!
I love watching you guys 3d print stuff.
I'm a low level Solidworks user, and hoping to get to the point of being able to design those shapes and dimensions.
I've thought about gold bars too, I really like those.
I will probably do a Fatbar conversion eventually too, as I wouldn't mind the extra rise from the adapter...and I'de have to get gold bars.
Healtech Speedohealer
I have used these before, and my bikes have been +/- 1mph compared to gps.
I currently have a -1 front sprocket, and a 55 series instead of a 50 rear tire.
That gearing is close to stock, but still not accurate, and I will be changing sprocket and tire sizes again, so Speedohealer it is.
I already have their Smart TRE with gear indacator, and plan to add their Quickshifter after the bike is running.
ALL of Healtech's modules are plug and play, and all can be used together.
The only wire that doesn't plug in on the Smart TRE is a switched power supply.
I will wait until I have a battery before I connect that.
This bike came with a butterfly valve in the oem midpipe(now long gone), which has a servo that controls it.
The pin in the ecu that controls the servo was already pulled out when I got the bike, and the FI light is not on.
I heat shrunk the ecu pin and tied it back.
I should be able to unplug and remove the servo now, and not get an FI light.
Either way, it's power supply will be where I connect the Smart TRE's power, and possibly a volt-meter or usb power supply.
The 2 servo plugs are circled in blue, with an arrow pointing to the power wire.
The rest of the wiring, for the Speedohealer, was also routed along the main wiring harness.
I mounted the Speedohealer itself under the guages, so it would be easy to get to, vs removing either seat.
I also got the Top Speed Recall button with it, kind of useful...or useless, lol, but I liked watching my old Gen2 needle sweep out to it's last highest speed.
On this 1k, it will of course just show the digital speed on the dash.
Push the button after stopping the engine(but not turning off the power), and it will show you your last highest speed, once.
The TSR button I just ziptied along the wiring harness to the switch housing, and it basically holds itself firmly exactly where it is, but, I put a drop of superglue on it just to make sure.
The Speedohealer itself needed mounted closer to the front of the bike too, so that the TSR button would reach the bar location that I have it at(even though that wire is about 3' long, lol).
The clutch switch wiring and plug will be removed from the switch housing, and I will connect a relay to those same wires near the battery, to make the ecu think that the switch is still there and working, which will keep the bike switching from neutral maps to gear maps as needed.
The front brake light switch from the mc still needs wired in too.
My fuel-imjector o-rings should be here this week(and waterpump parts), and my gas tank(at the powder coaters) is supposed to be ready by this friday.
I have used these before, and my bikes have been +/- 1mph compared to gps.
I currently have a -1 front sprocket, and a 55 series instead of a 50 rear tire.
That gearing is close to stock, but still not accurate, and I will be changing sprocket and tire sizes again, so Speedohealer it is.
I already have their Smart TRE with gear indacator, and plan to add their Quickshifter after the bike is running.
ALL of Healtech's modules are plug and play, and all can be used together.
The only wire that doesn't plug in on the Smart TRE is a switched power supply.
I will wait until I have a battery before I connect that.
This bike came with a butterfly valve in the oem midpipe(now long gone), which has a servo that controls it.
The pin in the ecu that controls the servo was already pulled out when I got the bike, and the FI light is not on.
I heat shrunk the ecu pin and tied it back.
I should be able to unplug and remove the servo now, and not get an FI light.
Either way, it's power supply will be where I connect the Smart TRE's power, and possibly a volt-meter or usb power supply.
The 2 servo plugs are circled in blue, with an arrow pointing to the power wire.
The rest of the wiring, for the Speedohealer, was also routed along the main wiring harness.
I mounted the Speedohealer itself under the guages, so it would be easy to get to, vs removing either seat.
I also got the Top Speed Recall button with it, kind of useful...or useless, lol, but I liked watching my old Gen2 needle sweep out to it's last highest speed.
On this 1k, it will of course just show the digital speed on the dash.
Push the button after stopping the engine(but not turning off the power), and it will show you your last highest speed, once.
The TSR button I just ziptied along the wiring harness to the switch housing, and it basically holds itself firmly exactly where it is, but, I put a drop of superglue on it just to make sure.
The Speedohealer itself needed mounted closer to the front of the bike too, so that the TSR button would reach the bar location that I have it at(even though that wire is about 3' long, lol).
The clutch switch wiring and plug will be removed from the switch housing, and I will connect a relay to those same wires near the battery, to make the ecu think that the switch is still there and working, which will keep the bike switching from neutral maps to gear maps as needed.
The front brake light switch from the mc still needs wired in too.
My fuel-imjector o-rings should be here this week(and waterpump parts), and my gas tank(at the powder coaters) is supposed to be ready by this friday.
Speedohealer
Top Speed Recall button
The oem steering dampner is also back on.
All I did was clean it off, as it isn't leaking, and still functions like it was new.
I will eventually replace it with an aftermarket adjustable stick style dampner, that mounts paralell behind the handlebars/in front of the gas tank.
All I did was clean it off, as it isn't leaking, and still functions like it was new.
I will eventually replace it with an aftermarket adjustable stick style dampner, that mounts paralell behind the handlebars/in front of the gas tank.
Aftermarket horn.
Connecting the horn will finish up the wiring in the frame/under the airbox.
I looked at several horns, and decided that this one, from a Facebook add, and $23 shipped, Simply Had to Be the Best thing on the market...lmao
This one will fit easily into the stock location, and there is alot of room there (I can add a second fan if need be).
I have the stock horn still, but as most agree, these don't get alot of attention when we need them to.
I will try different horns until I find one that I like, but for $23, I'll take a chance on this one...it has to be louder than stock, hopefully, and I used Paypal as usual, so if it's a scam or junk, they'll refund it, lol
I'll connect it to another battery that I have whenever it gets here(ordered last week), and report back if the horn is any good or not, and again in future to see if the heat damages it.
If it doesn't work out, I'll probably just get a $2 horn from a pickup truck at the junkyard, lol
Connecting the horn will finish up the wiring in the frame/under the airbox.
I looked at several horns, and decided that this one, from a Facebook add, and $23 shipped, Simply Had to Be the Best thing on the market...lmao
This one will fit easily into the stock location, and there is alot of room there (I can add a second fan if need be).
I have the stock horn still, but as most agree, these don't get alot of attention when we need them to.
I will try different horns until I find one that I like, but for $23, I'll take a chance on this one...it has to be louder than stock, hopefully, and I used Paypal as usual, so if it's a scam or junk, they'll refund it, lol
I'll connect it to another battery that I have whenever it gets here(ordered last week), and report back if the horn is any good or not, and again in future to see if the heat damages it.
If it doesn't work out, I'll probably just get a $2 horn from a pickup truck at the junkyard, lol
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