That's ok, it can all be fixed
2003 Gsxr1000
- Thread starter sixpack577
- Start date
That's ok, it can all be fixed
ROADTOAD1340
Registered
Great job you are doing Six , I been meaning to update myself on this build , and am loving it . I also like watching some of the youtube builders / restorers , methodically pulling apart bikes and rejuvenating them with new or refurbished pieces , it is asmr to me .
Thank you sir!
It is great to see an old(er) gal like this Gixxer resurrected again...
Many would just junk it and move on....
Racing Radiator Guards.
I wanted black, and these had great reviews.
I will give them another great review, as they fit well, and come with zipties and ss tie wire.
I have always(and did) use stainless steel tie wire.
I wanted black, and these had great reviews.
I will give them another great review, as they fit well, and come with zipties and ss tie wire.
I have always(and did) use stainless steel tie wire.
Electric fan
The '03 electric fan worked, but when I took it off the radiator and tilted it, I could feel that there was in and out play on the shaft.
This doesn't effect performance, yet, but the fan can gum up and slow down.
So, I decided to replace it, vs it seizing on a hot day, lol.
I happened to have another '17-'23 Gsxr1k electric fan on the shelf...hmmm.
What do you know, the fan motor has the same shape and bolt pattern, but with a different blade and plug, and in a different cage.
The newer fan screwed right into the old cage, and the blade fit within it.
I cut the plugs off, and soldered and heat shrunk the old plug to the newer fan, and trimmed the metal cage so that the wiring cleared it on the back side.
Annnnd...I have a good functioning fan now.
I have contacted Denso in the past, asking them for CFM ratings for particular models...and they never even responded(they are useless, as that isn't proprietary information), regardless, the new one feels like it blows the same amount of air when you spin it, lol.
So, another significant cost savings...on an otherwise blown budget...
lmao
'17-'23 fan on left
'03-'04 fan on right
Have to trim the metal for clearance(and did) pencil shaded area, in the 3rd pic
The '03 electric fan worked, but when I took it off the radiator and tilted it, I could feel that there was in and out play on the shaft.
This doesn't effect performance, yet, but the fan can gum up and slow down.
So, I decided to replace it, vs it seizing on a hot day, lol.
I happened to have another '17-'23 Gsxr1k electric fan on the shelf...hmmm.
What do you know, the fan motor has the same shape and bolt pattern, but with a different blade and plug, and in a different cage.
The newer fan screwed right into the old cage, and the blade fit within it.
I cut the plugs off, and soldered and heat shrunk the old plug to the newer fan, and trimmed the metal cage so that the wiring cleared it on the back side.
Annnnd...I have a good functioning fan now.
I have contacted Denso in the past, asking them for CFM ratings for particular models...and they never even responded(they are useless, as that isn't proprietary information), regardless, the new one feels like it blows the same amount of air when you spin it, lol.
So, another significant cost savings...on an otherwise blown budget...
lmao
'17-'23 fan on left
'03-'04 fan on right
Have to trim the metal for clearance(and did) pencil shaded area, in the 3rd pic
Newer fan swapped into older cage, with old plug solderd on, with new hardware.
Radiator in, and starting to look more like a bike again, lol.
I have a new thermostat on the way, and need to order a new radiator cap, as well as the 8 fuel injector o-rings.
Once I get those and a battery, I think that's all I need to start it, sync the throttle-bodies, and set the TPS and STP's.
And still lots more to do after, lol
I have a new thermostat on the way, and need to order a new radiator cap, as well as the 8 fuel injector o-rings.
Once I get those and a battery, I think that's all I need to start it, sync the throttle-bodies, and set the TPS and STP's.
And still lots more to do after, lol
I cleaned and removed what was left of the foam ram-air seals on the airbox.
I had a new oem pair, which are peel and stick.
The ends need a small amount cut off, and I put a drop of superglue between where both ends of the foam meet.
I put in a new looking K&N air filter($17 shipped, lol, can't beat it)
Lightly spray oiled the top/inlet side with Maxima aerosol air filter oil, and put it back on...for now.
It'll need to come back off to access the horn wires, as I am going to buy a different one to put in the stock location...only it will be Loud
lol
I had a new oem pair, which are peel and stick.
The ends need a small amount cut off, and I put a drop of superglue between where both ends of the foam meet.
I put in a new looking K&N air filter($17 shipped, lol, can't beat it)
Lightly spray oiled the top/inlet side with Maxima aerosol air filter oil, and put it back on...for now.
It'll need to come back off to access the horn wires, as I am going to buy a different one to put in the stock location...only it will be Loud
lol
The original foam was done.
Not ramming a whole lot of air in there like this...this is where some of the horses ran off from...
lmao
Not ramming a whole lot of air in there like this...this is where some of the horses ran off from...
lmao
I capped the 2 bottom ports on the airbox (the middle is the factory drain cover)
I removed the P.A.I.R valve, and I routed the crankcase vent directly back through the reeds in the valve cover, so it pressurizes the crankcase, which on a 1000cc or bigger is a 2hp+ gain, and it also keeps the oil mist from the crankcase vent, from going through the airbox and slowly mixing with the air/fuel burn, which makes for a cleaner burn for the sparkplugs, no slow oil contamination...plus it saved a quarter pound of weight too...it's a super mod
lmao
I removed the P.A.I.R valve, and I routed the crankcase vent directly back through the reeds in the valve cover, so it pressurizes the crankcase, which on a 1000cc or bigger is a 2hp+ gain, and it also keeps the oil mist from the crankcase vent, from going through the airbox and slowly mixing with the air/fuel burn, which makes for a cleaner burn for the sparkplugs, no slow oil contamination...plus it saved a quarter pound of weight too...it's a super mod
lmao
New thermostat
Suzuki service manuals call for Suzuki grease on the thermostat's rubber seal (like the Busa),
but I have always used a light coat of vaseoline, like on any other o-ring.
Torque to 89" lbs (like the Busa).
If you need to replace a thermostat on a Busa, it looks and is done the same,
just make sure the vent (small pin) is at the 12 o'clock position, so the air bleeds out correctly
Here's the required exciting pics
Suzuki service manuals call for Suzuki grease on the thermostat's rubber seal (like the Busa),
but I have always used a light coat of vaseoline, like on any other o-ring.
Torque to 89" lbs (like the Busa).
If you need to replace a thermostat on a Busa, it looks and is done the same,
just make sure the vent (small pin) is at the 12 o'clock position, so the air bleeds out correctly
Here's the required exciting pics
WuzzaCBXRider
Registered
Suppose the Suzuki grease handles the heat better than Vaseline?
No, the grease or whatever lubricant is only used to help the rubber seal seat properly.
So that the rubber doesn't roll, pinch, bind, or tear during installation.
The Suzuki grease nor the vaseoline does anything in terms of helping seal the system, but rather protects the rubber during install, to ensure the rubber seal doesn't leak.
It is a thick flat O-ring as you can see, but it also has a groove in the center, that the round metal exterior of the thermostat fits into.
So you have a stamped steel center pushing the rubber from the inside, and it is being sandwiched from the outside between the cast aluminum head and the goose neck on the hose side, it needs to stay in the proper place as it's torqued down.
A light coat of vaseoline is the answer for this for o-rings, it also holds them in place when the parts don't.
I have been using it for decades, and it works very well for the purpose.
I also took the rubber seal off the thermostat and put vaseoline in the rubber seal's inner groove, and reinstalled it, so that the thermostat would rotate and slide freely inside the rubber seal.
I used a Minimal amount of vaseoline as always.
I ordered new oem fuel injector o-rings(8), some waterpump seals that I didn't have, a radiator cap, the rubber gaskets and metal sleeves for the top 2 gas tank bolts, and a new rear brake resivor(with seal and cap).
My lady got me a $200 Revzilla gift card for Christmas, and my total was $240...awesome.
I am also going in the morning to pick up my gas tank from the powder coaters...if it's ready.
With these parts, I can finish the rear brakes, and fill and bleed them and the front, and then the brakes will be finshed and functional, aside from bedding the new pads.
I should also have everything for the engine to run again, other than a battery.
So progress, and on to the rearsets, undertail, and lots more, lol.
My lady got me a $200 Revzilla gift card for Christmas, and my total was $240...awesome.
I am also going in the morning to pick up my gas tank from the powder coaters...if it's ready.
With these parts, I can finish the rear brakes, and fill and bleed them and the front, and then the brakes will be finshed and functional, aside from bedding the new pads.
I should also have everything for the engine to run again, other than a battery.
So progress, and on to the rearsets, undertail, and lots more, lol.
As for the footpegs, I really wanted some nice reasets, but my knees want some drop pegs...and my knees won, so, an aftermarket shifter and brake pedal, with new factory brackets, and 40mm/1.5" drop pegs it is.
I was all set to draw up some brackets to drop the mounts, and use aftermarket rearsets, only lower...but the midpipe mount is cast into the frame, and is below the lower peg mount bolt, so I would have to cut that, and extend the midpipe mount to the new rearset mount, doable, but I'm still undecided.
Meanwhile, I confirmed the 40mm drop to be very noticeable.
This is the easy way I've tried peg positions in the past.
Ziptie the bracket to the measured position on the shifter side(usually more clearance/easier), sit on it, and put your foot on the stock peg, then try the lowererd or moved ziptied peg, you probably can't stand on it, but you can relax the weight of your leg on it, and get an idea if the change is enough, or worth it to you.
I assumed 40mm on this would be ok, but it feels alot better, and more noticeable than I thought, so I'm glad I spent 5 minutes and 2 zipties to find out
lol
I was all set to draw up some brackets to drop the mounts, and use aftermarket rearsets, only lower...but the midpipe mount is cast into the frame, and is below the lower peg mount bolt, so I would have to cut that, and extend the midpipe mount to the new rearset mount, doable, but I'm still undecided.
Meanwhile, I confirmed the 40mm drop to be very noticeable.
This is the easy way I've tried peg positions in the past.
Ziptie the bracket to the measured position on the shifter side(usually more clearance/easier), sit on it, and put your foot on the stock peg, then try the lowererd or moved ziptied peg, you probably can't stand on it, but you can relax the weight of your leg on it, and get an idea if the change is enough, or worth it to you.
I assumed 40mm on this would be ok, but it feels alot better, and more noticeable than I thought, so I'm glad I spent 5 minutes and 2 zipties to find out
lol
Waterpump removal.
Lots of chain crud slung between the waterpump and engine case, and the last thing to really clean on this bike, as you can't get to it otherwise(without removing the waterpump itself).
The cooling system worked fine, but at almost 40k miles and 21 years, it will get a few flushes with white vinegar and distilled water.
I already replaced the thermostat, upgraded the electric fan, and have a new radiator cap and waterpump seals on the way.
I used Dawn Powerwash as usual to get the grease and crud off, and it works better than any degreaser I've used, at least without toxic fumes, lol.
Spray on, wait a few minutes, wipe off, spray again, and use a toothnrush or cutip to get into tight spots, but it takes the effort out of cleaning, highly recommended, it has made this project so much easier.
The black 'plug' in the case is a rolled up rubber glove, lol, as the waterpump shaft contects to it's drive inside the case, so the glove keeps the crud out.
Lots of chain crud slung between the waterpump and engine case, and the last thing to really clean on this bike, as you can't get to it otherwise(without removing the waterpump itself).
The cooling system worked fine, but at almost 40k miles and 21 years, it will get a few flushes with white vinegar and distilled water.
I already replaced the thermostat, upgraded the electric fan, and have a new radiator cap and waterpump seals on the way.
I used Dawn Powerwash as usual to get the grease and crud off, and it works better than any degreaser I've used, at least without toxic fumes, lol.
Spray on, wait a few minutes, wipe off, spray again, and use a toothnrush or cutip to get into tight spots, but it takes the effort out of cleaning, highly recommended, it has made this project so much easier.
The black 'plug' in the case is a rolled up rubber glove, lol, as the waterpump shaft contects to it's drive inside the case, so the glove keeps the crud out.
Waterpump disassembly.
I am rebuilding the waterpump, and still waiting on some of the seals to put it back together.
If you ever wondered what the inside of your Busa's waterpump looks like, or if you ever need to rebuild your Busa's waterpump...it looks the same, and is done the same way.
4 bolts and 3 hose connections are all that holds the waterpump to the case.
There are 3 different points inside the waterpump that can leak(4 if you count the oil seal), so you are better off to replace them all.
Most of it comes apart easily, but one of the seals can be a challenge to remove.
It has a metal sleeve, is a push fit, and kind of tight...as it has thread-locker from the factory.
You can see how much damage it took to remove one of the seals.
The other 2 seals, especially the big one that's similiar to an o-ring, were petrified, lol
The waterpump has 2 bearings inside of it, for the impellar shaft.
One bearing slides out, the other bearing is pressed into the case side of the waterpump housing, and that bearing Can easily be knocked out and a new one pressed in, but fortunately Both bearings are in great shape.
So this is the waterpump completely disassembled, minus the pressed in bearing.
All and all, another simple job, and peace of mind, that the cooling system 'shouldn't' fail out on a ride...shouldn't...lol
I am rebuilding the waterpump, and still waiting on some of the seals to put it back together.
If you ever wondered what the inside of your Busa's waterpump looks like, or if you ever need to rebuild your Busa's waterpump...it looks the same, and is done the same way.
4 bolts and 3 hose connections are all that holds the waterpump to the case.
There are 3 different points inside the waterpump that can leak(4 if you count the oil seal), so you are better off to replace them all.
Most of it comes apart easily, but one of the seals can be a challenge to remove.
It has a metal sleeve, is a push fit, and kind of tight...as it has thread-locker from the factory.
You can see how much damage it took to remove one of the seals.
The other 2 seals, especially the big one that's similiar to an o-ring, were petrified, lol
The waterpump has 2 bearings inside of it, for the impellar shaft.
One bearing slides out, the other bearing is pressed into the case side of the waterpump housing, and that bearing Can easily be knocked out and a new one pressed in, but fortunately Both bearings are in great shape.
So this is the waterpump completely disassembled, minus the pressed in bearing.
All and all, another simple job, and peace of mind, that the cooling system 'shouldn't' fail out on a ride...shouldn't...lol
.....
Push in seal with factory thread-lock
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