Kawasaki Concours

[sixpack577]

I have a list somewhere of all the shims I was going to order. Pretty much every size and just use what I needed. Figured it was better that way than taking the bike apart, awaiting days for shims to arrive and forgetting how to put all those parts back together. Lol
I have to say though, the reason I find it so intimidating, is because I have never done that job. Only valves I have adjusted are the Ones on my DR650, which just requires you to loosen the nut and turn with flat head to adjust and then tighten nut again and done.

I have a shim kit, but it's for 7.48mm, these are 9.48mm(diameter).
I considered buying a new kit, but they only come with 3 shims of each size(thickness).
So it's possible that I could need 4 or more of the same size.
For that reason, I'll just order individually based on what I need.
And, I promise you, you can do this job no problem.
It is very straight forward, and a simple process.
Room to work always being the only real effort.
Again, with it all apart it looks easier to do in this frame.
I'll post some pictures once I get the valve cover off. I'll know for sure then how much room to work will come into play, with the frame being above the valve cover.

 

[sixpack577]

The valves are checked the same way you do on the DR650 too, only you have to rotate the engine to 3 or 4 different positions to check all 16 valves.
Check a few, rotate the engine, repeat.
Once you have clearances checked, if any are out or close to being out, then pick the correct thickness shim to replace it with, unbolt the cam journals(I safety wire or ziptie the cams to the chain, so that the teeth don't come out of the chain, and the timing is not changed).
Lift the cam on the non gear end, and that gives you room to lift off the bucket.
The shim is sitting on top of the valve stem, if it's not, it's just lightly stuck to the inside of the bucket with oil.
Swap them, measure again, reassemble, done.
It can take a little while(especially just removing fairings and parts to get to the valve cover), but again, not a hard job.
Don't be afraid of it when the time comes.

 

[mabupa]

The valves are checked the same way you do on the DR650 too, only you have to rotate the engine to 3 or 4 different positions to check all 16 valves.
Check a few, rotate the engine, repeat.
Once you have clearances checked, if any are out or close to being out, then pick the correct thickness shim to replace it with, unbolt the cam journals(I safety wire or ziptie the cams to the chain, so that the teeth don't come out of the chain, and the timing is not changed).
Lift the cam on the non gear end, and that gives you room to lift off the bucket.
The shim is sitting on top of the valve stem, if it's not, it's just lightly stuck to the inside of the bucket with oil.
Swap them, measure again, reassemble, done.
It can take a little while(especially just removing fairings and parts to get to the valve cover), but again, not a hard job.
Don't be afraid of it when the time comes.

Thanks for all the advice. I also have the famous Fred Harmon(?) dvd set with all the instructional videos that I could watch to get an idea of what I’m getting into.

 

[Zerks]

The valves are checked the same way you do on the DR650 too, only you have to rotate the engine to 3 or 4 different positions to check all 16 valves.
Check a few, rotate the engine, repeat.
Once you have clearances checked, if any are out or close to being out, then pick the correct thickness shim to replace it with, unbolt the cam journals(I safety wire or ziptie the cams to the chain, so that the teeth don't come out of the chain, and the timing is not changed).
Lift the cam on the non gear end, and that gives you room to lift off the bucket.
The shim is sitting on top of the valve stem, if it's not, it's just lightly stuck to the inside of the bucket with oil.
Swap them, measure again, reassemble, done.
It can take a little while(especially just removing fairings and parts to get to the valve cover), but again, not a hard job.
Don't be afraid of it when the time comes.

You make it sound easy ! Thanks... I have mechanical background and adjusted the 750 Honda ( my first bike ) and my 83 GS 1100 E with the screw and nut adjusters... super easy on the Honda with the caps in the valve cover for easy access... no valve cover removal.

My Busa motor is stitting on the lift waiting for me to install it into my new chassis. Plenty of room and I have a shim kit. I already measured all the clearances and wrote it all down... I just need to follow your instructions and get it done. I have the manuals for both the Concours and the Busa.

 

[sixpack577]

I checked the valves yesterday...and All 16 are in spec!
That saves me Alot of time!
The check is about as easy as they come, line up one timing mark, check half the valves, rotate the engine 180° to the same mark, check the rest, done.
Feeler gauges are easy to get between every valve and cam lobe.
Had I had to swap shims, sure, it looks like a pain in the azz with oil feed tubes and the variable valve timing mechanism, but still doable.
Regardless, I don't have to order and wait on shims, or do more work.
As said before too, the bike starts instantly, hot or cold, and idles an runs very smoothly.
At this point, I'm going to reassemble it, and check the valves again in about 5k miles.
If all goes well, that should put me in January/Febuary, usually the coldest months of the year here, and when I do the least riding.
I'm also going to wait until then to do an injector cleaning and throttle body sync.
As good as it runs, there is no sign of any need for either right now.
Given that time to work on it is a big deal lately, and I want to ride, they can wait until winter.
I was also happy to see that inside the engine literally looks new.
The previous owner definately kept the oil changed on time. No burnt oil or smell, the aluminum is clean, no crud, nothing.
All I need to do is wipe the clean oil off, wipe the gasket and surfaces with rubbing alcohol, apply black rtv, and put the valve cover and timing cover back on(I have a new valve cover gasket and cam position sensor o-rings).
New sparkplugs are in, same stock NGK iridiums, anti-siezed and torqued.
I swapped them with the valve cover off, which gave me more room to get the torque wrench in there, but it still wouldn't be hard to change plugs with the valve cover on.
And, I didn't feel like putting the valve cover back on yet, too much like work, lol.
So, on to something more fun for the moment, the Black Widow header...shiny parts!

 

[sixpack577]

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[Zerks]

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Awesome pictorial and directions! I thought you might have mentioned something about removing the
V V CT device on the end of the intake cam. According to Steve they have a possibility of snapping off when the motor is pushed extremely hard. The other little upgrade I have heard mentioned before is doing away with the cam chain automatic adjuster by replacing it with a manual one. I will be doing the cam chain adjuster for sure when the valves get reset. If I go on to do the pipe and flash like you just did then I will be tempted to rip on it more often and the V V CT might have to go too. Your thoughts?

 

[sixpack577]

Awesome pictorial and directions! I thought you might have mentioned something about removing the
V V CT device on the end of the intake cam. According to Steve they have a possibility of snapping off when the motor is pushed extremely hard. The other little upgrade I have heard mentioned before is doing away with the cam chain automatic adjuster by replacing it with a manual one. I will be doing the cam chain adjuster for sure when the valves get reset. If I go on to do the pipe and flash like you just did then I will be tempted to rip on it more often and the V V CT might have to go too. Your thoughts?

The stock automatic cam chain tensioner is ok with me, and I havn't heard of them failing.
Manual cam chain tensioners need checked and adjusted, I'll pass if I don't need it.
Not for this type of engine/near stock, and especially something that's low maintenance.
As for the variable valve timing; according to Steve, the flash raises the rpm from a 10k to 10.5 redline.
If you abruptly close the throttle above 10k, as opposed to rolling out of it, then the roll pin that is holding the vvt unit is excessively stressed.
The pin will wallow out the hole it's in, and could eventually cause the whole vvt unit to break off...which would most likely cause catastrophic engine damage.
It's not a big concern of mine, but wide open shifting isn't the best idea. I won't run this bike to redline very often anyway.
As far as removing the vvt unit, that's not a good idea, and I doubt it's even possible, at least without different electronics.
The Variable valve timing helps you make power at low to mid, and mid to high range. Removing it would result in a noticeable power loss, and sluggish acceleration.
Regardless, the vvt unit on the Concours is fine, works very well, and the flash is a great and safe improvement, only that if you have the redline raised, and like to run a bike hard(I have my tendancies, lol) then you can stress the vvt unit, simply because it is heavy, a couple pounds, is hanging off the end of the intake cam, and a roll pin is all that keeps it from spinning on the shaft.
But, even running this bike hard, rarely would push me past 10k, I'm not drag racing it, or shifting on the limiter.
I really wouldn't be concerned about it.

 

[sixpack577]

I also didn't mention the vvt unit because I did not adjust the valves, I was fortunate that they were all in spec.
I have never looked into the specific shim replacement for the Concours engine either, so I am unsure that the vvt unit needs to be removed at all, but I can't see why it would.
If the cam chain tensioner was out, and the cam journals removed, that should be enough slack to lift the cams enough to get the shim buckets out, or enough slack to take the cam/cam gears out of the chain.
At least there is room to work on it.
I think I'de rather adjust valves in this bike(when the time comes), vs the several I've done in the past, where the frame rails are tight against each side of the head, making cam removal/timing a real challenge.

 

[Zerks]

I also didn't mention the vvt unit because I did not adjust the valves, I was fortunate that they were all in spec.
I have never looked into the specific shim replacement for the Concours engine either, so I am unsure that the vvt unit needs to be removed at all, but I can't see why it would.
If the cam chain tensioner was out, and the cam journals removed, that should be enough slack to lift the cams enough to get the shim buckets out, or enough slack to take the cam/cam gears out of the chain.
At least there is room to work on it.
I think I'de rather adjust valves in this bike(when the time comes), vs the several I've done in the past, where the frame rails are tight against each side of the head, making cam removal/timing a real challenge.

Thanks for the update on how things are suppose to hold together. The information I gathered was from the Concours owners website where others mentioned the adverse possibilities.
Just like you I see no reason to run past 9K... it moves out just fine in that rpm range.

 

[sixpack577]

Bmc air filter in, air box covers and intake sensor back on.
Full Black Widow on.
Crank timing cover on.
Valve cover and radiator next.

 

[sixpack577]

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[ROADTOAD1340]

Great thread Six , you are onto it and having fun by the sounds , now looking forward to your rides .

 

[MonkeyButtRides]

I traded one dinosaur for another, my 2020 Yamaha Raptor 700se 4wheeler/atv...for a 2012 Kawasaki Concours.

Congrats, bike looks super clean and well kept. I love the color, I mean lime green would have been the $h1t! LOL but the Burgandy is sweet. I wish you many happy miles in your future.

 

[sixpack577]

Congrats, bike looks super clean and well kept. I love the color, I mean lime green would have been the $h1t! LOL but the Burgandy is sweet. I wish you many happy miles in your future.

Thank you sir!

 

[sixpack577]

Getting closer.
I may crank it and do the coolant flush later today, if I get time.
The previous lower cam sensor o-ring oil leak is what caused all of the mess.
The outside of the radiator cleaned up well.
All the fins are clean and clear of oil and dirt now.

 

[sixpack577]

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[sixpack577]

Great thread Six , you are onto it and having fun by the sounds , now looking forward to your rides .

Thanks man, no thrills in this thread, just some maintenance and basic mods, on a bike I'm almost ashamed to admit how much I like, lol.

 

[sixpack577]

I changed the grips too.
I did not like the stock grips, and put on a pair of ProGrip 761
I have put these on quite a few bikes over many years, and they are my favorite...I have 2 more new pairs on the shelf now...time to order more, lol.
This Concours has(had) working factory heated grips.
I have no need for them, as I have and prefer heated gloves.
There's no good way to get the stock grips off and not ruin them either.
I unplugged both from the harness, and cut the wire at the grip. This way, I can buy a generic, aftermarket set of grip heaters, wire them to the stock harness, plug them in, use any grips I want, and be able to use the stock controller on the dash.
That's a simple project for a future snow day, I do like for everything to work.
For now, I have comfortable grips that make a Huge difference to me.

 

[sixpack577]

Coolant flushed, once with with white vinegar and distilled water, and very little color of the coolant that was in it came out in the first flush.
The second flush was just water, and came out clean and clear.
The coolant I originally drained was clean and had certainly been changed at some point.
The previous owner definately kept up with the maintenance.
I refilled it with Engine Ice, test rode it, and let a friend ride it.
Wow, with the flash and pipe, the bike is noticeably stronger, and runs cooler(catalytic converter gone, fans on sooner in flash, and Engine Ice).
The exhaust has a deep tone, without being too loud, I've yet to try it without the baffle.
A big improvement in midrange torque, and smooth on/off throttle response.
I have new front and rear brake pads to go on next, right after I tackle the hardest part of all this...getting the fairings back on, lol.
I'll be cutting the windshield this week as well.