5w 40 full synthetic

Red Line 10w-40 full syn motorcycle oil
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grade 5 ester base stock, the best there is bar none.
 
I feel ya bro, I live over in Little Rock and all the riders recommend 10-40 year round. I have also been told not to use full synth until the bike has at least 8-10 k on it.
I think that waiting more than normal break-in to use synthetic oil is unnecessary.

Some would say it is ok from day one.  I'm still a little old fashioned on that, if Suzuki supplies it with dyno oil, I figure I should get it through break-in first.

Anyone here have a more educated response than mine on this subject?

Blue1
Suzuki does not fill with synthetic and uses mere mortal engine oil for reasons of two and neither per se' have to do all that much with it not being OK to do so from the get go  .

The corporate bean counters would have to up the MSRP a tad bit if filled with synlube and since the oil needs drained early to remove machining swarf , other wear metals from the transmission and camshaft asperities being knocked down during run-in , Si permiation from the castings ect--- practicality prevails on the latter concerning filling with synlube which would not help Suzuki or the consumer short or long term .

Also , unless things have changed the Suzuki oil filter uses a drainback valve made of silicon which is not as resistant to seal swell as other filters utilizing nitrile type Buna-N compounds .

I can always tell if Busa and other engines have had a true PAO/ester synthetic in them for long because the two transmission seals and valve guide seals will still be pliable , even after many heat cycles , miles and time .
 
Is it ok to run 5W40 in the summer heat here in Memphis 10 where temps get around a 100 degrees. And if so what brands are you  guys and girls running in smiliar weather.   Feed Back Please
My point of view is that I look at the 5w-40's as liter bike and smaller displacement sprint race oils . There are 3 distinct different build aproaches with these and thats with laying the additive pack entirely to the side and out of the equation .

All of them can shear to a 30wt when used in a Busa during hard use and one of these type even starts life just barely into the 40wt scale . 12.49 cSt is the cutoff for high end of the 30wt range and this one starts new in the bottle at 13.0 cSt " centistokes " . The Castrol R4 .

Many 10w-40's are not much if any better along these lines especially when the inevitable fuel dilution is factored into it all .

There's going to be some changes in motorcycle engine clearances and engine oil formulas in the near future and along with that will come a new breed of oils for both EPA and economy reasons but when the need is to have full 40wt viscosity protection all year round , especially in the warmer climates there's no better way to assure that for the 1st gen Busa than to run a nice , well built 15w-50 true synthetic .
 
moutain can you reccomend a good 15 50 Motorcycle full synthetic blen motorcycle oil im jsut about to do a change and would love to give it a try.
 
shadiguy1 ,

I don't use synthetic motorcycle blends or recommend them as bang for buck. Primarily they are made by and used in european countries and the 10-30% portion of synthetic is actually used to enhance cold weather performance during cold starts and the warm-up phase . The pour point of most PAO base oils will be -40 to -60F whereas group I mineral oil even with the pour point depressant additives comes in more like +5F .

The Mobil 15w-50 from Walmart is good oil for these Busa's . I use Maxima Maxum4 Extra 15w-50 and it does not cost all that much more than the Mobil . Each " can " go 12 months in a Busa and some other bikes with ease .

Many of you guys and gals have friends that ride also so getting together and splitting a 20quart pail is a cost effective way . Other than that any bike shop that buys through Parts Unlimited can cut people deals when they choose . 7.00-8.00 per liter most generally .

A few of the oils touted on the internet look like little more than ultra expensive diesel oils to me .

Maxima Maxum 4 by liter - 4 liter jug - cases of each or by the 20quart pail .
 
I wanted to add that just as some of those 5w-40's are very thin 40wts verging on being an actual 30wt when new , some of these 15w-50 true PAO/Ester synthetics are on the middle portion of the 50wt scale which makes them to be
" not your fathers 50wts "  
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Marketing concepts or techniques and how the company chooses to do so can come into play and with that said a few of the 15w's could actually pass for being a true SAE 10Winter- on the lower end if tested using Cold Cranking Simulator ASTM D-5293 and or using the Mini Rotary Viscosity ASTM D-4684 methods for bench testing such . A modern 10w-50 of sorts .

One example of such marketing as i know it to be was the mineral based Mobil Delvac 1300S 15w-40 diesel oil . That oil did pass the test sequences needed to be called a 10w however after a zillion years of truckers and farmers buying 15w-40 it might not have been such a good marketing plan to put 10w-40 on the jugs .
 
Mountain I always enjoy your insight into oil facts and BS. What do you know about Redline oils and there ability to perform well in my 08 turbo bike.
 
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