How About An Oil Thread To Get Everyone In The Mood...LOL

Maybe in transmission fluid Mobil1 and Amsoil are the only ones. Not in auto, truck and bike oil. Many to choose from, including those.

Lotta good things about Mobil1 in certain apps. Like I said earlier, I've used their engine oil for years in my cars and boats. Ya, Royal Purple is proven to give HP - a very small amount at higher RPM's not normally run.

These bikes with 'wet' clutches that try to churn a froth (especially in the twisties) out of the oil require a different blend then a auto, boat, or even a big rig will.

Bottom line, any fresh oil, Dino or Syn, is good oil. Just there are some 'use specific' oils that are better. JMO
 
Maybe in transmission fluid Mobil1 and Amsoil are the only ones. Not in auto, truck and bike oil. Many to choose from, including those.

Lotta good things about Mobil1 in certain apps. Like I said earlier, I've used their engine oil for years in my cars and boats. Ya, Royal Purple is proven to give HP - a very small amount at higher RPM's not normally run.

These bikes with 'wet' clutches that try to churn a froth (especially in the twisties) out of the oil require a different blend then a auto, boat, or even a big rig will.

Bottom line, any fresh oil, Dino or Syn, is good oil. Just there are some 'use specific' oils that are better. JMO

No they were talking about all Mobil One products...but hey, not to be a oil snob, all of the other synthetic blends are a quality product. The Walmart oils test high as well. That is just my reason to use it.
 
Just tryin to learn. So Royal Purple, Red Line, Silkolene, Fuchs, Motul to name a few are blends? Meaning not made from a synthetic base.
Only Mobil1 and Amsoil?
 
Figured this was appropriate for this thread...

So I change my oil for the first time on my bike. I remove the drain bolt, all good. I crack the oil filter, which has a little nut on the top, it's a K&N. Well, that little nut hit the header before the filter is all the way unscrewed. What genius developed that?? So I yell alot and scratch my head (and other areas) while thinking... How about a hacksaw blade? Yea, no, not gonna get it. So I grab the sawsall and cut the nut off the end of the filter! I had a "nut-less" Fram filter to replace it with. Put my 3.8 qts of Mobil 1 10w-40 bike oil in and I'm good to go. Of course, I still need my swingarm/chain/brakes/brake lines and what not, but I'm a step closer! :thumbsup:
 
Just tryin to learn. So Royal Purple, Red Line, Silkolene, Fuchs, Motul to name a few are blends? Meaning not made from a synthetic base.
Only Mobil1 and Amsoil?

Fuchs Silkolene is fully synthetic ester based oil.

I used Mobile one and noticed a difference from the dino oil in engine noise
and tranny smoothness.

I went to Amsoil and again is seemed like an upgrade from Mobile 1.

Lastly I tried Silkolene and it is the bee's knee's, again a difference in tranny
and engine smoothness above Amsoil.

Will dino oil work...yes. Will it work as well...no. Also what you have to look at
is how well the oil is holding up close to the 3000 mile mark. If wallyworld oil
is testing...o.k. at initial use, is it breaking down after 2000 miles of use, that's
where your going to start getting wear. Motorcycles are tough on oil.
I haven't seen the tests...I'm just posing a question.

Regardless, I do know Selene loves Silkolene....and she is worth it and gets
what she loves :bowdown: Going on 36,000 miles and she runs like brand new.
 
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Repsol full syn is also a true ester based oil, not blend, designed for motorcycle racing and track proven, do a search, it's GREAT STUFF!!!
 
Just tryin to learn. So Royal Purple, Red Line, Silkolene, Fuchs, Motul to name a few are blends? Meaning not made from a synthetic base.
Only Mobil1 and Amsoil?

Now this was 5 years ago and the statements made are
from the Mobil People.
 
If you believe the crap you read on the label; if you believe you call Mobil's 800 number and ask the question, "How long a shelf life has oil?" The answer came back, "500 years."
Fast forward 30 some odd years with cases of old, straight 50w racing oil, you being in the A-Grade category sponsorship program, where sponsorship comes with unlimited cases handed to you.

Take that old oil chemistry engineering, add the 30 year progress of cylinder bore finishes, you pour in a 50/50 blend of 50w and whatever else is laying around, pours the other 2 quarts in the engine.

After 10k hard miles of abuse trying to blow up this bike for grins :laugh: I sure cannot blame decades old oil, mixed with 10w30, 5w30, or any kind of oil that was hanging around, was to top off the crankcase rather than open a new bottle or leaky old race cans of light sweet crude way to enter an oil thread is laugh it up you trying out all kinds of oil and I am blending so many different brands is oil is oil and no foots balls or roller bowling balls under glass has hurt any part of this bike that runs azz smooth as glass. :whistle:

Oil threads are as much fun as a tre tread on me. :bowdown:
 
Didn't read the thread but it always comes down to value received for money paid.

Dino oil for me. Change it every 3,000 miles like it's a religious rite. It also give me the opportunity to check out the rest of the bike, spot potential problems before they are major issues, clean everything, etc.

I will say this, though, the synthetic I used one time DID make it shift a hair more smoothly but I didn't think it was really the kind of thing I want to spend that much money on going forward.

After 62,000 miles and 20 or so oil/filter/crush washer changes, I have no complaints yet.

--Wag--
 
I really don't think it probably makes a difference with all the oils listed. However, I have a Buell 1125R as well as my busa, you want to hear a noisy engine, let me fire that up for you. You would think it was going to drop a rod!

I used Mobil 1 motorcycle synthetic in it, it was still pretty noisy. I used Amsoil and the noise ceased and the bike ran cooler and overall better. I will never use another oil besides Amsoil, the hype is true around the oil.

I just bought this busa pretty much new with 1460 on it. Changed the oil as soon as I got it home to Suzuki full race synthetic and a new Suzuki filter. 60 miles later and after a nice flush, changed it to Amsoil 10w40 and a new filter. All engines have a slight tick to them somewhere and I noticed one in the busa. Within 30 seconds of startup with the Amsoil in it, it quit. There is no substitute for Amsoil. :thumbsup:
 
ok my question is this

what viscosaty to use?

my bike just broke the 600 mile brake in and i changed to amsoil 10w40 and that is what i put in most of my bikes but , i was looking threw my suzuki book and it says you can go up to 20w50, so what should i run ?

i live in tx south tx . dont ride much in the cold so anything 50 or so is cold to me

and the summers can get up to 105 +- so with most of the rideing in the summer what weight should i go with !

also running the mile in march so i dont what to hinder my mile speeds !

any input is great thanks
 
ok my question is this

what viscosaty to use?

my bike just broke the 600 mile brake in and i changed to amsoil 10w40 and that is what i put in most of my bikes but , i was looking threw my suzuki book and it says you can go up to 20w50, so what should i run ?

i live in tx south tx . dont ride much in the cold so anything 50 or so is cold to me

and the summers can get up to 105 +- so with most of the rideing in the summer what weight should i go with !

also running the mile in march so i dont what to hinder my mile speeds !

any input is great thanks

JMO, I'd use 20W50. I'm trying 10W40 (and am skeptical) in South FL., your temps are a bit higher.

Personally, I wouldn't start using synthetic till I clocked a K or 2. Stuff doesn't break in well with synthetic. Again, JMO.
 
from break in to 37k I used mobile one mx4t mobile 1. The old formula. Yes there is a diff. from the new racing 4t, Ive seen the data. Then I ran out so I switched to amsoil 10w40. Only have 40k on it right now but I have 2 cases and 10 filters ready for the new season. I think I am gonna like the switch though:beerchug:
 
JMO, I'd use 20W50. I'm trying 10W40 (and am skeptical) in South FL., your temps are a bit higher.

Personally, I wouldn't start using synthetic till I clocked a K or 2. Stuff doesn't break in well with synthetic. Again, JMO.

ok

i have already clocked another 250 miles with the amsoil so im up to somewher around 840miles or so , got her out this weekend!

any how any more input on the 20w50?

anyone have thoughts on running this ?

ill be changeing it again in about 2 weeks , have to drill and tie wire the drain plug for the mile!

thanks
 
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