Accessories: swingarm spools

ratwell

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After taking some measurements of the distance between the swingarm spool mounts, I came to the conclusion that my factory yellow Suzuki paddock stand might not line up with the type of spools I used on my GSX-R1000.

Most stands these days (including the blue one from Suzuki) are adjustable in width but I'm making do with one for now.

I was curious about Oxford's spools that spin on a plain bearing vs. a standard fixed spool.

All parts are stainless steel.

The outer roller is probably going to get chewed up over time and would benefit from some electrical tape which just rotates with the roller.

01 Oxford Spinners.jpg


The Oxford's come in several sizes with the relevant ones for Suzuki being:

Black:
OX727 Bobbins/Spools M8x1.25
OX727S Bobbins/Spools M8x1.25

Silver:
OX827 Bobbins/Spools M8x1.25
OX827S Bobbins/Spools M8x1.25

The S models have a longer bolt and spacer which can be removed (and used in conjunction with a shorter bolt) turning a OX727S into a OX727, etc.

The M8 socket cap bolt is 45mm in length and protrudes slightly from the backside. 40mm would be better.

02 Oxford Spinners.jpg


Getting the Hayabusa up on this paddock stand is a challenge compared to my 2001 GSX-R1000 which is easy as pie.

The swingarm spool bosses are quite inset and may have clearance issues with some spools.

03 Right Spool.jpg


04 Left Spool.jpg


I saw these 990A0-65348-BLK spools at a dealership and passed on them but they look nice (there are a million choices out the for swing arm spools as you probably know already).

990A0-65348-BLK.jpg


The licence plate also gets in the way of my paddock stand handle...another reason to tidy up the tail.
 
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The outer roller is probably going to get chewed up over time and would benefit from some electrical tape which just rotates with the roller.
I have Pit Bull spools which look very similar to the Oxfords you have pictured at the top of your post. My Pit Bull spools work but they don't have the bearing. I've taped my Pit Bull spools like you mentioned and that did protect the spool from becoming scraped even without the spool rolling on a bearing. The tape had a tendency to start peeling off after a couple lifts though, even though I had the tape wrapped in the proper direction to coincide with the rotation of the lifting forks on the stand. No bigy, I just replaced the tape. I imagine a bearing would allow the tape to be reused many more times. I'd rather use delrin or aluminum spools and avoid the extra weight but if you're going to have steel spools, might as well have a bearing I guess. There's no reason you need to keep the spools on the bike either if you're concerned about extra weight. Just snug them in each time you lift the bike and then take them back off afterwards. I have heard of people threading a couple plain bolts in the boss to lift a bike but I'd worry about damaging the threads in the boss. I would also rather depend on an M10 for that being that there's no clamping force between parts.

The S models have a longer bolt and spacer which can be removed (and used in conjunction with a shorter bolt) turning a OX727S into a OX727, etc.
Go with a longer spool or a spacer. The little Pit Bull spools I have are difficult to grab with the lifting forks. If you use a forward handle stand, that requires you to position the lifting forks while standing on the side of the bike rather than right down at the back of the bike. Wider spools are easier to reach without bumping the swing arm.

The swingarm spool bosses are quite inset and may have clearance issues with some spools.
The small Pit Bull spools I have work but I see I have scraped the swing arm a couple of times. Wider would be better again.

My other bike had spool bosses even more inset than the busa and with some big wide spools, it was easy to get a forward handle rear stand on them. These were Vertical Horizon spools. I don't believe those are available anymore but I see some big, chunky looking spools fpr the busa online. It looks normal for a big sport bike, same as big chunky rearsets do.

I saw these 990A0-65348-BLK spools at a dealership and passed on them but they look nice
Those last ones you pictured are longer so I'd go with those over a low profile one.

The licence plate also gets in the way of my paddock stand handle...another reason to tidy up the tail.
Pit Bull makes a rear handle stand designed just for the busa. It says it clears the rear fender and license plate. I have one, I've used it and it lifts nicely but I never had the rear fender on the bike to tell how well it cleared.

Two things about rear stands:

#1 The normal design for a rear stand will probably be higher and a lot more difficult to lift and lower a large sport bike on. The Pit Bull rear handle rear stand designed for the busa is lower and offers a better leverage advantage at the start of the lift and at the end when setting the bike back down. You can raise the Pit Bull rear stand made for the Hayabusa an inch or so if you want but it's WAYYYY harder to lift.

#2 Any rear handle stand is more risky than a forward handle like the one made by Pit Bull. It sounds like you've used the rear handle stand you have before but for anyone who isn't used to it, the Hayabusa will be a lot bigger handful than a Gixxer. I know you can put a couple boards under the sidestand and get the bike almost vertical before lifting but you have to lower the bike too (with the side stand down). A rear handle stand would be ok if you have a spotter holding the bike before lifting and after setting it down. All by yourself with a Hayabusa, I would only recommend a rear handle stand for jobs where that type of stand is absolutely necessary. I've done everything so far with a forward handle. The only minor disadvantage is that the handle is in the way under the engine. The only reason I got the rear handle after 10 years of owning my busa was to support the swingarm when I removed rear suspension bolts. I used the rear handle spool stand in conjunction with a swing arm stand.

So that covers all your rear lifting needs IMHO, a forward handle rear stand and a swing arm pivot stand like a Heindl or better, an Abba. Throw in a Pit Bull fork lift stand with converter bar for steering pivot and you're set. I'd love to own that Abba skylift but even that looks like it could be tippy for some work involving high torque if you use a breaker bar.
 
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I have the pitbull spools as well. Don't mind the proximity with the swingarm. I like the fact that I can leave the Pitbull rear stand at it's lowest position, and makes lofting the bike simpler.
 
It sounds like you've used the rear handle stand you have before but for anyone who isn't used to it, the Hayabusa will be a lot bigger handful than a Gixxer.
I normally get the cup under the left stool and lean into the bike while I eyeball the right cup. Once I feel both spools are engaged, I walk around the back holding the handle and then lift. The first couple of times were nerve wracking but the geometry between the stand and spools is enabling and I just needed to adopt a technique to get it on and off without risk of a tip over.
I know you can put a couple boards under the sidestand and get the bike almost vertical before lifting but you have to lower the bike too (with the side stand down). A rear handle stand would be ok if you have a spotter holding the bike before lifting and after setting it down. All by yourself with a Hayabusa, I would only recommend a rear handle stand for jobs where that type of stand is absolutely necessary.
I used a 2x4 under the side stand as it was the only way to get the bike level enough to engage with the spools.

Having a spotter is a very good idea.
 
I have Pit Bull spools which look very similar to the Oxfords you have pictured at the top of your post. My Pit Bull spools work but they don't have the bearing. I've taped my Pit Bull spools like you mentioned and that did protect the spool from becoming scraped even without the spool rolling on a bearing. The tape had a tendency to start peeling off after a couple lifts though, even though I had the tape wrapped in the proper direction to coincide with the rotation of the lifting forks on the stand. No bigy, I just replaced the tape. I imagine a bearing would allow the tape to be reused many more times. I'd rather use delrin or aluminum spools and avoid the extra weight but if you're going to have steel spools, might as well have a bearing I guess. There's no reason you need to keep the spools on the bike either if you're concerned about extra weight. Just snug them in each time you lift the bike and then take them back off afterwards. I have heard of people threading a couple plain bolts in the boss to lift a bike but I'd worry about damaging the threads in the boss. I would also rather depend on an M10 for that being that there's no clamping force between parts.


Go with a longer spool or a spacer. The little Pit Bull spools I have are difficult to grab with the lifting forks. If you use a forward handle stand, that requires you to position the lifting forks while standing on the side of the bike rather than right down at the back of the bike. Wider spools are easier to reach without bumping the swing arm.


The small Pit Bull spools I have work but I see I have scraped the swing arm a couple of times. Wider would be better again.

My other bike had spool bosses even more inset than the busa and with some big wide spools, it was easy to get a forward handle rear stand on them. These were Vertical Horizon spools. I don't believe those are available anymore but I see some big, chunky looking spools fpr the busa online. It looks normal for a big sport bike, same as big chunky rearsets do.


Those last ones you pictured are longer so I'd go with those over a low profile one.


Pit Bull makes a rear handle stand designed just for the busa. It says it clears the rear fender and license plate. I have one, I've used it and it lifts nicely but I never had the rear fender on the bike to tell how well it cleared.

Two things about rear stands:

#1 The normal design for a rear stand will probably be higher and a lot more difficult to lift and lower a large sport bike on. The Pit Bull rear handle rear stand designed for the busa is lower and offers a better leverage advantage at the start of the lift and at the end when setting the bike back down. You can raise the Pit Bull rear stand made for the Hayabusa an inch or so if you want but it's WAYYYY harder to lift.

#2 Any rear handle stand is more risky than a forward handle like the one made by Pit Bull. It sounds like you've used the rear handle stand you have before but for anyone who isn't used to it, the Hayabusa will be a lot bigger handful than a Gixxer. I know you can put a couple boards under the sidestand and get the bike almost vertical before lifting but you have to lower the bike too (with the side stand down). A rear handle stand would be ok if you have a spotter holding the bike before lifting and after setting it down. All by yourself with a Hayabusa, I would only recommend a rear handle stand for jobs where that type of stand is absolutely necessary. I've done everything so far with a forward handle. The only minor disadvantage is that the handle is in the way under the engine. The only reason I got the rear handle after 10 years of owning my busa was to support the swingarm when I removed rear suspension bolts. I used the rear handle spool stand in conjunction with a swing arm stand.

So that covers all your rear lifting needs IMHO, a forward handle rear stand and a swing arm pivot stand like a Heindl or better, an Abba. Throw in a Pit Bull fork lift stand with converter bar for steering pivot and you're set. I'd love to own that Abba skylift but even that looks like it could be tippy for some work involving high torque if you use a breaker bar.
I use exactly the same setup with pitbull rear stand and pitbull spools. The pitbull spools I feel are too close and they are already scratched after 1 use.. I will look for longer non aluminum spools
 
One rear stand that really interests me from a garage organization perspective is the one from Moto-D with the swivel rollers:


However, it looks to me like there isn’t enough leverage with their design to lift up the rear end of the Busa easily while you try to keep the bike balanced…
 
I use Yoshimura spools with bearings on both bikes but my track stands are adjustable. Rolling spools make it easier to lift the bikes.
 
Never tried bearing equipped spools , I just use fixed . I like these Harris spools from UK , they extend out from lug enough for good stand clearance on stock Busa or on my custom ZX14 arm , and have a good outside flared end . I sometimes push the bikes around on the rear stand ( sliding on small mat ) , so I like the flare lip and put up with any scarring .
Pic of Harris Performance race spools with 8mm fitment , on stock Busa arm and the 14R , also pic of rare full titanium 1 piece spool , not best for my needs but included
IMG_20180727_162511.jpg
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IMG_20210904_082003.jpg
IMG_20180111_114642.jpg
IMG_20210719_175623.jpg
for a bit of fun ..

IMG_20180111_114657.jpg
 
Possibly a already answered question - but why not put the motorcycle into a Sport Chock ( Baxley or ? ) on the front to maintain its upright structure and then lift the rear spools? Would that not make it far easier and less OMG situations?
 
When I saw where the spools bolt to, I knew was gonna be a issue, to try and look down to line up the lift while balancing 580 lgs with one hand, and being off base by looking down...everytime I raised it up, I just knew was just a matter of time..no where to catch it if it decided to go.. :(

I bought a chock, locks front wheel in, its done..best money I spent
 
I don't think all wheel chocks lock the front wheel in, is that specific to certain models. My bike is soon to arrive and I know my condor does not. I heard many good things on here about a woodcraft but i think they only make rear, but Baxley I believe has the option to lock. I guess they all would work as your lifting essentially straight up but there is some initial pullback is there not?
 
My trade in BMW K1600GT has a center stand which of course one cannot do on the Busa that i know of at least. That would have been just too easy but alas this will work perfectly. I was beginning to panic as i put my bike between two summer cars. I had visions of well ... a direct hit on the Shelby :) I knew there had to be a safe alternative. Thanks for posting photos - problem solved and now it's merely which spool to be installed on the rear. Cheers
 
A center stand is available for Hayabusas FYI.
For a gen1.
The gen2 frame is the same with the exception of 2 extra holes for fairing tabs to push into, and not having the centerstand mounts.
The gen3 also uses the same frame, but with no mention of a center stand for it, I would think the mounts for it are not there either, unfortunately.
 
Possibly if you change out exhaust and install for example full brocks one side outlet. Then it would free up real estate allowing installation areas, but, unless someone can please advise with the stock cans I don't see any place since the exhaust runs down the middle and up. Could be completely wrong but any pics i saw had no room for anything on the underside. It may also hang to low causing cornering issues if attached below. The motorcycle I have now with stand tucks up underneath clean. It was built to have one. It's like suzuki decided it was not required. They likely could have , and while at it included heated grips, lower pegs etc. All good
 
Oh you can get their heated grips...for $500...Insanity.
And regardless of clearance, the gen2 and likely the gen3(I am unsure)has nowhere on the frame to mount a center stand to...but I would like one also.
 
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