Australia - Gen2 RCC Stage 1 Kit Build

So I started with 6 psi in the BOV and 4 psi on the wastegate.
The power is already quite noticeable to me (although probably laughable to the guys who've already been there and done that).
I'm keen to slowly turn up the boost with various springs over time and see how it goes! Now I fully appreciate Richard's work put into those boost compensation tables!

I have a question: Are you able to program ECU Editor to once again utilise the A-B-C ride mode switch? I'm not fussed as I just prefer 100% 'A' mode 100% of the time, but I am just curious.
 
Changed wastegate springs again today. I think I'm pretty satisfied now with 12 psi boost with 98 octane fuel. I like how it rides now.

Keen for dyno next week! Results will be posted here.

Going to Tig weld some Stainless Steel 1/8" NPT bungs into the exhaust for a future sensors.
20230109_155241~2.jpg

I will need to make my own stainless dash plate for some Autometer gauges. I shall keep the analogue gauge asthetic going.
 
VNE said:
Changed wastegate springs again today. I think I'm pretty satisfied now with 12 psi boost with 98 octane fuel. I like how it rides now.

Keen for dyno next week! Results will be posted here.

Going to Tig weld some Stainless Steel 1/8" NPT bungs into the exhaust for a future sensors.
View attachment 1660179
I will need to make my own stainless dash plate for some Autometer gauges. I shall keep the analogue gauge asthetic going.
Click to expand...
I just took off my Autometer gauges as they are useless. Boost pressure doesn’t sit still it just bounces everywhere, my fuel pressure is all set up ready to go. I don’t need to see it. Took both of them off and mounted my gear indicator and a 2 port usb in it. Much better use. When I’m hitting it hard I can’t see either gauge is another reason.
 
Today, I added the Brocks Clutch Cushion kit and the single piece Clutch Mod.
The clutch lever is noticably stiffer and the clutch bites close to the bars.
Without the back torque limiter and no more slip, it feels like how my older bikes used to ride like!

It feels so much nicer to ride and launching from stationary is much improved.
The bike has only travelled 35k km since new and it's the first time the clutch has been opened up. Upon inspection, the base washer under the spring washer was already missing from the factory!

Now with no base washer, judder spring and thin fiber (large inner diameter), I added the three new parts being the thick fiber plate, cushion ring and dual cushion ring, the clutch packs in tight! The clutch lever cam adjustment makes the clutch lever so much better!

Now off to the Dyno!

All I have to do now is wear it in so I can wear it out! :devil:
 
Today was the big day. CRACKED 300 HP!!!
Here is the Link to Dyno Video and test results!!!


Shout outs to RIchard's RCC Stage 1 kit really delivers the performance!!! And Yuri Mechanical for his expertise and last but not least, all of your expertise here at the Org who helped me throughout the build process!!!

Stuff done:
98 Octane fuel
12 psi wastegate
6 psi in the Tial BOV
APE heavy valve springs
Titanium valve retainers
Wössner 9:1 Pistons and Rods.
10mm Engine Studs
Cometic Gaskets throughout
Brocks Ultra Light Clutch Mod
Brocks Clutch Cussion Kit
HEL braided brake lines
Brembo 19 RCS Corsa Corta front brake master/lever
SuperSprox steel18 front 43 rear
EK 530 Chain
 
Last edited:
A problem not enjoyed by many.... a C42 error code.

My mechanic read the bin file of the supplied map and it is set up for USA bikes.
Being an Australian bike, the immobiliser setup is different.

An immobiliser deletion from the ECU corrected the disabled fuel pump problem.

It is said that the supplied RCC turbo map may not cause a problem, but it depends what Hayabusa build you have within your respective country. The USA build and many others may not pose a problem, but it seems to be here.

The problem is now fixed with a reflash omitting the immobiliser function that looks for a 100 ohm circuit input, thereby ignoring it.

If you want an immobiliser, just use a switch on the fuel pump. I'm going with a single channel radio frequency with rolling encryption and a remote key fob to arm it when I park the bike. Simple. No more C42!
20230121_205342.jpg
 
Clutch Update:

The Brocks Clutch Mod is a great product and works well.

The Clutch Cushion Kit is proving to be a slight problem. From my experience so far, a clutch slave master support bracket is needed and should be recommended for anyone using heavier clutch springs! The slave master is flexing and losing power to the push rod.
The clutch lever grabs close to the bar as it is (which is great) but due to the loss of power by flexing the slave cylinder, it desperately needs a support bracket or the clutch grabs slightly even with the lever is pulled all the way in. As a consequence, finding neutral is almost impossible to select.

It seems to me that the clutch pack is slightly too thick. I ordered a clutch slave master support bracket.
I also need to swap out for some thinner fibers and see how we go.

I may just end up doing a whole new basket upgrade.
 
Final thoughts on ending this thread:

The RCC Stage 1 kit has proven to be a very reliable ride! You could seriously use it as a daily street bike with 300+ hp. An extended swing arm was not needed.

The brake upgrade helped enormously.

The Brocks Ultra Light Clutch Mod and Cushion Kit has turned out to work flawlessly and is a serious improvement over stock OEM. -all I had to do is install a slave cylinder support bracket and make sure the clutch pack is not over thickness and it works as advertised better than fine!

C42 Error code fix only requires the immobiliser to be deactivated in the ECU. Add your own custom immobiliser if you want one.

C40 Error code fix only required a clutch lever switch assembly replacement. The Low Speed Idle Valve was working fine.

I will upload a final video of riding the bike.

This brings this project to an end!

It's been fun.
 
VNE said:
Final thoughts on ending this thread:

The RCC Stage 1 kit has proven to be a very reliable ride! You could seriously use it as a daily street bike with 300+ hp. An extended swing arm was not needed.

The brake upgrade helped enormously.

The Brocks Ultra Light Clutch Mod and Cushion Kit has turned out to work flawlessly and is a serious improvement over stock OEM. -all I had to do is install a slave cylinder support bracket and make sure the clutch pack is not over thickness and it works as advertised better than fine!

C42 Error code fix only requires the immobiliser to be deactivated in the ECU. Add your own custom immobiliser if you want one.

C40 Error code fix only required a clutch lever switch assembly replacement. The Low Speed Idle Valve was working fine.

I will upload a final video of riding the bike.

This brings this project to an end!

It's been fun.
Click to expand...
You aren't done.... trust me lol.
 
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