Australia - Gen2 RCC Stage 1 Kit Build
- Thread starter VNE
- Start date
TonyM995
Registered
It’s all good Jeff, you can’t make everyone happy. The slave support probably doesn’t hurt and the lowering links are probably good enough.
I have the Brock’s window links and recall others saying they are no good and the Soupys are the ones to get.
I’m waiting to see some onboard riding footage still.
I have the Brock’s window links and recall others saying they are no good and the Soupys are the ones to get.
I’m waiting to see some onboard riding footage still.
Unfortunately in this case, yes. Newton's Third Law came into affect.
I could see the slave cylinder was visibly flexing under hydraulic pressure when opposing higher spring pressure therefore reducing clutch effectiveness. Luckily, support brackets are made for the gen 2. I didn't want to wait for it to fatigue and crack.
Now that the support bracket is installed, the clutch lever no longer feels spongy and the clutch grabs closer to the bar. It's also a more positive and reliable feel. There's more bounce back in the lever.
Window links are great; they're also nearly $200. Cost per inch varies a lot it seems. I only need a 2" drop to match the Trac Dynamics 2" drop front fork inserts, but it seems I've been ghosted on that order since October last year. He is impossible to get in contact with. Maybe I'll try Morse Code next time because telephones and amicable emails don't provoke any response.
My bank is investigating and hopefully I get a chargeback to my account, or possibly insurance claim, but I don't like my chances. I may just write it off as a learning experience when purchasing stuff from abroad.
Update:
5000 km later of endless Hayabusa fun and many, many boosts, I forgot to factor in during the build that by installing higher tension valve springs which naturally puts more tension on the cam lobes and in turn requires more chain pressure to rotate the cam shafts, definitely needs a heavy duty cam chain and gears! I thought 300HP would be ok, but nope! I will measure the stretch comparison to a new chain and post back here.
Pulling the engine out back very out very soon to replace it all and change out a few other things and install an RCC Throttle Body Clamp and ditch those rubber boots. I'll take some pics.
I tell people I'm actually excited to break open the engine again and they pull a face at me. Well, if I paid someone to do this all for me, I wouldn't learn anything right?
Taking a nice long break from work soon so I'm keen to work on this beast again! @JeffSyh you are right, I'll never be finished with this beautiful machine called the Hayabusa. I'm addicted.
5000 km later of endless Hayabusa fun and many, many boosts, I forgot to factor in during the build that by installing higher tension valve springs which naturally puts more tension on the cam lobes and in turn requires more chain pressure to rotate the cam shafts, definitely needs a heavy duty cam chain and gears! I thought 300HP would be ok, but nope! I will measure the stretch comparison to a new chain and post back here.
Pulling the engine out back very out very soon to replace it all and change out a few other things and install an RCC Throttle Body Clamp and ditch those rubber boots. I'll take some pics.
I tell people I'm actually excited to break open the engine again and they pull a face at me. Well, if I paid someone to do this all for me, I wouldn't learn anything right?
Taking a nice long break from work soon so I'm keen to work on this beast again! @JeffSyh you are right, I'll never be finished with this beautiful machine called the Hayabusa. I'm addicted.
The cam chain hadn't stretched, but the drive chain did 
Over 10,000km has passed on this build now and frequent oil changes and air filter cleans.
Valve clearances are fine.
Running tight and sounds good. Always get good oil and change it frequently.
Turbo itself is running great.
The blow off valve was worth getting.
Swing arm extension wasn't needed.
She drinks fuel like a drunk sailor.
With the bike's weight reduction and 313 hp, it's perfect for picking up the milk and bread as a daily.
This bike was a build intended for reliability, not economy, and it's proven it in mileage and maintenance. RCC gets my tick of approval
Never regretted a second of it.
Over 10,000km has passed on this build now and frequent oil changes and air filter cleans.
Valve clearances are fine.
Running tight and sounds good. Always get good oil and change it frequently.
Turbo itself is running great.
The blow off valve was worth getting.
Swing arm extension wasn't needed.
She drinks fuel like a drunk sailor.
With the bike's weight reduction and 313 hp, it's perfect for picking up the milk and bread as a daily.
This bike was a build intended for reliability, not economy, and it's proven it in mileage and maintenance. RCC gets my tick of approval
Never regretted a second of it.
ECLATUM
Registered
First of all, thank you for this post and these feedbacks over time, and through your post you answer a lot of questions that I asked myself.
A few quick questions though:
-What type of injector do you use?
-You don't have an intake temperature problem with this configuration? (no cooling) in road use?
There is still room in front of the radiator to put an exchanger, do you think? Even small?
You would have photos of your finished motorcycle from various angles ?
Thank you in advance for your answers, I will probably need to contact you for my editing (see my post)
A few quick questions though:
-What type of injector do you use?
-You don't have an intake temperature problem with this configuration? (no cooling) in road use?
There is still room in front of the radiator to put an exchanger, do you think? Even small?
You would have photos of your finished motorcycle from various angles ?
Thank you in advance for your answers, I will probably need to contact you for my editing (see my post)
Apologies for the late response.
Injectors can be OEM standard for Stage 1. You'll just run out of fuel delivery above 350 hp give or take. Other people here may correct that figure.
But at 315 hp, stock fuel injectors and air at 12psi is sufficient.
No temperature problems whatsoever throughout all seasons of the year.
There is room for a small heat exchanger on the right hand side of the bike, or other intercooler devices. So far I haven't needed a heat exchanger.
I insulated the air intake pipe with heat wrap so to minimise heat conduction into the pipe from the engine.
I can take more photos.
Injectors can be OEM standard for Stage 1. You'll just run out of fuel delivery above 350 hp give or take. Other people here may correct that figure.
But at 315 hp, stock fuel injectors and air at 12psi is sufficient.
No temperature problems whatsoever throughout all seasons of the year.
There is room for a small heat exchanger on the right hand side of the bike, or other intercooler devices. So far I haven't needed a heat exchanger.
I insulated the air intake pipe with heat wrap so to minimise heat conduction into the pipe from the engine.
I can take more photos.
michael parris heuberger
Registered
Hi. What size is your charger pipe and exhaust pipe? I have a turbo from RCC too but not a standard kit like stage 1,2,3. I run a 3 inch charge pipe and a 4 inch exhaust. DME made the hot side and DAS is making the cold side. My header is made of Inconel. The turbo is a Garrett G42-1200c. Injectors are ID 1050 and top are ID 2600.
Charge pipe and exhaust is standard RCC stage 1 kit contents, which is listed on his website. You get the choice of the screamer pipe, or a full tuned system and pay the difference for whatever you choose to go with. Screamer is best for drags. Full-system is best for street, but opinions differ.
Tony Nitrous
Registered
Are you local to Yuri ? Now I’ve moved out that way he’s my nearest tuner.
I was looking at taking work / jobs back to Brisbane as I’m not real familiar with builders or tuners around T’bar.
I was looking at taking work / jobs back to Brisbane as I’m not real familiar with builders or tuners around T’bar.
Honestly, Yuri is the best there is. He's more of an engineer, and well beyond just a mechanic. He also has a race track history and is also a brilliant software coder. People from all over the world send ECU's to him. His dyno tuning takes a scientific approach.
Two years later and 15,000km, it's time to change out all of the rubber fluid hoses.
I've noticed cracking in the external fuel pump hose and turbo oil return line.
Under the pressure of the turbo oil return, selection of higher quality clamps is necessary in this area I've found.
The bike is six years old and the RCC turbo installation is now two years old and still going strong.
I am replacing the radiator with a Stopp Radiator with better performance and durability and than OEM. I don't believe it needs this (even though the oil cooler was removed), but I'm onto my third radiator cap now; so instead of paying for another cap, I just bought a whole new core.
Not surprisingly, if your bike pees itself with coolant whilst it's still hot after a ride soon after being parked up, is a case of a bad radiator cap, or bad thermostat (or both). A bad radiator cap (with a bad seal) can lead to boil over by pushing fluid past the radiator cap seal and into the reservior tank, causing an overflow and squirt onto the ground. A simple issue, but everything gets old.
I've noticed cracking in the external fuel pump hose and turbo oil return line.
Under the pressure of the turbo oil return, selection of higher quality clamps is necessary in this area I've found.
The bike is six years old and the RCC turbo installation is now two years old and still going strong.
I am replacing the radiator with a Stopp Radiator with better performance and durability and than OEM. I don't believe it needs this (even though the oil cooler was removed), but I'm onto my third radiator cap now; so instead of paying for another cap, I just bought a whole new core.
Not surprisingly, if your bike pees itself with coolant whilst it's still hot after a ride soon after being parked up, is a case of a bad radiator cap, or bad thermostat (or both). A bad radiator cap (with a bad seal) can lead to boil over by pushing fluid past the radiator cap seal and into the reservior tank, causing an overflow and squirt onto the ground. A simple issue, but everything gets old.
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