not to mention cutting the bracing on the swingarm....
belt driven busa
- Thread starter spencersr
- Start date
not to mention cutting the bracing on the swingarm....
dabeechman
Registered
Good luck breaking something like this.
Poly Chain GT Carbon | Gates Corporation
I run the 8mm belt on my 500hp, 1000lb rail with two big paddle tires, and if I can't break it...I highly doubt you can on a single 190.
I just got a 300 kit and plan on convert it to belt drive and maybe RSD drive also. I have been doing research on HD part and It's way cheaper than scootwork. The Jackshaft can be done with some fabrication. The only thing I don't have info. yet is the length of the belts are available out there. Why do I want to do it? So I don't have to clean, lube, adjust, quieter, and different.
1ibandit
Registered
If you could keep me informed on what u find. I would like to go belt drive over the winter.
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Energizer
Registered
Guys from scootworks, told me that this belt mod
ScootWorks Hayabusa MondoDrive-14 Brute Force Belt Drive from SCOOTWORKS INC.
isn't availiable for 08+
is there any other options for GenII?
ScootWorks Hayabusa MondoDrive-14 Brute Force Belt Drive from SCOOTWORKS INC.
isn't availiable for 08+
is there any other options for GenII?
Hey dabeechman,
How well is that setup of yours holding up? I have a hayabusa sandrail with a chain drive setup and am considering a belt setup given the chain wear issues. I have also seen the Scoot Works website, but haven't been able to talk to them yet. I guess they are in some sort of moving process. If anyone here on the site has used that setup, I am curious to know how well the belt has held up.
The Big Red One
Registered
I like the belt idea a lot, next best thing to a shaft drive for low maintainence. I hate chains, but I'm not going to be pulling my swingarm off for belt changes, that negates any saved work over a chain. Sounded good for a minute tho 
SKnight
Registered
Having spent time in the Buell world I will pass and pass in a hurry. They're clean and once adjusted they don't need adjustment. To me those are the only advantages.
Lots of guys with Buell 1125 series bikes with the "upgraded" 1.25" (IIRC) wide belt were popping them in the 20K mile range including a few that lost belts at less than 10K. It was somewhat accepted that changing by 30K was good medicine, some even carried a spare belt under the seat, the tool kit has what you need to change it on the side of the road. They're roughly the same price and usually a chain at least lets you know it's going bad. A belt is good until it suddenly snaps. You might get lucky and see strings coming out the sides. BTW, all these are on street bikes. The race bikes from class road racing to drag racing rarely pop them. Raw strength isn't the issue. Long life is.
Yes, everything breaks. Everyone has bad parts but I see no advantage to a belt drive. If you want to be different or really can't stand cleaning your wheel from time to time then a belt drive kit may be for you, just understand that it has several shortcomings to offset it's advantages. But if 145HP at the crank in a 375lb wet bike pops them at around 20-30K how will it do against 180-200HP at the crank and a 600lb+ wet bike? Caveat emptor.
Lots of guys with Buell 1125 series bikes with the "upgraded" 1.25" (IIRC) wide belt were popping them in the 20K mile range including a few that lost belts at less than 10K. It was somewhat accepted that changing by 30K was good medicine, some even carried a spare belt under the seat, the tool kit has what you need to change it on the side of the road. They're roughly the same price and usually a chain at least lets you know it's going bad. A belt is good until it suddenly snaps. You might get lucky and see strings coming out the sides. BTW, all these are on street bikes. The race bikes from class road racing to drag racing rarely pop them. Raw strength isn't the issue. Long life is.
Yes, everything breaks. Everyone has bad parts but I see no advantage to a belt drive. If you want to be different or really can't stand cleaning your wheel from time to time then a belt drive kit may be for you, just understand that it has several shortcomings to offset it's advantages. But if 145HP at the crank in a 375lb wet bike pops them at around 20-30K how will it do against 180-200HP at the crank and a 600lb+ wet bike? Caveat emptor.
I hear whay you are saying, the problem for sandrails is the chain barely lasts one season if that and adjusting it is done more frequent than one would like. I was under the impression that scoot works is using different belt materials than Buell, but I could be wrong on that as well. I PM'd Dabeechman on the setup he has to see how its lasting, but haven't heard anything yet.
SKnight
Registered
I wrote in haste earlier, belts do have advantages such as you mention with regard to sand. It's the good old pro and con game. Gotta weigh out what's good for you. I wonder, does the belt end up packed with sand embedded in the rubber? I know anything the size of a BB or bigger can ruin a belt. A typical pebble can actually poke right through the belt leaving a hole the size of the pebble. No flap, no scrap of rubber, just a hole with frayed cords hanging out.
In the Buell world the jury is out on some of the aftermarket belts. As expected a few aren't worth spit including one guy that sheared the teeth on two belts but there are good reports on some of them.
I agree, pros/cons to everything. The sand world certainly has its challenges. I was thinking one could create sheet metal shield to protect the belt setup from sand just like a lot of Razors and other rigs that use CVT setups. You can't do that with a chain since the lack of air for cooling would increase the wear problem further. That's why I was hoping someone might have some feedback here on the Scootworks setup. If it has some positive reviews, it might be worth considering.....:bigsmile:
