Best OE brake pads

Sandow said:
@Yellow09
Its the countries choice.

If I ship a 70LBS massive parcel from Germany to Canada i pay 90 euros which equals 90 US dollars.
If I ship the same size / weight parcel from Canada to Germany I pay almost 400 dollars!

(I know that since I shipped parcels to canada when I moved here...!)
Click to expand...

So the USA and Canada decided to allow/require these huge shipping amounts between countries?
 
Sandow said:
@Yellow09
Its the countries choice.

If I ship a 70LBS massive parcel from Germany to Canada i pay 90 euros which equals 90 US dollars.
If I ship the same size / weight parcel from Canada to Germany I pay almost 400 dollars!

(I know that since I shipped parcels to canada when I moved here...!)
Click to expand...
The previous owner said he got the lines from 613Motorsports (in Ottawa). My bike has the race set up, I guess there are 2 different ones they offer...
 
@Yellow09
I went to my trusted suzuki stealership.
I ordered the brake pads you suggested.
I also got a set of Galfer braided brake lines (149 can dollars).
I wanted the clutch line too but they dont have them anymore apparently. I asked if they can order stock suzuki clutch lines (rubber).
Suzuki wants 249.00 dollars for a OEM rubber clutch line..... :crazy: :crazy: :crazy:
 
Sandow said:
@Yellow09
I went to my trusted suzuki stealership.
I ordered the brake pads you suggested.
I also got a set of Galfer braided brake lines (149 can dollars).
I wanted the clutch line too but they dont have them anymore apparently. I asked if they can order stock suzuki clutch lines (rubber).
Suzuki wants 249.00 dollars for a OEM rubber clutch line..... :crazy: :crazy: :crazy:
Click to expand...

CA has high prices but not compared to CN. :eek: With the horrid shipping prices it’s not even good for one of us for example to buy what you need and ship it to you. I never thought SS clutch lines were worth the money as the pressure required for brake lines far exceeds the pressure needed for a clutch. I’ve thought of renewing the clutch line as mine is 13 years old but I’ve never priced any, OEM or aftermarket. Here, dealer ordered parts prices are outrageous. I’d look anywhere other than a dealer.
 
Sandow said:
@Yellow09
I went to my trusted suzuki stealership.
I ordered the brake pads you suggested.
I also got a set of Galfer braided brake lines (149 can dollars).
I wanted the clutch line too but they dont have them anymore apparently. I asked if they can order stock suzuki clutch lines (rubber).
Suzuki wants 249.00 dollars for a OEM rubber clutch line..... :crazy: :crazy: :crazy:
Click to expand...

Is your clutch line toast?

You will find a big improvement with brake lines and the pads-they are a harder compound, the next change would be the MC, I have an R1 Brembo on mine-works stellar.
 
Yellow09 said:
Is your clutch line toast?

You will find a big improvement with brake lines and the pads-they are a harder compound, the next change would be the MC, I have an R1 Brembo on mine-works stellar.
Click to expand...
NO- its just still the first clutch line. I wont replace it as it is not bad or anything. I did not think its that expensive. My idea was just while Iam at it to replace both.
For now Iam doing the brakes. Do you have a link or anything for the master cylinder. I will have a look!
 
WuzzaCBXRider said:
CA has high prices but not compared to CN. :eek: With the horrid shipping prices it’s not even good for one of us for example to buy what you need and ship it to you. I never thought SS clutch lines were worth the money as the pressure required for brake lines far exceeds the pressure needed for a clutch. I’ve thought of renewing the clutch line as mine is 13 years old but I’ve never priced any, OEM or aftermarket. Here, dealer ordered parts prices are outrageous. I’d look anywhere other than a dealer.
Click to expand...
You are right. I will not replace the clutch. The guy at the dealer told me also not to worry about the clutch line unless there is an issue.
 
Sandow said:
NO- its just still the first clutch line. I wont replace it as it is not bad or anything. I did not think its that expensive. My idea was just while Iam at it to replace both.
For now Iam doing the brakes. Do you have a link or anything for the master cylinder. I will have a look!
Click to expand...
eBay is the place to shop for an R1 MC I believe...I forget what year mine is.
 
sixpack577 said:
EBC HH "Extreme Pro"
(ceramic embedded and different from EBC HH)
They Will stop you sooner.

Do Not buy any pad for street riding that says Race on it.
Race pads are for road racing only, as they need to be kept hot to function properly.
On a track, the races are short and braking is often, so they stay hot. On the street, in most cases, you are not constantly using the brakes, so the pads cool rapidly, if the get hot enough at all, and they do Not stop you very well.
Click to expand...
well im glad i just read this
 
I have had good luck with EBC HH pads, galfer, and Vesrah pads.
I have also had good luck with Arashi wave rotors with these setups. On my VFR I had warped a rotor in an emergency stop and installed Arashi wave rotors up front. I ran that setup for 20k miles without any issues with Galfer ceramic coated HH pads.
 
Bumblebee said:
Is your clutch line toast?

You will find a big improvement with brake lines and the pads-they are a harder compound, the next change would be the MC, I have an R1 Brembo on mine-works stellar.
Click to expand...
How hard was it to fit that MC under the wind screen? I have read threads on here that a radial mount MC doesn't fit.
Plus if I install on on my 2017, do I have to bypass the stock lines with new lines and get rid of ABS?
 
jcornwell101 said:
How hard was it to fit that MC under the wind screen? I have read threads on here that a radial mount MC doesn't fit.
Plus if I install on on my 2017, do I have to bypass the stock lines with new lines and get rid of ABS?
Click to expand...
It was on there when I got the bike...

It also has Helibars on it so I figure the MC fits fine......

My bike has HEL lines on it and no ABS so I can't speak on that although I suspect you wouldn't have to get rid of your ABS as many other people with ABS have gone this route as well....
 
You do not have to delete the ABS when you change the master cylinder.
Just swap the mc's and bleed the system.
If you bleed the new mc first(vacuum at mc bleeder, do not pump the lever, as you'll be pumping air), you will have little to no air in the rest of the system either.
 
When you bleed brakes on these bikes with abs is it like a car with the ABS Pump? Sometimes the ABS pump needs to be set into a service mode with a scanner to open up the valve. Then you can bleed it like normal and then you close the valve in the service mode? Or does the ABS pump bleed that part of the circuit when you bleed brakes.

I have only dealt with cars with ABS, so I am not sure how that works.
 
Use the front brake exit line bolt at the ABS pump like it was a bleeder screw.
Open/close the line bolt with a rag around the wrench, that will get rid of the air between the master cylinder and the ABS pump, then bleed the front master cylinder, then the front calipers.
You may need to repeat this a few times.
You do not need to touch the rear, as you are not opening it's hydraulic lines, only the front.
If you bleed the mc, and are seeing the fluid level in the resivor cup go down, as normal, only to see the fluid level rise again as you release the lever...that is air trapped between the mc and the abs pump, and will bleed out on the line exit bolt.
Air in the line between the abs pump exit and mc, will bleed out at the mc.
If a mc does not have a bleeder on it, then use it's line bolt as a bleeder.
The calipers will bleed as normal.
This eliminates any need of activating the ABS pump, which then bleeds through the mc, but you need Suzuki hardware/Dealer for that anyway, it has no benefit.
I have sucessfully bled current model ABS Gsxrs this way, and am about to do it again, as a 2 year brake fluid replacement.
There is nothing complicated about the process.
It's a regular brake bleed, and add in bleeding at the abs pump exit.
 
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