Best Oil To Use For The 99-07 Hayabusa's
- Thread starter Salty
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FrankPeden
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I use factory filters and Castrol 40W only. Also change it every 1K period.
Holy crap, with that interval I'd be changing oil every weekend!!! Completely unnecessary. Amsoil synth is changed every 5,000-7,500 miles. (That's) another reason its that good!
Paulie1300
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HP-4 10W-40 SEMI. sense I've owned the bike.Big D's Busa
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I have always used mobil 1 10w-40 motorcycle oil since 600 miles. Now I have 7k. Far as breakin it in to use synthetic no need to. In fact some cars come factory filled with synthetic.
Here's the deal. It's a water cooled engine whose operating temperatures are controlled by the thermostat and coolant. Anything but 10w-40 regular oil is overkill. I run 10w-40 Valvoline motorcycle oil off the shelf at any auto parts store at $3.98 a quart and a K&N or Mobil one or Suzuki filter. Change it every 3K and you're good to go.. You could run Castroil 10w-40 regular oil and that would be fine too. Do not add friction modifiers because it will affect the clucth action through deteriation of the clutch discs.
If this was an air cooled motor like my BMW's this would be a very long winded discussion bordering upon religious fanaticism. Just my 2 cents oil threads are way cool..Wardie
If this was an air cooled motor like my BMW's this would be a very long winded discussion bordering upon religious fanaticism. Just my 2 cents oil threads are way cool..Wardie
Zoinks!
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I'm sorry, but I have to comment on this post. First of all, when did you switch over to mobile 1? Was it after the cars had high mileage? If you're going to use synthetic, it's best to start early, before the engine gets a bunch of wear on it. Over years of use, the clearences get larger. Synthetic oil is thinner than conventional oil, which explains why your 86 mone used so much oil. Plus the fact that if the internals on the engine were modded at all, it's possible that it the clearance was too wide for mobile1. Also, another flaw with your test is that 1000 miles is WAAAAY too short for a synthetic oil test period. Mobile1, depending on the formula you use, is designed to stay in the engine anywhere from 5000-15000 miles. So to produce acurate results you would need to leave each oil in the engine for the amount of time the manufacturer says it's supposed to last. Oils act differently depending on the compound, so if you alter the time it spends in the engine from what it's designed to be; you're not going to get the results it's suppose to produce.
Synthetic oil is also MUCH better at keeping the engine clean. If you notice, changing mobile 1 after using conventional oil for a decent amount of time, the mobile 1 will come out darker black. Not because it breaks down faster, but because it's doing a better job of cleaning the engine. My uncle has a 92 lexus with close to 400,000 miles on it and has used mobile 1 from early on. He had to have the oil pan gasket replaced and the shop called him to come look at his car. They wanted to know what oil he used because after 200,000 miles the engine still looked brand new on the inside. Is oil the only factor in a long lasting engine? No. But using mobile 1 definitely won't hurt anything. Proper maintainance will do more for you than the type of oil you use, but if you're someone who tends to constantly be overdue for an oil change, synthetic would definitely be a better choice due to the fact that it can last longer. It IS true that some engines tend to use it faster, but that's due to the tollorences in the engine, not the oil. As stated earlier, the oil is thinner so high tollorence engines will use it faster than low tollorence ones.
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Zoinks!
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Oh, and I don't mean to sound like mobile1 is the only synthetic that works well. Amsoil is an excelent brand, as well. The amsoil filters aren't as good as some others though. It DOES have the best ellement, but the problem is that it doesn't have ENOUGH of it. As for the high-flow oil filters. . .They're great for flowing oil faster (hence the name), but they're bad for filtering. To flow more oil, you have to filter less. I'd much rather have the oil filtered really well than have it flowing super fast (provided that engine oil pressure is where it should be). I can't speak much for the other synthetic brands (castrol, valvoline, repsol, etc.) because I have no experience with them, but I'd bet they're probably at least better than it's brand conventional. As for me, I'll use either mobile1 or amsoil. Probably mobile1 because it's more readily available. Amsoil (at least around here) has to be ordered. You can't buy it in a store.
Zoinks!
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For those of you that are using mobile1 motorcycle oil. . . Is the 4T racing the only one available now? I was going to use mobile1 last time, but there were 2 or 3 (don't remember) different motorcycle oils and I wasn't sure which one to get, so I was going to do some reading first. I know the 2T was disscontinued, but I don't remember if there was a 2T racing or not. . .
FrankPeden
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Well everybody has opinion. My engine was build and set up for racing, yet it is a daily rider when I am home. I build extreme engines for vairous applications and have for a lot of years. I will use synthetic oil in my engines and only use one quart during an oil change. Now what I am saying is that if it requires 7 quarts, I use 6 quarts of the engine oil I normally use and 1 quart of synthetic.
But as I said everybody has an opinon. I am not here to say anybody is incorrect or correct. I am also not here to measure my C@#k with you guys.
With that being said, if you are comfortable with what you do then by all means do it.
OK, spoke my retarded mind. PEACE
Zoinks!
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4T is the one that you want
Thanks BA! That's what I was thinking, but didn't have the time to look it up when I asked cause I had to go back to class.
+ OEM Filter is what I use.
+1 Same here!
I completed a Phd at Stanford in Tribology, so here is my story and I am sticking to it.
Most important aspect to maintain in the Busa engine is to maintain hydrodynamic lubrication. Suzuki uses a coating in their cylinders which will produce different values as measured on the Stribeck curve when compared to the same lubricant as used on a BMW, or something else for instance. So, if we want to split hairs, the engine life on a specific engine with a specific lubricant has many variables and the oil which may be perfect for a Suzuki, may not be perfect for a Yamaha.
Under elasto hydrodynamic lubrication, the logorithmic transition diagram is really the only effective method to investigate how lubricant properties, additives and viscosity react with different grades of metals, alloys and coatings. Any data beyond this method is pure speculation, or clever marketing.
Most manufacturers have adequite lubricity, oxidation stability and maximum/minimum operating temperatures. What is important is how the contact with polymers and elostomers react with wear surfaces.
If you read this far, good gas for you, as I don't really have a Phd and I made all of this up. You may not have your click back.
Most important aspect to maintain in the Busa engine is to maintain hydrodynamic lubrication. Suzuki uses a coating in their cylinders which will produce different values as measured on the Stribeck curve when compared to the same lubricant as used on a BMW, or something else for instance. So, if we want to split hairs, the engine life on a specific engine with a specific lubricant has many variables and the oil which may be perfect for a Suzuki, may not be perfect for a Yamaha.
Under elasto hydrodynamic lubrication, the logorithmic transition diagram is really the only effective method to investigate how lubricant properties, additives and viscosity react with different grades of metals, alloys and coatings. Any data beyond this method is pure speculation, or clever marketing.
Most manufacturers have adequite lubricity, oxidation stability and maximum/minimum operating temperatures. What is important is how the contact with polymers and elostomers react with wear surfaces.
If you read this far, good gas for you, as I don't really have a Phd and I made all of this up. You may not have your click back.
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