BEST TIRE FOR THE HAYABUSA

One word    DUNLOP    208zr 200rear 170 front IF you dont believe just try and follow me on the DRAGON in April



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I was told that you have to have  specific tire due to the high speed of the bike not just a z rated ? do the m1s sound about right? also i found a site a while ago i get my tires from ,good prices, www.americanmotorcycletire.com



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Best way i can answer
Motorcycle Speed Ratings
Maximum Design/Test Speed

J Type 62 100
N Type 87 140
P Type 94 150
S Type 112 180
H Type 130 210
V Type 149 240
Z Type 149+ 240+
Tires with 2.00, 2.25 & 2.50 nominal section widths are rated for 75 mph.
Z rated is more then enough unless you ride everywhere at 240 mh
 
. ZR means Z rated for continuous speeds up to 150 mph, R for Radial construction.18 means 18" diameter rim. The speed ratings are S for up to 112 mph, H for up to 130 mph, V for up to 150 mph, Z for 150 mph+.At high speeds, the tire can get very hot and the tread can separate from the belts. The speed ratings tell you how fast you can safely go.
 
As far as the 180's go?
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?? I don't think I've seen anyone in the winners circle in the liter class bikes riding on a 180 rear. Most all the really fast guys seem to think the additional traction needed for drive out of the corner is more important than the ability to turn into the corner a bit quicker? The 190 gives a bigger contact patch at any angle over the smaller 180.
Some of those race tires come in 190/55 instead of 190/50 and they are running slicks, not street tires.

We're talking street tires.

I've riden both, trust me the 180/55 are much less effort making the busa more  flickable than 190/50.  And I believe they have a bigger contact patch at FULL LEAN.

If they made a street 190/55 tire that was in the same price range, I'd be all over it. I can't wait until they do mass produce 190/55 in a street tire like powers.



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As far as the 180's go?
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?
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?? I don't think I've seen anyone in the winners circle in the liter class bikes riding on a 180 rear. Most all the really fast guys seem to think the additional traction needed for drive out of the corner is more important than the ability to turn into the corner a bit quicker? The 190 gives a bigger contact patch at any angle over the smaller 180.
Some of those race tires come in 190/55 instead of 190/50 and they are running slicks, not street tires.

We're talking street tires.

I've riden both, trust me the 180/55 are much less effort making the busa more  flickable than 190/50.  And I believe they have a bigger contact patch at FULL LEAN.

If they made a street 190/55 tire that was in the same price range, I'd be all over it.  I can't wait until they do mass produce 190/55 in a street tire like powers.
+1 because of its profile a 180/55 has a bigger contact patch in a full lean than a 190/50....in a straight line....as in a drag race launch the 190 has a better contact patch.

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Wow I have found it a bit diff. here. I like riding with the 200 rear. I usually run battle axes, now I accually tried the maxxis ultra max with kevlar inner-lays. I must say that I am very impressed with the preformance on street, mountain and long distant riding. I had no problem leaning the bike over with the tire on the rear. I dont know if the 260lbs really makes the difference on the lean but........ I'm very happy with them.
 
Ride what you like in a tire
And if you ride with any gusto what so ever they are toast in 3000-3500 miles anyways.
 
Metzeler M1 (P) spec. It is a 198 just like the factory and is made specifically for the Busa. One thing to consider is the new M3 coming out. Revlis had a write up on them here somewhere. Use the search button at the top of the page and it should pop up. Awesome tires!
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Please, Please, Please show me any proof that the Metzeler M1-P is a 198?
How about you order a set for yourself and put the old math skills to use. MEASURE IT! I did and thats what it measured out to. It also matched the factory tire width exactly, both on and off the bike.

What exactly is it you want for proof?
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Yeah, always hearing about the 198mm thing.

UNTIL someone takes one of each tire manufacturer and one of each of the 3 sizes(180/190/200) and measures all of them what is the point of pointing out that one particular tire measures 198mm  
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Because he asked if a 200 would fit on the rear, I believe 198 is close enough. Have you ever used the M1 Sportec (P) spec?
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The point in 'pointing it out' is the Hayabusa came factory with a 198 rear. Do you know better than them to recommend a better tire width?
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Have you used all the tires mentioned in your response?
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You must know that most tires are not their listed size and fall somewhere short, or long of their rounded off number right?
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You can spend your own money buying every tire out there and measure them all. I will take a great tire, at a great price and is made to replicate the factory specs, only better!
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the BT 056 J spec (factory tire) were to slick didn't like em went to the M-1 sportec they stick really well but seem to go away a bit quicker, can't wait for the M-3
 
Yeah, always hearing about the 198mm thing.

UNTIL someone takes one of each tire manufacturer and one of each of the 3 sizes(180/190/200) and measures all of them what is the point of pointing out that one particular tire measures 198mm  
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Because he asked if a 200 would fit on the rear, I believe 198 is close enough. Have you ever used the M1 Sportec (P) spec?
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The point in 'pointing it out' is the Hayabusa came factory with a 198 rear. Do you know better than them to recommend a better tire width?
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Have you used all the tires mentioned in your response?
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You must know that most tires are not their listed size and fall somewhere short, or long of their rounded off number right?
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You can spend your own money buying every tire out there and measure them all. I will take a great tire, at a great price and is made to replicate the factory specs, only better!
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Yes I have used the tire.

My point is if a 190 is 198, what is a 200??  What about other brands??  My point is the 200 probably measures out more than 200, so if someone wants a fat tire, they are still going to want a 200.

Yes, my second rear tire in Daytona was a 200.  Didn't like its cornering.   I've run many 190/50s.  And my last 2 tires have been 180/55.

Yes I know all tires probably don't measure up to the factory specs.

I never asked you to go buy all those tires.  I simply was pointing out that makes no sense to try and talk someone out of a 200 because the 190 is a 198.  Especially until someone goes and measures a 200.

What was the point of saying the 190 measures a 198, other than to say that it is just as wide as a 200?  Or is there another reason?



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. ZR means Z rated for continuous speeds up to 150 mph, R for Radial construction.18 means 18" diameter rim. The speed ratings are S for up to 112 mph, H for up to 130 mph, V for up to 150 mph, Z for 150 mph+.At high speeds, the tire can get very hot and the tread can separate from the belts. The speed ratings tell you how fast you can safely go.
Z rated is for 150 and above.
 
my heavily opinionated perspective sure to bother a few people:

DON'T bother with 'RACE' tires on the street. I can think of maybe 5 people on this website who have the ability and regularly COOK race tires up to proper heated temperatures on the street. 5. The rest of you THINK they are stickier but it's all in your head, unless you have proper tire warmers and melt tread regularly tearing up the twisties. It takes a LOT to heat-cycle race tires properly, and you probably shouldn't be driving that hard on public roads of various degrees of decay.

STREET tires heat and stick better on streets than race tires, have a differnt carcus to work with bumps and crap. They REALLY ARE designed and built for different purposes. but i'm just an idiot that listens to stupid people like michelin, pirelli, many, many track racing profesionals...

flame away



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my heavily opinionated perspective sure to bother a few people:

DON'T bother with 'RACE' tires on the street.  I can think of maybe 5 people on this website who have the ability and regularly COOK race tires up to proper heated temperatures on the street.  5.  The rest of you THINK they are stickier but it's all in your head, unless you have proper tire warmers and melt tread regularly tearing up the twisties.  It takes a LOT to heat-cycle race tires properly, and you probably shouldn't be driving that hard on public roads of various degrees of decay.

STREET tires heat and stick better on streets than race tires, have a differnt carcus to work with bumps and crap.  They REALLY ARE designed and built for different purposes.  but i'm just an idiot that listens to stupid people like michelin, pirelli, many, many track racing profesionals...

flame away
You're also one of those Christians which I've heard means you believe everything your told and can't think for yourself.
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Don't know nothing 'bout nothin'. Alls I know is I keep burnin' off a lot of them.

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/flameoff

You are 100% absolutely correct.
Street tires run sticky around 90-100F

Race slicks have very little traction until warmed up to 120F, which is why you see the tire warmers at the track.

Please don't make my mistake and take a 45 degree lean at 15 mph on a cold tire, or you will be buying a new shifter too.

I've read that you need to run between 2-3 miles to get the tire up to it's proper operating temp. before it can handle larger forces.

My numbers are probably off...I'll toss a pyrometer on the back tire tomorrow.
 
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