Blown Head Gasket

[CWCobra]

I have a Mustang that exhibits the same overheating symptoms if not burped correctly. Very easy thing to miss if not well-acquainted with it. Do not assume shop guys are well-acquainted with anything.

CW

 

[Mr Bogus]

I have a Mustang that exhibits the same overheating symptoms if not burped correctly. Very easy thing to miss if not well-acquainted with it. Do not assume shop guys are well-acquainted with anything.

CW

should have been working on the bowtie motors when they went to the reverse flow cooling systems.. we had everything from bad air locks to guys putting the wrong water pumps on the motors.. was a disaster..

 

[hooken203]

You said it over heated 3 timess. So it is possible that it has a head gasket problem. Aluminum engines dont take over heating very well. When I am trying to find a head gasket leak that is putting pressure into the cooling system here is what I do. Make sure the cooling system is full and the engine is cold as in hasnt ran over night. With the radiator cap on start and run it about 20 -45 seconds no more than that then remove radiator cap if there is pressure at the cap then there a good possibility that there is a head gasket leak. You must get the external leak found and repaired for this to work. You didnt say if the fan runs when it gets hot. Does it?

 

[ThrlSkr]

You said it over heated 3 timess. So it is possible that it has a head gasket problem. Aluminum engines dont take over heating very well. When I am trying to find a head gasket leak that is putting pressure into the cooling system here is what I do. Make sure the cooling system is full and the engine is cold as in hasnt ran over night. With the radiator cap on start and run it about 20 -45 seconds no more than that then remove radiator cap if there is pressure at the cap then there a good possibility that there is a head gasket leak. You must get the external leak found and repaired for this to work. You didnt say if the fan runs when it gets hot. Does it?

Yes it has, but I am talking for 5 -10 minutes in duration in the dead of summer in stop/go traffic. No overflow, just needle at the redline. Each occurence was approx a year apart. The last time was after I dropped it. If the needle went up to the redline, I would whiteline until it dropped to normal.

The fan does run when it gets hot.

 

[Mr Bogus]

if it was a headgasket, it would be overheating every time you rode it (combustion side leak).. you still need to find the origin of the stuff hitting the ground first..

It is starting to sound more like an air lock (tipped over part)

The one thing about a cooling system pressure tester, a guy that is "used to using it" can tell you if there are any large air locks in the system the first time he hits the pump.. (air compresses, coolant does not) Running the motor while using the pressure tester can actually remove the air lock (squishes it down and the coolant carries it away)

 

[ike]

PM sent

 

[kjcili]

should have been working on the bowtie motors when they went to the reverse flow cooling systems.. we had everything from bad air locks to guys putting the wrong water pumps on the motors.. was a disaster..

+1......i too remember those. what a frickin nightmare!!!!!

 

[ThrlSkr]

Ok everyone heres the deal . . .

The shop flushed my system and checked out my bike today. THey tell me the problem is not a bubble in the system, but that my radiator is bad.

If I can remember correctly what they said, the seal is faulty, so that it does not maintain enough pressure to keep coolant in the system.

As for the subject of the other shop, they just shook their head at the thought of me blowing a gasket. Also told me tht the other shop could not have done any troubleshooting with Suzuki because they are not an authorized dealer.

They are going to order a radiator for me, though I am just noticing that I can get one WAY cheaper through Ron Ayers or even Ebay . . . hopefully I can cancel that order tomorrow am.

Thanks again all of you for your input. Will get some pics out once I get her back on the road.

 

[ike]

Cool.

 

[Mr Bogus]

very good... found the leak then...

 

[4 time busa owner]

I'm not a technician but wouldn't the coolant mix with the oil if the gasket was shot? If thats the case, just look at the oil and see if its changed to a milky type substance.

It could also leak directly into the cylinder without getting into the oil passages, but that should be noticeable in the exhaust or at least with a couple rev ups you will see black water spots hitting the driveway.

 

[Spudley]

Turns out, the second opinion (second shop) is that he needs a new radiator.........I think all he needs is a new cap, but hey, whatever calms the cooling system down, and gets him back out there !!!!

Our boy is back in action....sure hope he sticks around !!! :oldcool:

 

[ThrlSkr]

Turns out, the second opinion (second shop) is that he needs a new radiator.........I think all he needs is a new cap, but hey, whatever calms the cooling system down, and gets him back out there !!!!

Our boy is back in action....sure hope he sticks around !!! :oldcool:

I did get a new cap a little over a month ago. I asked them to burp the system and they claim they did and there is no issue there.

This will no longer be an issue after I get it back because I dont plan on letting anyone else touch my bike . . .

Thanks to you and everyone else here for your input and assistance.

Dont worry, I'm not going anywhere

 

[Mr Bogus]

It could also leak directly into the cylinder without getting into the oil passages, but that should be noticeable in the exhaust or at least with a couple rev ups you will see black water spots hitting the driveway.

precisely.. in many cases however you will have the sweet smell of burned coolant out the tail pipe (very distinct) and also a plug check will usually show a spark plug in the same hole that looks spotless new while the others show some carbon build up (coolant makes a great decarbonizer)

Another tell is on start up.. if the motor turns hard as one cylinder comes up on TDC (you hear the engine rpm drop during cranking) that can indicate a fluid build up in the cylinder during the shut down period (raises compression up to the point of hydraulic lockup)

Is the point of having a good shop you can trust, so much that "could" be wrong and hunting problems like this over the phone is nearly impossible much less the net... can not tell you how many calls over the years go with "do you want to hear it over the phone?"

Other point is that diagnosis at most any "good" shop is not going to be free. Expect at least an hours labor for anything outside a typical "looksy" The guys are experts (well supposed to be) and the money is well spent. My shops always included the diagnosis WITH the repair if you had it fixed by us..

Only bad part seems to be the lack of competent technicians in the motorcycle repair industry.. I see more horror stories here than in the car industry.. Moral? Take good care of your mechanic if you find one

 

[GMbusa]

Make sure to get the old radiator back. Then take it to a radiator shop and have them test it. Sometimes those radiator shops can repair them easily and cheaply. Which would give you a backup radiator in the event of a wreck or something.

 

[Mr Bogus]

Make sure to get the old radiator back. Then take it to a radiator shop and have them test it. Sometimes those radiator shops can repair them easily and cheaply. Which would give you a backup radiator in the event of a wreck or something.

any approved methods from GM for aluminum rad repairs?

 

[ThrlSkr]

FYI Everyone. Got a new Radiator/Cap and am back on the road!!!

Thanks again for all the support and advice!

 

[DropBusa]

sweet!!!

 

[tinmann840]

I lo9ve a happy ending.

 

[ThrlSkr]

Yeah me too. Just got to go after the original shop and try to get my $$ back . .