Brakes and other maintenance
- Thread starter GAmedic
- Start date
I ride agressively.
I broke 4 teeth off one Vortex aluminum
rear sprocket, and 8 off the next.
I then switched back to steel.
I also ran +3(46t), and it really improves low and midrange grunt, and still has a 175mph+ top end.
With an ecu flash, with more lower rpm timing and better stp opening rates, the Busa is a different bike.
I broke 4 teeth off one Vortex aluminum
rear sprocket, and 8 off the next.
I then switched back to steel.
I also ran +3(46t), and it really improves low and midrange grunt, and still has a 175mph+ top end.
With an ecu flash, with more lower rpm timing and better stp opening rates, the Busa is a different bike.
wheelies caused mine, hard jolt of acceleration. too much torque for aluminum.
This too! Just don’t get the Bking’s master cylinder. That thing won’t at all, unless you have and LSL handlebar conversion kit like C10 does. Don’t ask me how I Know.
SSGT_B
Registered
I’ve ran vortex front and rear on my 1000rr and never had problems. Always a steel front. Supersprox is good as well. When I worked for Cycle Gear a few years back, I never had any complaints that I heard of with the vortex fwiw. If your hard on the bike however, I would do steel front and rear.
I am lucky the subject about alluminum spockets came up! Lucky to have read it! Wow, that could be dangerous, but makes total sense. My dumb azz could have easily ordered alluminum! My liter bikes have alluminum, i'd have never thought about it. I used to think factories installed steel sprokets to cut cost. Duh! Someone should pass this around.
I dont doubt it, but dude my girlfriend's bike is a CBR1000rr, we'r talking bout tinfoil on busas. It scares me, cuz i might have tried it
Me too, but we are heavy and these are the first 190 hp bikes i have had.
Go check your sprocket dude! This may be your sign.
ItsDooomz
Registered
If your eating sprockets, you chain is out of alignment or tight/loose. With a steel rear sprocket you may not chew up teath form poor alignment or tension issues but it puts the stress on the chain. That's what causes tight spots. Pick your poison, new chain or new sprocket. I prefer to just keep the chain alignment and tensionin in check with the proper tools. No eyeballing or tape measures.
As far as high horsepower and Vortex sprockets. I've seen dozens of 600, 700, 800+ HP bikes go straight down the groove many times. In fact, I've never seen a stupid fast street tire bike with a steel sprocket that I can remember.
630 chain Pro Mods and Top Fuel bikes are a different animal entirely....
As far as high horsepower and Vortex sprockets. I've seen dozens of 600, 700, 800+ HP bikes go straight down the groove many times. In fact, I've never seen a stupid fast street tire bike with a steel sprocket that I can remember.
630 chain Pro Mods and Top Fuel bikes are a different animal entirely....
Always run an aluminum rear sprocket , that's why I bought BST wheels , to shed weight . As mentioned , a maintained lubed and tentioned chain is fine with Vortex , Afam etc. , and as Dooomz posted , street ridden 190 hp is well within the strength parameters . Also as mentioned , Supersprox is a good choice if you want even better tooth life span . But if like Sixpack , and you are running shorter gearing , and snap it up on a wheelie often , then you maybe want to keep all steel . Ain't many riding hard enough to worry on the street .
Aluminum sprockets are more expensive , so I'm thinking that would be the real concern , but also lots of two up riding , with both passenger and rider on the heavy side may also tip the choice to steel for longevity .
Aluminum sprockets are more expensive , so I'm thinking that would be the real concern , but also lots of two up riding , with both passenger and rider on the heavy side may also tip the choice to steel for longevity .
Gas it hard in first or second , in a rare emergency , getting out of somethings way in a hurry , and you may find yourself pulling a wheelie . Don't worry tho , a nice power wheelie from a standard bird usually only means a 6" ish to 12" max loft . The bike has this behavior well within its repertoire , and is always composed , unlike some pilots .
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