BREAKIN period
- Thread starter Lovespeed
- Start date
Well I thought I broke her in nicely as specified in the book. I do remember doing short quick bursts of speed with rapid deceleration within the first hundred miles or so. Long story short... I use NO oil between changes. SO my money is on the take it to 7 grand in first and second and third a few times then ride her easy for a bit then repeat up to 100 miles. swap out the oil and have a nice day. One of the most important things to remember is to vary the rpm's while cruising. To this day I never stay at the same rpm for more than a few minutes at a time.
Break it in hard, but don't abuse it. In other words don't try to hit 186MPH after 30 miles, but you can get it up to around 8000RPM. Just don't hold it there too long. Remember, you're trying to break in every gear as well as the engine itself.
I broke mine in like manual said under 5500 rpms for 500 miles(uh um it saw 9k-10k couple of times couldn't help it, and you will too haha) but the break it in like you are gonna ride it does make alot of since.
G
Guest
I rode mine in the twisties with minimal straight line riding for the first 650 miles. Alternating rpm's, lots of shifting, etc. i figured it was the best way.
that way it was easy to keep it under 5500 rpm for that first 500 or so.
busa_boy_69
Registered
+1 on this one. I have heard this debate a few times myself and to each his own but I back this method myself. When I did mine I did it by the book. I mean doing the "hard" break in method may work and might make the engine feel stronger but is it gonna make a noticeable difference compared to a break in done by the book......I highly doubt it. My bike screams and I take it to redline quite often and it does not lag on me at all. Also when I took my bike in for it's first valve adjustment the head of the service department told me he had never seen a busa's valves so perfect on a busa. They were DEAD ON Zuks specifications at 13,000 miles and everything in the motor was sealed up properly. So knowing that the next bike I get will be broke in the same way. I think that the hard break in when the motor gets some high mileage on it will produce trouble but thats just my thinking. I mean like u said if the Zuk engineers that MADE and DESIGNED this motor say to do this I am apt to believe they know what they are talking about. And as good as my motor has done off of it I am gonna stick to it
Lota Fun R
Registered
Decelerating hard or for extended periods is actually bad for trying to seat rings, it promotes blow by, you want to increase cylinder pressure. On the SRT (turbo), they recommend you hammer it to seat rings. That is a factory recommendation!
If a dealer/service manager tells you your bike is the best he's ever seen, don't ya think he might be strokin you a bit? Check your valve cover, I'll bet it didn't even come off.
The Busa generally doesn't need much attention paid to the valves. My 00 had 45k on it before it's demise and it didn't need the valves adjusted alot, most of the time they were in spec and checking them was a waste of time, only gave me piece of mind.
If a dealer/service manager tells you your bike is the best he's ever seen, don't ya think he might be strokin you a bit? Check your valve cover, I'll bet it didn't even come off.
The Busa generally doesn't need much attention paid to the valves. My 00 had 45k on it before it's demise and it didn't need the valves adjusted alot, most of the time they were in spec and checking them was a waste of time, only gave me piece of mind.
As far as the engineer part I think it is more manufacturer CYA than a technical study. I have worked with engineers for years and that surely doesn't give me any comfort. They all have their own opinion and then spew a lot of crap to back their point. 3k to 5k rpms with a lot of accel and decel for 20 minutes. Let it cool down for 20 min. Ride again for 20 mins with 1/4 to 1/2 throttle accel and hard decel to seat the rings (5k to 7k rpm) and then let it cool down. You are heat cycling the engine because it will have some hot spots. Change the oil (should be around 50 miles or so). Ride varying your rpms with a lot of accel and decel going up to 9k accel as you want. Just don't lug the engine at all. Change your oil at 500 miles. Work toward redline briefly. Change to synthetic oil at 1500 miles.
that's too funny, Jesus did the robot too
dudewizr
Registered
Suzukis full of it and i don't mean oil. After 3 2500 mile oil changes I have yet to be even 1/4 a quart low.
drive it like you stole it !!!!!!!!!!!
the busa is ready to run right out of the showroom !
its up to you , i prefer to break things in how i am going to use them . if its gonna be a cruiser then follow the manufactures breakin , if your gonna ride it , drive it like you stole it !!!!!!!!!
the busa is ready to run right out of the showroom !
its up to you , i prefer to break things in how i am going to use them . if its gonna be a cruiser then follow the manufactures breakin , if your gonna ride it , drive it like you stole it !!!!!!!!!
Relsek
Registered
I was wondering if I was the only one that caught that?that's too funny, Jesus did the robot too
Load it (hammer it), shift to upper gears to let the engine cool slightly then hammer it again.
I've always broke my stuff in like this even before I knew what was going on. Break it in like you're going to ride it.[/QUOTE]
And then you write:
My 00 had 45k on it before it's demise[/QUOTE]
45,000 before its demise eh? I guess that speaks volumes right there for the motoman break in.
I'll continue to restrain myself for the first 1000 miles on any new vehicle by breaking it in properly and get 100K+ out of it.
I've always broke my stuff in like this even before I knew what was going on. Break it in like you're going to ride it.[/QUOTE]
And then you write:
My 00 had 45k on it before it's demise[/QUOTE]
45,000 before its demise eh? I guess that speaks volumes right there for the motoman break in.
I'll continue to restrain myself for the first 1000 miles on any new vehicle by breaking it in properly and get 100K+ out of it.
wildbill1300
Registered
with 29 miles on my busa i ran up to 180 and kept running it hard and i am at 27k with no problems. these bikes come out of the crate ready to go you just need to scuff the tires. it will run like it is broke in so if you want a slow bike follow the manual.
And then you write:
My 00 had 45k on it before it's demise[/QUOTE]
45,000 before its demise eh? I guess that speaks volumes right there for the motoman break in.
I'll continue to restrain myself for the first 1000 miles on any new vehicle by breaking it in properly and get 100K+ out of it.[/QUOTE]
Isn't that assuming that his Busa's engine gave up the ghost? It might've been wrecked. Not to provoke anything, but I've broken in six bikes (four honda, two Busas) with the 'get to operating temp then ride it hard' method with no problems (mechanical, burning oil, etc)
Blaze
Registered
Isn't it interesting that Suzuki brought a bike with 182 miles on it for the grudge match. http://www.suzukishowcase.com/street/grudge/index.html Look on page 2 under Round 3. I don't think this Busa was broken in by the book!!!
Blaze
Registered
Sorry, copy and paste this link:
http://www.suzukishowcase.com/street/grudge/index.html
http://www.suzukishowcase.com/street/grudge/index.html
Please cite a reliable source that proves a bike broken in hard has more power than one that was broken in according to the manual.
I want to see dyno and compression results of multiple same make and model year bikes after break in process...not "it feels faster" or "this magazine article said so, so it must be true".
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