BREAKIN period

[Lota Fun R]

Load it (hammer it), shift to upper gears to let the engine cool slightly then hammer it again.
I've always broke my stuff in like this even before I knew what was going on. Break it in like you're going to ride it.

And then you write:


My 00 had 45k on it before it's demise[/QUOTE]


45,000 before its demise eh? I guess that speaks volumes right there for the motoman break in.

I'll continue to restrain myself for the first 1000 miles on any new vehicle by breaking it in properly and get 100K+ out of it.[/QUOTE]
It got wrapped around a pole.

Wasn't my fault.

 

[Lota Fun R]

with 29 miles on my busa i ran up to 180 and kept running it hard and i am at 27k with no problems. these bikes come out of the crate ready to go you just need to scuff the tires. it will run like it is broke in so if you want a slow bike follow the manual.

Please cite a reliable source that proves a bike broken in hard has more power than one that was broken in according to the manual.

I want to see dyno and compression results of multiple same make and model year bikes after break in process...not "it feels faster" or "this magazine article said so, so it must be true".

My 00 had a D&D full system (not known for big HP #s), BMC, PC2, small box mod and put out 167 on the last dyno run it did. It made more but I never had it back on a dyno.

144 trap speed in the 1/4. Stock length, stock height.

You tell me.

If all you wanna do is argue, piss off.



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[Turbo-Torch]

with 29 miles on my busa i ran up to 180 and kept running it hard and i am at 27k with no problems. these bikes come out of the crate ready to go you just need to scuff the tires. it will run like it is broke in so if you want a slow bike follow the manual.

Please cite a reliable source that proves a bike broken in hard has more power than one that was broken in according to the manual.

I want to see dyno and compression results of multiple same make and model year bikes after break in process...not "it feels faster" or "this magazine article said so, so it must be true".

My 00 had a D&D full system (not known for big HP #s), BMC, PC2, small box mod and put out 167 on the last dyno run it did. It made more but I never had it back on a dyno.

144 trap speed in the 1/4. Stock length, stock height.

You tell  me.

If all you wanna do is argue, piss off.

Tell you what? That one broken in by the book wouldn't put out 167 HP with those mods?

The claims of all the extra HP by choosing a certain break in procedure is nothing but bullsh!t.

 

[Guest]

its not 100% ready to be beaten up out of the box. you can still smell the assembly lube! racers break theirs in on the dyno because they tear them apart so damn often. I wasnt planning on that, hence the by the book procedure.

 

[Lota Fun R]

motoman link --> http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

This is NOT my only source.

Read up a little.

And for you turdo torch, you tell me why you think this method is bull$hit. Not "that's what the manufacturer says". Really, some facts that you know to be true, source, etc.

You seem like you just have an axe to grind.

I've never had any problems with my method. I've seen others that went by the book have problems though.

Again, my brother and I had identical bikes, he babied his, I didn't, mine was always faster and his had problems, bottom end failed on his. This is just one real world example.

YOU give me some facts as to why my opinion is wrong.

 

[Lota Fun R]

My 00 was never apart, other than the sceduled maintenance.

Follow the book, I don't give a rats a$$.

 

[Yort]

Like I said this is one of those topics not everyone will agree on. Break varies between manufactures too. The only thing that my CBR1000 said in the manual was to bascially not redline it or hold it at one rpm for the first 300 miles thats it!



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[Turbo-Torch]

motoman link --> http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

This is NOT my only source.

Read up a little.

And for you turdo torch, you tell me why you think this method is bull$hit. Not "that's what the manufacturer says". Really, some facts that you know to be true, source, etc.

You seem like you just have an axe to grind.

I've never had any problems with my method. I've seen others that went by the book have problems though.

Again, my brother and I had identical bikes, he babied his, I didn't, mine was always faster and his had problems, bottom end failed on his. This is just one real world example.

YOU give me some facts as to why my opinion is wrong.

I told you earlier I didn't want some lame ass magazine article (hell I even mentioned motoman) and yet you posted a link to it because that's all you have.

If you can't comprehend a manufacturers recommendation as a credible source then you're a lost cause. If a bike could be safely broke in as easy as that article says, why the hell don't the manufacturers do it before sending them to the dealers? Just think, no worries on how the new owner will do it therefore NO WARRANTY CLAIMS!
Wasn't but a year ago that Yamaha was considering "pre-breaking in" new R1's because all of the idiots spinning bearings within the 1st 100 miles and I guarantee the R1 manual doesn't recommend the motoman method. Oh I know, maybe the R1's suffer from crank failures too like the ZX12?

You can break your bikes in any way you like, doesn't matter a bit to me, but don't start BS about how they magically make more HP over a standard break in.

 

[Turbo-Torch]

racers break theirs in on the dyno because they tear them apart so damn often.[/QUOTE]

EXACTLY.

 

[Lota Fun R]

TT, you are one of the few that feels that way. I posted a link so others could read it, not for you.

All you are doing is quoting manufacturers recommendations.

I asked for some info to support you position other than manufacturer. You haven't provided it.
All you want to do is put me down.

I'm done here.

 

[bigoltool]

When I was growing up my old man (aircraft airframe and powerplant mechanic) showed my brothers and I how to rebuild a lot of engines. He always taught us to break an engine in using only non-detergeant motor oil for the first 5 or 6 hundred miles and not necessarily to run the crap out of it but to constantly vary engine loading and speed during that period. This would seem to support both sides of this debate. I generally consider my Dad a pretty smart guy and this method has not failed me yet. I personally believe in changing oil often (as frequently as every 200 miles) during this break in period. I dont know about thirty miles but what the heck oil is cheap and it is pretty enlightening to see all that metal floating around in the drain pan instead of your crankcase.

 

[GIXERHP]

with 29 miles on my busa i ran up to 180 and kept running it hard and i am at 27k with no problems. these bikes come out of the crate ready to go you just need to scuff the tires. it will run like it is broke in so if you want a slow bike follow the manual.

Hell with 36 miles on mine,,,, swapped exhaust, small box mod, pc3r, pair valve removed, then Dyno tuned, to 170.5hp

 

[Lota Fun R]

Something else I remembered and will add. If you own a Busa (or any model), your engine was tested at the factory for peak HP, the dyno hp #s is included with the bike and the dealer sends it back to the factory. How do you get peak HP #s without running it up to redline, or close to it?
Suzuki runs your engine on an engine dyno before you even get it. Why would they do this if it's bad for your engine?

Sorry, just the facts.

 

[busa_boy_69]

Decelerating hard or for extended periods is actually bad for trying to seat rings, it promotes blow by, you want to increase cylinder pressure. On the SRT (turbo), they recommend you hammer it to seat rings. That is a factory recommendation!

If a dealer/service manager tells you your bike is the best he's ever seen, don't ya think he might be strokin you a bit? Check your valve cover, I'll bet it didn't even come off.
The Busa generally doesn't need much attention paid to the valves. My 00 had 45k on it before it's demise and it didn't need the valves adjusted alot, most of the time they were in spec and checking them was a waste  of time, only gave me piece of mind.

Ummm dude did u miss the part where I said the reason I had the adjustment done was because I had a bad valve cover gasket? I know the valve cover came off because they had to reseal it. Now u may be right that he might have been strokin me a little bit but I have had many services done at this dealer and the shop manager is a real straight forward guy. If he said it was done a certain way you KNOW it was. Most of the guys in my area go here from great distances specifically because of how good the service there is. Mine is getting the book method to it until I see proof otherwise.

 

[Lota Fun R]

bb69, yah, I guess I did miss that part. Great that you have a good place to take your bike. I do all my own work, ALL.

There are alot of "manual thumpers" that swear by the recommended break in, good for them, and you. There are alot of peeps that feel the same way I do. Break it in hard doesn't mean beat the $hit out of it. I like my bikes and want them to work their best for as long as possible, I just happenend to think that you should break it in how you're going to ride it. The engine has allready been checked on a dyno for peak HP, what are ya worried about.

My .98

 

[busa_boy_69]

bb69, yah, I guess I did miss that part. Great that you have a good place to take your bike. I do all my own work, ALL.

There are alot of "manual thumpers" that swear by the recommended break in, good for them, and you. There are alot of peeps that feel the same way I do. Break it in hard doesn't mean beat the $hit out of it. I like my bikes and want them to work their best for as long as possible, I just happenend to think that you should break it in how you're going to ride it. The engine has allready been checked on a dyno for peak HP, what are ya worried about.

My .98

I had talked about it on an earlier post. I wish I could do ALL my maintenance work but I am not that mechanically inclined. I do all my maintaining issues myself but when things need to be wrenched apart I gotta take it in. Thats why i bought the extended warranty. I just feel that the way that I comfortable with. I mean personally everyone has their own way of doing things. I paid 10 grand for my bike and thats the best way to protect my investment is to do what suzuki says. Just my .02

 

[Guest]

I got it! I thought about it while I was doing te brakes on my car yesterday... So if you drive your car, hard on the brakes from the get go, yea they feel a lot better than brand new pads still breaking in a lot quicker.. but they dont last as long! Go easy on the pads till they are seated against the rotor properly, and they last a helluva lt longer. Hard braking all the time will warp the rotors, but easy braking doesn't.. You guys get what im saying?