Buy gen3 or gen2?

I’d respectfully (of course) disagree. Think about two motorcycles regardless of brand or model. One has been ridden normally for 8 years and the other is fresh from a showroom.

The 8 year old bike is just not going to be as fresh or comfortable. Foam wears out so an 8 year old seat isn’t likely to be as comfortable as a new seat. Also most people don’t service their suspension so that’s another nod towards new suspension working better than 8 year old stuff that’s been serviced maybe one to three times if you’re lucky.

I’d say since you just want to cruise and enjoy a motorcycle. New is what I choose. Nobody else has touched it to screw things up and I can enjoy wearing out that new bike feeling. You can buy it and just rack up the miles as you wish.

When I purchased my Gen 3 it was $18k and a nice used one by me was $14k. If I couldn’t afford a Gen 3 I would have bought a Gen 2.

Hopefully those thoughts help. Let us know what you’re thinking and what you end up doing.
I'm not buying one...the OP is thinking of it though I suppose....perhaps you quoted the wrong person?

As far as what I said, I still stand by it as we can delve back into posts where people have bought brand new Gen 2s and were looking for pretty much the same comfort adders as people who are buying Gen 3s.......you could buy a brand new Gen 2 up to 2021 (left over stock), I saw pictures of showrooms with brand new Gen 2s sitting beside Gen 3s....

Lots and lots of posts for Gen 3s where new owners are looking for bar risers, lowered pegs and different seats...the same as Gen 2 riders did before them..
 
Hi guys, topic is completed as far as it concerns me, I followed the advice and ordered the brand new black gen3, which is staring at me in the showroom. Now I'm waiting for the T-Rex crash pads (I won't ride it before) and began studying the manual.
I will create another posting with questions after finishing the manual, but I must be thick or something, some topics I really can't understand, and being an IT guy, I won't have comments of the type RTFM, so I will go over it with a fine-tooth comb!

cheers
AK
 
Did one of my very regular 250 mile morning coffee runs.

I wasn’t trying to win races, wasn’t trying to break records, it’s a very regular loop I do back to back with my other bikes. The stock Gen-3 was certainly a “nicer” bike to do it on, smooth, quiet, comfy. I’m sure there’s places my Gen-2 would beat it but for covering distance without a drama the 3 certainly takes the win for me. I’ve actually spent more money and seat time on my Gen-2 recently, it’s a great fun toy but that doesn’t always make it a better bike.

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This is my first fancy sportbike, so I leave every option enabled. That makes me hold my coffee cup with the pinky sticking up! :D
Turn the hill hold off.

it isn’t a proper safety feature, it’s just a novelty and one of the few things Suzuki got wrong. It’s quite poor in comparison with other vehicles versions. Honestly… the bike is nicer without it.
 
Hi guys, topic is completed as far as it concerns me, I followed the advice and ordered the brand new black gen3, which is staring at me in the showroom. Now I'm waiting for the T-Rex crash pads (I won't ride it before) and began studying the manual.
I will create another posting with questions after finishing the manual, but I must be thick or something, some topics I really can't understand, and being an IT guy, I won't have comments of the type RTFM, so I will go over it with a fine-tooth comb!

cheers
AK
Have fun, I look forward to hearing you views.

Compared to previous versions it has a bit of tech but it’s very forgiving. Despite all the options A-1-1 is a good start and turn the hill-hold to OFF. There’s a lot to play with but that’s pretty much my default.

Im a bit of a Luddite but even I eventually got the hang of the menu, changing displays, changing settings.

Only little thing I dislike about all the tech and settings is you can’t change anything with the cruise control on. On my H2 on long highway sections I could view my fuel range, trip counter etc or change stuff, where as on the Gen-3 I can’t. No big deal really.
 
Have fun, I look forward to hearing you views.

Compared to previous versions it has a bit of tech but it’s very forgiving. Despite all the options A-1-1 is a good start and turn the hill-hold to OFF. There’s a lot to play with but that’s pretty much my default.

Im a bit of a Luddite but even I eventually got the hang of the menu, changing displays, changing settings.

Only little thing I dislike about all the tech and settings is you can’t change anything with the cruise control on. On my H2 on long highway sections I could view my fuel range, trip counter etc or change stuff, where as on the Gen-3 I can’t. No big deal really.
Did you mean

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as A-1-1? Regarding EB I admit having the bike breaking by closing the throttle is something very attractive for old farts like me! The hill-hold is a curiosity and when been accustomed to compensate with good old technique, yes, perhaps activating it feels queer...
 
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I've owned the Gen 2 and now have the Gen 3. My biggest issues with the Gen 2 were cornering and breaking, both of which are resolved on the Gen 3. I can throw it into a corner with confidence and the breaks are superb. The Gen 3 has more mid-range, at the expense of top end. But who runs at top end speed for very long - if at all? Where you need the power most, in the mid-range, is exactly where it is. I can't say anything negative about the Gen 3, it's hands-down a better bike than the Gen 2 in all respects. Even if you stripped it of all the electronics it would still be a far better bike.
 
I’ve owned all and have put 34K miles on my G3. It’s a much improved bike. The handling and braking are far improved. The normal speed torque is noticeable. Doesn’t feel as strong above 160 MPH, but that doesn’t seem to be an issue for you. Cruise control is out of this world. I did 4200 miles on mine in 4 days and I’m old as dirt. No complaints but I ride.
 
I've owned the Gen 2 and now have the Gen 3. My biggest issues with the Gen 2 were cornering and breaking, both of which are resolved on the Gen 3.
Cornering is a matter of technique, unless a specific bike's seat is too uncomfortable. I learned and practiced the Japanese technique with my Versys650, which, I must say, is way more difficult to lean (as most adv. bikes) compared to the CBR600RR and GSX1000R I used on the initial training. But to apply it, one must let the handlebar turn freely, once leaning the bike with the body. Just check motogymkhana videos on YT as well as Japanese police ones (with translated subtitles):
This is I was doing before training:
(with extender engine sliders mounted of course)
This is a training sample (starting to learn gymkhana corners):
I think the difference is evident ;-)
For all these, the stance if of paramount importance:
  • body leaning to the handlebar in a way to always allow shoulders' freedom (elbows 90-100 degrees to not block handlebar's movement, shoulders follow handlebar)
  • legs pushing firmly the tank
  • when braking/accelerating body resists (=> no force from hands to handlebar applied)
To take a corner one simply leans the bike, letting the handlebar automatically position itself.
To lean the bike one must use the pelvis to direct the bodyweight to the interior of the corner. This is where the abs come into function.
Only caution is the full-lock: once achieved bike will drop unless more throttle is applied.

PS the police trainee in that particular moment
applied the clutch when cornering, lost power and fell => No clutch when leant.
 
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Interestingly enough, Suzuki changed the steering geometry for the gen 2 and then again for the gen 3 and seemed to always change the mid range power on bikes they deem no longer on the cutting edge....

We saw this in all the GSX lines past and present as well as the Bandit and new Katana where they took a high revving sport bike engine and tuned it for mid range.

That being said, I think the gen 3 is a stellar bike.........these brake, hard start and QS issues it is experiencing is a bit disappointing.....but the overall package is great. People seem to want that top end power and are spending quite a bit of time and money to get it back.
 
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At some point I am going to find the time to read a book, Motorcycle Dynamics... looks complete for theory.
I took the California Superbike course and the Canadian version RACE....

In California we were given dry training by a motorcycle engineer and I recall him speaking on geometry and how it affects cornering speed.....honestly I can't remember the entire lecture as it has been so long....the words rake and trail were used a lot and he spoke on countering the gyroscopic effect.....but all we wanted to do was ride.

Then and now I still use body positioning and counter steering for cornering. When I am setting myself up for cornering, I shift my body weight and shoulders into the direction of the corner when I am in deep, I am basically shifted over so my center of mass is in line with the mirror.
 
I took the California Superbike course and the Canadian version RACE....

In California we were given dry training by a motorcycle engineer and I recall him speaking on geometry and how it affects cornering speed.....honestly I can't remember the entire lecture as it has been so long....the words rake and trail were used a lot and he spoke on countering the gyroscopic effect.....but all we wanted to do was ride.

Then and now I still use body positioning and counter steering for cornering. When I am setting myself up for cornering, I shift my body weight and shoulders into the direction of the corner when I am in deep, I am basically shifted over so my center of mass is in line with the mirror.
I only lean the bike with my body (counter-steering only for emergency avoidance - God forbid!). It works marvel at cornering speeds say 120 km/h although I do not push my luck in highways (don't like surprises) and when it matters to speed I employ projectiles (.223), not becoming one!
Don't know about closed tracks, but it is very stimulating to learn and improve, body technique (bike or martial arts) is interesting to apply and when succeeding the pleasure is huge.
 
I have to take issue with anyone that thinks they seldom counter steer, ‘only for emergency avoidance’ for example. We (all) counter steer every time we ride. Pay attention next time you’re out riding. As you enter a slow corner or just a curve even. In a right hander do you push or pull one side of the grips more than the other? A slight push on the throttle side grip lets you take the curve with ease. Or, a slight pull on the clutch side does the same. You seldom even notice that you’re doing it. Sitting still and pushing the throttle side grip actually turns the front wheel to the left. How can this be right? :laugh: But it is right. Same for left handers. Try it on an empty straight away. Slightly push one side or the other. Which way does the bike go? I find that at slower speeds I tend to push and at higher speeds I’ll pull the opposite side. The effects are the same. That’s counter steering.
 
I have to take issue with anyone that thinks they seldom counter steer, ‘only for emergency avoidance’ for example. We (all) counter steer every time we ride. Pay attention next time you’re out riding. As you enter a slow corner or just a curve even. In a right hander do you push or pull one side of the grips more than the other? A slight push on the throttle side grip lets you take the curve with ease. Or, a slight pull on the clutch side does the same. You seldom even notice that you’re doing it. Sitting still and pushing the throttle side grip actually turns the front wheel to the left. How can this be right? :laugh: But it is right. Same for left handers. Try it on an empty straight away. Slightly push one side or the other. Which way does the bike go? I find that at slower speeds I tend to push and at higher speeds I’ll pull the opposite side. The effects are the same. That’s counter steering.
Not true for me: I can enter a corner and bend the bike without even touching the handlebar, as far as the momentum is enough, this is the Japanese technique I learned. You may try out pushing your bike from behind, then by leaning it to the left or right you will force the front wheel to follow (check the instructor
).
The first lesson in the training I had was "treat the handlebar like the piano keys, do not exercise any force at it".
 
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Not true for me: I can enter a corner and bend the bike without even touching the handlebar...

Look carefully at the 34-35 second mark. He leans then has to bring the bike back up, then leans again. Doing this is inherently unstable no matter one's skills. This is nothing but playtime and should never be considered "riding." Countersteering properly one can do this same course at quite a varied speed. But he cannot do such, even with a throttle lock that could hold the throttle higher he could not keep it on the course. There is no practical use for body steering.

Just check motogymkhana videos on YT as well as Japanese police ones (with translated subtitles)

Right in the videos you posted, as this rider does an extremely aggressive slalom, watch his upper leg on the seat. He does not shift at all.
Japanese motogymkhana.png


Not only that, we are generally taught to look where we are going. This Japanese officer is in the apex of a U-turn. His head is square with his shoulders, ergo he does not even turn his head at all, like we are taught, but his performance is insanely good. Hrm...

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I doubt those high performance riders spend any time whatsoever performing that leaning "trick."


I have the Vittore Cossalter book too. Bradley's latest book, or the older volumes (only if one can find them) are also extremely cool.
 
All one has to do is watch either a superbike race or MotoGP race to see how the rider is interacting with the bike..

You can actually see the rider in the picture counter steering....

.....and these riders are at the top of the heap....

Motogp.jpg
 
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