Can a sprocket change help to beat these little 1000cc bikes?

[SoCal Blur]

Personally, I wouldn't go down any on the front sproket. It puts more stress on the chain having to go around a smaller sprocket. 1 tooth down in the front is just about the same as + 3 on the back but puts less stress on the chain.

Others may have a different opinion. What made you go with the options you selected?

 

[BeastGP]

I got it somewhere on the forum.
"The Big Red One" is running that setup on his Gen1, he said it has crazy acceleration and tops out at a true 180.
"BusaWizard" is also running the same setup on his Gen2.

 

[pack mule]

Dont underestimate the CBR... those things are FAST!!! It would be hard for an all stock gen 1 to beat a liter bike if the liter bike is in the appropriate gear... Now if they all did a 50 MPH roll-on from say 4th gear, the busa should win due to torque; however, say the Busa starts in 3rd gear and the CBR in it's power curve in 2nd gear and suddenly the Busa doesnt seem so dominate

I ride with these same bikes. All the riders including myself are approx. the same wt. about 185. Both of their bikes are pretty stock. I have no problem with the CBR but the BMW is a different story. I'm up 3 teeth in the rear, single pipe, filter and modded filter box. We are usually playing around 30 mph and up. I have trouble keeping it down in first, with + 3 in the rear. I did it to shorten the wheelbase not for acceleration.

 

[dadofthree]

So coming back to my original question.....

What do you guys think about the sprocket change that i want to do?

The change will help you in the grunt but will rob you on the top end. The Bimmer nearly matches the Busa top end. With your change the Bimmer will probably exceed your top end by 10 MPH without looking into it.

 

[dadofthree]

I got it somewhere on the forum.
"The Big Red One" is running that setup on his Gen1, he said it has crazy acceleration and tops out at a true 180.
"BusaWizard" is also running the same setup on his Gen2.

16 / 43 would leave you at 174 MPH, combined with your weight you would be lucky to hit 165

 

[oeballer50]

I went +3 in the back and it was the best thing I've ever done, way more pull off the get go ya do lose some top end but you sure get there quick

 

[shawnski]

16 / 43 would leave you at 174 MPH, combined with your weight you would be lucky to hit 165

yeah.. and it throws off your speedo too.. you think you are going alot faster..
speedohealer will solve the problem..

 

[Tiller]

I ride with these same bikes. All the riders including myself are approx. the same wt. about 185. Both of their bikes are pretty stock. I have no problem with the CBR but the BMW is a different story. I'm up 3 teeth in the rear, single pipe, filter and modded filter box. We are usually playing around 30 mph and up. I have trouble keeping it down in first, with + 3 in the rear. I did it to shorten the wheelbase not for acceleration.

Well with you +3 and the others are stock then that is to be expected.... I am referring to the OP's busa being completely stock and the liter bikes slightly modified. That is the exact reverse of your description

 

[Ron223]

I ride with these same bikes. All the riders including myself are approx. the same wt. about 185. Both of their bikes are pretty stock. I have no problem with the CBR but the BMW is a different story. I'm up 3 teeth in the rear, single pipe, filter and modded filter box. We are usually playing around 30 mph and up. I have trouble keeping it down in first, with + 3 in the rear. I did it to shorten the wheelbase not for acceleration.

Quick side question fellas... Say the OP goes +3 in the rear and as y'all have said, it becomes hard to keep the front down. I haven't had it happen yet but am sure it will.. What's the best way to safely manage that and try to do so without losing that power and acceleration it's tapping at that time? I'm probably wrong, but if I have to limit throttle or quick shift as a result wouldn't I actually be faster with the stock gearing? I know that's probably not correct but I'm just trying to understand these things. Thanks!

 

[02BusaMark]

A good rider on a stock gen 1 Busa, has the capability of out-running others on faster bikes, even on a roll-on in 2nd. Gearing will make you quicker if you can manage the throttle.

May want to consider chain length when changing sprockets- may need to add or remove a link depending on your change.

Not sure how easy it is for you to drop weight (or if you care to), but 50lbs less would make you a significantly faster rider on your bike.

 

[Loomis]

 

[pack mule]

Well with you +3 and the others are stock then that is to be expected.... I am referring to the OP's busa being completely stock and the liter bikes slightly modified. That is the exact reverse of your description

Right. But the post before mine, he said he was ordering parts that were similar to what I have. I only have stock bikes to compare to, not modified. The CBR isn't that fast compared to mine, the BMW, he walks away from me stock. Even with what he is doing, I don't think he will catch the beemer. Like someone else posted, rider makes all the difference. Plus some bikes are just faster than others of the same make and model. When people start comparing, there are just too many variables. .02

 

[shawnski]

Quick side question fellas... Say the OP goes +3 in the rear and as y'all have said, it becomes hard to keep the front down. I haven't had it happen yet but am sure it will.. What's the best way to safely manage that and try to do so without losing that power and acceleration it's tapping at that time? I'm probably wrong, but if I have to limit throttle or quick shift as a result wouldn't I actually be faster with the stock gearing? I know that's probably not correct but I'm just trying to understand these things. Thanks!

first of all i have done this the past on my 08 busa 2 up one down and on roll on if you are in second gear you won't have that problem of wheeling.. on low speed role on in first gear will be an issue..
lowering the bike and extended arm is the solution.. and if you don't want to do that practice will help but you never going to get the MAXIMUM out of the bike without wheeling..

 

[Ron223]

first of all i have done this the past on my 08 busa 2 up one down and on roll on if you are in second gear you won't have that problem of wheeling.. on low speed role on in first gear will be an issue..
lowering the bike and extended arm is the solution.. and if you don't want to do that practice will help but you never going to get the MAXIMUM out of the bike without wheeling..

Ok. And when it comes up is should I just shift through it to bring it back down? And to protect the bike from slamming back down, should I try to do so before it comes up past a certain height?

 

[pack mule]

Ok. And when it comes up is should I just shift through it to bring it back down? And to protect the bike from slamming back down, should I try to do so before it comes up past a certain height?

It shouldn't come up that high. If it comes up that high, you have already lost the race. You want to get as much of your weight over the front as you can. Lay all over that tank. You want the tire to just float above the ground driving you forward.

 

[Ron223]

It shouldn't come up that high. If it comes up that high, you have already lost the race. You want to get as much of your weight over the front as you can. Lay all over that tank. You want the tire to just float above the ground driving you forward.

So then you would just shift through it as you normally would at your desired rpm range?

 

[BeastGP]

I think I must rather get my money together and just do a stage 1 turbo kit and get it over with.
And then all the litre bikes will see is......

 

[1busa]

I have went with a 16/42 combo and the acceleration is a lot faster. Should definitely help you to reach top speed faster, like mentioned earlier it will decrease your overall top speed but you said that you arent maintaining a top speed for long so it shouldnt be an issue. You are more worried about accelerating and blowing past them initially so this will aid you in doing so. Make sure to get quality steel sprockets, if you can afford it maybe go supersprox rear and a ZZZ chain. You know that they make a quickshifter for the busa as well if you are looking to even the odds some more too There are alot of other mods to cut weight and improve performance on your busa: R1 throttle tube mod, gixer or R1 wheel swap, aftermarket wave rotors, full race exhaust brocks or Ti Force, aluminum or chro-moly swingarm, and airbox mod If alll that still isnt enough throw on a under hump Nitrous 40 shot kit and have both them bikes a distant memory in your rear view mirror

 

[Busa1166]

roll on in 2 nd what mph did you start from ??? and how many gears you redline up to?


+1 for the post above even with the weight of the riders even on the bikes the Gen 1 would a rough time... so you being the heaviest rider put's you at a big disadvantage..

Even with the bigger sprocket in the rear you may not get 'em worth a shot though when it comes time to change the sprockets. When all else fails..


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play dirty:firedevil:


wire the Nos to the headlight flash button no one uses and they will never know what him

 

[lankeeyankee]

Trade it in for a GENII and be done with it.
CBR1000's are a joke even with a +100lb rider difference on a GENII
Never ran a Beemer but I aint skered either of em.

If you cant throttle wheelie through the gears you sure arent ready for a turbo by any means.