Co2 shifter?
- Thread starter 89mustang
- Start date
jayp577
Registered
5" Bimba style air cylinder with a 2 to 2 1/2" stroke, dual inlets 1inch or 1 1/16th bore for an air cylinder, Humphrey 12 volt solenoid normally closed air valve with 1/8th inch ports. I use a paintball CO2 cylinder and regulator, but have used schedule 40 pvc pipe and caps for an air tank in the old days. You will need a momentary button or hook the solenoid to your horn. Still need airline and sharkbite style push to disconnect fittings too. This is the hardware, you are still going to need some sort of engine kill if you don't have something like a power commander that has that function.......Good luck. It can be done cheaper than the ready made up kits but they get what they charge by knowing what to include in the kits.
GNBRETT
Registered
just buy the MPS kit. why wud u want to fuk around trying to make ur own wen u can buy one ready to use.
I wud look into buying a Cycletec kill box tho cause any other kill box is gonna set off ur F1 light every time u shift which becomes very annoying or u cud cover the F1 light with tape but I thought that was kinda cheesy. but the MPS one will work just fine.
i wud buy Corolina regulators tho.
I wud look into buying a Cycletec kill box tho cause any other kill box is gonna set off ur F1 light every time u shift which becomes very annoying or u cud cover the F1 light with tape but I thought that was kinda cheesy. but the MPS one will work just fine.
i wud buy Corolina regulators tho.
GEARJAMMER
Banned
Why not just get electric only light mine turns on is my win light @ end track.
Your going get tired of pumping air every time.
Your going get tired of pumping air every time.
Pretty funny what your link goes to!
The MPS kits appear to be air, not C02 so it's really just an expensive way to buy some parts.
A 9 oz bottle of C02 will last most guys all season.
1busa
Registered
Seems over designed and expensive.
GNBRETT
Registered
lol it wasn't a link it was just MPS kit. wat exactly do you think goes inside the MPS Air bottle? air?
an AIR system is wen u have an air compressor that fills a very small tank either placed under ur seat or if u have a swingarm that allows u to pressurize it and it recharges itself wen the pressure gets low. its not accurate and the pressures are usually too low and you can't run ur air shifter and ur waste gate off it if u have a turbo.
the MPS system is a CO2 system or nitrous if u want....
Cycletek for the win!Cycle-Tek.com
GNBRETT
Registered
yea Matt no longer makes the kits. I did buy a new kill box from him a few months ago wen he decided to make a batch of em. I bought it as a spare in case I build another bike which is highly unlikely in this lifetime....Cycletek quit making them. That's what I was originally going to buy
lol it wasn't a link it was just MPS kit. wat exactly do you think goes inside the MPS Air bottle? air?
an AIR system is wen u have an air compressor that fills a very small tank either placed under ur seat or if u have a swingarm that allows u to pressurize it and it recharges itself wen the pressure gets low. its not accurate and the pressures are usually too low and you can't run ur air shifter and ur waste gate off it if u have a turbo.
the MPS system is a CO2 system or nitrous if u want....
I've run them all, so no need for the explanation. The MPS website says you can upgrade to a high pressure system but I don't see a regulator in the pics or on their site. Their kits are low pressure air, not CO2 as the OP was asking for.
It's not good to run nitrous though regulators not specifically designed for nitrous, and nitrous regulators aren't good at regulating to 150 psi.
The "MPS kits" in your posts generates a link on my computer that directs to ground effect kits for import cars. I thought that was humorous.
If you use ECU kill you don't need a switch kit, depending on how you want to set it up. If you want to use the GPS trigger you'll need a harness. If you want to use a mode select button you need a couple pieces of wire and a wire connector. I run the mode select method because it is more reliable.
If you want C02 I would recommend going to a 3AN fitting, braided line to a Carolina Cycles regulator under your hump, tee off to a low pressure gage that you place where you can see it, other side of the tee going to the solenoid, then on to the cylinder. You'll need a clevice on the bottom, and you can make your own stud for the top to mount to the bike. If you want I can send you a pic of the mount and the solenoid part number from Grainger. I don't have the cylinder part number but I know my buddy found them for something like $20 on Grainger.
Here is a kit that has most of what a person would need. Talk to Dan, he will set the kit up however you like. Great customer service.
https://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=360
https://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=360
GNBRETT
Registered
lol yea I don't know why it turned into a ricer link but I'm sure the import car was kinda funny... I've never used N20 personally but I know others who have and yes the regulator is different ur right. I hav a local Fab shop about 10 minutes from me and they have Co2 so it just easy.
my Co2 has not been without drama tho. in fact, id say its a giant PITA! but.... I simply can't live without it. bike makes too much power to hold the handlebar with ur two weakest fingers and try to pull in the clutch with ur thumb tryn to hold on as well. I guess I'm spoiled by the air shifter but I use auto shift wen goin WOT.
I did have the air compressor set up but that failed as well. the pump didn't fail but one of my solenoids did so I guess it wud hav failed either way but nonetheless more BS!!!!
and anyone I know using a bottle uses compressed Co2
