Dialing In a New Busa

[OB_ducmanic]

Add Genmar riser, Tighten fork spring preload two lines and go-
Make sure your tires are kept at 42psi-

ducmanic

 

[Guest]

I'm going to check the wheels to be sure they spin freely. There are a bunch of posts about the rear brake dragging and wearing out the pads prematurely.

Thanks for the advice guys. Except for filling the front wheel with water, I will follow your advice.

 

[Guest]

Just found another one in my notes. Make sure the longer peg feeler is on the left side (left while sitting on the bike).

Also set preload stiffer so fairing doesn't touch down in turns.

 

[Frank Adams]

Just get some miles on it now...

Then RIPP down on it! (unless you have motor plans like I did)

 

[Guest]

I actually have the bike now. Holy Sh!t.

I took Frank's advice and went over the bike fairly closely.

Check the TPS, mine was AFU. It idled rough and I almost dropped the bike when it stalled doing a right turn from stop.

The rear brake pedal wasn't set up according to owner's manual spec. I had to lower it a good inch. The book says the brake will drag if you don't set it up properly.

The chain will need tightened real soon now.




[This message has been edited by Lyle (edited 03 January 2000).]

 

[OB_valklex]

For those making comments on the suspension being too soft from the factory, it all depends on rider weight. What weight do you consider the threshold to adjust? My bike has 100 miles and I weigh 165; suspension feels crisp, but I won't be trying it on the twisties until spring. I also don't feel much sag at all when I sit on it, but I will have to measure it to make sure. Any comments?
PD My stock cans went out at 0 miles and were a christmas present for the sanitation department.
JC

 

[Frank Adams]

Valklex, What are your riding habits?

Do you want the front wheel to come up easy, ect ect?

 

[Guest]

The weather was bad last night so I spent the time doing a little dialing in.

I set the levers so that, at rest, they fall just under the second digit of my hand. I set the shifter so that when my foot is relaxed on the peg it sits just above my big toe tarsal bone, just kissing my boot. The rear brake is set 1/4 inch below my foot when at rest. You don't want to be pressing on the pedals, rather have them just close at hand. Then I went for a short spin. Properly set up, everything works better. Shifts are effortless. Clutching requires less hand strength, no hunting for the brakes etc.

No these changes are not like adding a turbo but they do make a big difference in comfort and rideability.

[This message has been edited by Lyle (edited 06 January 2000).]

 

[Frank Adams]

Lyle, If your looking for comfort and better control, then the Gen-mar handle bar risers are a must.(I love mine)

Valklex, If your that type of rider then I would start softening the susp up from the stock settings. Dampener settings are a good place to start.

Loosening up the rear shock spring(ring nuts) and the front 21mm(?) nuts under your clip-on panel make the biggest difference.

Remember to keep everything at the same amount as the other.(side to side)(clicks & lines)

 

[OB_valklex]

I'm a very conservative rider, Frank. I can only sport ride 3-4 times a year, when I go to Cloudcroft, NM., about 250 miles round trip. I cruise about 100 mph with a few blasts at high speed along the way, and I will probably use about 60% of cornering clearance on the twisties there.