DIY Akrapovic mounting?

[OB_Dirty Pete]

Animal, I also installed my own 2 months ago. No problems, but the middle pipe is not an easy fit. You've got to force it to do what you want. I can't believe you of all people would have it on backwards. Just wiggle and force.

Make sure you seal the whole pipe (except the pipe-to-can join) up with Ultra Copper or an equivalent high-heat sealer before you bolt up.

Also put a strip of shiny muffler tape along the top edge of the tail belly fairing where it comes to close to the pipe. It will blister and burn the plastic if you don't. Shove aluminum foil between the pipe and the belly fairing near the point where the rear allen screws hold it on...this is another burn/blister point.

I also strongly advise you remove your PAIR system while your header's off. Totally prevents backfiring. Very difficult to remove after the fact.

 

[OB_Animal]

Thanks DP and mm1,

It's impossible to have it on backwards due to the spring-mounts and no fairing interference problems as I've gone with the A-TECH halfcowl pieces. Have also removed entire PAIR system already and used TBR block-off plates for that.

Was able to get it mounted on the other side of the bracket with a bit more force and wriggling but had to use more force than I would have liked. Noticed that even with everything mounted and spring-secured in place there's still a lot of movement possible in the whole system. Guess I'm just not used to having a system with so many pieces and all spring-mounted?

 

[OB_Animal]

Question for those of you that have mounted or re-mounted the full Akrapovic system themselves:

Is it normal that the tip at the end of the "middle-pipe" that the silencer slides onto at the end is pointing inwards so much?

After around 1/2 year waiting on their quietest (legal) silencer and recently hearing that they still can't tell me for sure when it WILL be available, I decided to go for the 530mm length race titanium version instead (also because all the other mods I started doing back then were finally finished).

When viewed from behind, the end of the silencer is now an inch away from the rear fender and smack center below the indicator
and mounting the silencer to the OEM-bracket (and peg-holder) with the Akro supplied "thingy" is only possible on the inside of the bracket versus on the outside for the OEM silencers.

I just have the feeling that, in spite of mounting the headers and middle-pipe myself and doing my best to jiggle/juggle/whatever till everything seemed to be in the only proper way possible, I still need to work a bit more on getting that middle-pipe on better and the end-tip of it not pointing inwards so much?

Have no digital camera so can't post a pic, but if one of you can do that with silencer off and showing that end tip (that goes into the silencer) viewed from the rear, that would be just ******* great!

 

[Guest]

I fitted a full akrapovic system to my bike 2 months ago, and i havent had the problem you mention. Are you sure that you have the "middle bit" the right way up?? My silencer points slightly outwards and fits exactly onto the footpeg bracket as the original did... if yours is pointing inwards then maybe u need to take it off and try turning the middle box round the other way up. However, having said that, if the middle box was the wrong way up i would be surprised if the header pipes would line up correctly on the engine, but maybe they do.

 

[AQUADIOSMED]

MM-1 & Animal:

My busa was used by Dyno Jet to make the 1st PC-2 mapping for the Akropovic;

they were not concerned about fit, just the mapping;

when I got it home I removed all the springs and marginally loosened all the mounting bolts,

then gradually jiggled and snugged the mounting bolts,

then jiggled and observed where the oil drain bolt was;

reinstalled springs, while jiggling for "exact" location-distance from motor

being sure to get it as close to the motor as possible to get as much clearance for the "belly pan" of the fairing;

if you do this "just right", the belly pan bolt, D-P speaks of, will not hit the pipe,

or

if it does,

put a small spacer between the right hand belly pan bolt [so it does not enter the entire length, which may cause it to hit the exhaust pipe], if you do not "spacer" this one belly pan bolt

you should use some aluminium foil to protect the belly pan;

the system, as I understand it, is a "full floating system", it heats up and moves upon accelleration and road conditions,

thus, you should notice "almost all" vibrations gone!

enjoy

check on the jeff wallace sight for blocking the par system if you don't remove it.

I purposely did not "seal" the slip joints

it is my opinion that you will defeat the "full floating design" benefits, if you seal it,

the exhaust itself should "seal" it enough,

I am not sure of this approach of not sealing, as many disagree and insist on sealing???



Alan

 

[Guest]

Yeh, ure right..u cant have put it on upside down because of the springs, i should have remembered that cos i almost did it myself!! Guess it is just a case of wiggling it till its pointing the right way.

Also, I dont like to sound stupud, but...what is this PAIR thingy that i should have removed before i fitted it please? Do i need to take it all off again and take this thing off?..sure hope not.

 

[Guest]

Alan,

I have to agree, I didnt seal my exhaust and i have had no probs at all. I was advised by the suppliers that it was self sealing by carbon deposits. I can confirm also that since fitting it the vibes have reduced by 1/2..and the bike feels so much lighter too when im getting it out of the garage!

But...still dont know what the PAIR thing is that i should have removed before fitting it?...(feeling a bit stupid at this point!)

 

[AQUADIOSMED]

mm1:

I did not install my Akropovic,

Dyno-Jet would not allow me to "watch",

I can't advise,

but Jeff Wallace webb page has pictures of the "par" vacum line, under the gas tank,

just block this and leave everything in place is the easiest!

that's the way mine was done and I have had no problems;

Alan

 

[Guest]

MM1,
PAIR valve is the chunck of metal you hit your knuckles on when changing the oil filter. It is right beside filter with 2 rubber hoses, 1 to air box-1 to throttle body, and 4 metal lines each going to an exhaust port. I had not thought to much about removing mine till I decided the only thing it was good for was nicking my fingers at oil changes. Hope this helps you find it. You can see it thru lower fairing opening. Jack